
▲视频来源:二更

北京后海,大小胡同纵横交织,也许只有从小混东城、混西城的人,才能在这迷宫般的地段来去自如罢。坐上人力面包车,转入大翔凤胡同,有一座四合院在此深藏,这里便是梅府家宴的所在,除了黑色大门上的梅府家宴字样,这里和平常民居再无差别。
Houhai, crisscrossed with numerous Hutongs, only the people who have been hanging around from Dongcheng District to Xicheng District of Beijing from their early ages are able to easily find the ways. Sit on a cycle rickshaw and turn into the Daxiangfeng Hutong you will see a Siheyuan deep in there, where is the location of Meifujiayan, which used to be Mei Lanfang’ house, and now it’s a restaurant that keeps the same style as before.

200多年前,这里还是清朝一个贝勒爷侧福晋的私宅。如今,慕名而来的人则是为了感受京剧大师梅兰芳先生的艺术魅力和养生之道。在这里,老板叫“东家”,经理叫“总管”。而梅府家宴则是严格按照梅兰芳之前的家宴菜肴定制每一桌餐点,厨师长孙振良则是梅兰芳家厨王寿山先生的第四代弟子。
200 years ago, this was a private house of a certain Royal Highness’ wife. Today, people come for the artistic fame of Mei Lanfang and his way of keeping fit. Here we call the boss as “Dong Jia” and the manager as “Zong Guan”. And the food of Meifujiayan Restaurant strictly follows the matches of the former ones, and Chef Sun Zhenliang is the fourth generation disciple of Wang Shoushan who used to be the Mei’s chef.


基于梅兰芳先生的职业,梅府的菜有三大特色,一要保护嗓子,二要滋润皮肤,三要维持体型。因此,梅府的菜肴极其讲究淡雅、精致、低脂、低糖、低盐,拒绝麻辣等刺激性菜肴。
Becaese of the occupation of Mr. Mei, the dishes are featured as protecting the thraot, nourishing the skins, and keeping figures. Therefore, the dishes of Mei’s Restaurant have to be delicate with low calories, sugar, and salt.


在梅府,没有菜单,像在家里吃饭一样。每到一个节气,梅府便会挂上相应的节气牌,这个季节有什么,厨师长便会根据季节和时令安排菜肴。作为纪念梅府会有专聘的书法老师,将当日菜单用毛笔书写在红色的宣纸或印有梅兰芳先生手绘梅花的折扇上送给客人。
There’s no list which is like eating at home. Different solar terms have different dishes, and there will be a card of the solar term, which will be the reference of dishes. There will be a special-invited calligrapher to write the names of the dishes on the Chinese folding fans for the guests as souvenirs.

每个人的心中,都有一个独自珍藏的梅兰芳。大师的气度、修养、内涵和醉人的身段唱腔令无数人倾倒。《游园惊梦》里可爱偏执的杜丽娘,《洛神》中倾倒众生的“男洛神”……
Every one treasures Mei Lanfang in his own way. The temper, culture, personality and the artistic attainment are all overwhelming such as the paranoid but lovely Du Liniang in the Peony Pavilionand and the charming “ God Luo” in the historic legendary Luo Shen......

在梅府曲径通幽的四合院里,四面八方都恍若诉说着恬静。房间里梅兰芳先生的照片,留声机里播放的《游园惊梦》,再尝一尝梅先生家厨一代代传下来的菜品,就像做客梅府一样,在这炎炎夏日,吃口小菜听首曲,正契合了那句“纱厨如舞,簟纹如水,别有生凉处”。
The secluded Siheyuan seems to express the peace and quietness of its own. Inside the room there are the pictures of Mei Lanfang and sound of the Peony Pavilionand from the gramophone, and if you were to taste its special dishes, it would feel like being a guest of Mr. Mei. In such a sizzling summer to eat the smooth dishes with fine music just fits the poetry “the window screening is dancing, and the texture of summer mat is flowing, where there comes a nameless refreshment”.

撰稿:心尘 译者:尚小桦



