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迪奥新品被质疑“抄袭中国马面裙”，售价2.9万元，中国官网已下架

中国日报双语新闻

2022-07-19

近日，网友发现迪奥官网一件售价高达29,000人民币的半身裙“撞款”中国传统服饰马面裙，“迪奥抄袭”相关话题也因此冲上热搜。

French fashion brand Dior encountered controversy on Chinese social media platforms as some Hanfu lovers accused the brand of copycatting the design of traditional Chinese horse face skirt in its fall 2022 collection without clarifying the source of inspiration.

宏观来看，类似的参考在时尚圈较为常见，迪奥历史上的多位设计师也曾对中国元素有过借鉴。不过大部分网友指出，其问题在于，迪奥官网在涉事服饰的产品说明中称：这款半裙采用标志性的Dior廓形，是一款全新的优雅时尚的单品。

On the official website of Dior, the brand said the controversial mid-length skirt is "a hallmark Dior silhouette" in the description, which contains no content that indicates the skirt has anything to do with Chinese traditional clothes or culture.

图源：迪奥官网

而所谓的“Dior廓形”，与华服马面裙非常相似，很多细节都有雷同。许多汉服爱好者表示：借鉴可以，但把借鉴的说成自己的，不行。

Hanfu lovers highlighted that they deemed Dior's new collection as a copycat as it had high split on the front and back, folds on both sides as well as the design in the waist, which are all typical elements of a horse face skirt, while Dior insisted it was an original design.

图源：新浪微博

许多网友认为，迪奥作为国际大品牌，在世界上拥有很大的影响力。如果它向其国际客户介绍该款裙为自家的“原创”，那么对于那些不熟悉中国文化的人来说，中国马面裙的设计反而可能沦为“抄袭”。

A major concern of some Hanfu lovers is that, given Dior's global influence, its global consumers take it as a Dior original, Chinese horse face skirt would instead to be taken as a "copycat" by some people who are not familiar with Chinese culture, which is confusing.

此外，还有网友认为迪奥的做法存在“文化挪用”之嫌。

文化挪用（cultural appropriation）一般指强势文化群体在误解、不尊重弱势文化的前提下使用或侵占弱势文化的现象。

Cultural appropriation

文化挪用

Cultural appropriation is the adoption of certain elements from another culture without the consent of people who belong to that culture.

文化挪用指的是未经同意直接使用不属于自身文化的某些要素。

It harms cultures when a prevailing culture adopts things from a different culture without interpreting them, or manipulates them in ways that contradict the origins, and substitutes the dominant culture's idea of what the other culture is like.

若主流文化未经解释便使用其它民族文化的内容，或违背该文化原始含义，并用主流文化思想取代另一文化原本思想，都会对该文化造成伤害。

也有部分网友认为这件事的性质属于“文化交流”，而非“抄袭”或“文化挪用”。对文化交流应该抱着开放的态度。

Some others take the issue as "cultural exchanging" rather than copycatting. They said that the issue is a lesson Chinese people should learn from so that in the future we would invest more to promote our own culture.

迪奥官网现已无法搜索到上述半身裙。客服对此的回应是，“非常抱歉，目前官网暂无查询到相关信息。” 不过在迪奥国外官网上，仍然能搜索到该款半身裙。可以看见，产品描述一栏没有修改，也并未提及任何中国传统文化相关的内容。

This skirt can still be seen on Dior's official website without any alternations of its description, while it has disappeared off the official Chinese website. Dior has not made any response to the controversy.

什么是“马面裙”？

马面裙又名“马面褶裙”，是中国古代女子主要裙装款式之一，前后里外共有四个裙门，两两重合，俗称“马面”。

Horse face skirt, ma mian qun in Chinese, is a kind of traditional Chinese clothes that has folds on both sides. It has four skirt doors on the front and back overlapping each other. And the overlapping part of the skirt doors is called ma mian (horse face).

图源：共青团中央

据史料记载，马面裙最早可以追溯到宋代，明清时期最为流行，上至皇宫贵族，下至普通人家。地位不同，场合不同，马面裙的形制也有所不同。

The skirt was very popular in the Ming Dynasty from empress to ordinary people. According to different classes and occasions, the material, pattern, and color of horse face skirts are different.

譬如这幅《明宪宗元宵行乐图》，画中的女子基本都身穿马面裙。