Hangzhou celebrates Belgian designer Martin Margiela’s career with an exceptional exhibition.
The exhibition “Martin Margiela 1989 – 2009 The Women’s Collections” is the first comprehensive exhibition about Martin Margiela in Asia and is on view till 1 February, 2026 at OōEli Space (Building No.6) of the OōEli campus in Hangzhou, China.
杭州举办特别展览，致敬比利时设计师马丁·马吉拉的职业生涯。
Mr. Pascal BUFFIN, Consul General of Belgium, proudly opened the exhibition with his colleague Mr. Joan VALADOU, Consul General of France, Ms. Lin LI, founder of the museum By Art Matters, and representatives of the Palais Galliera as well as the authorities of the city of Hangzhou and the district of Tianmuli.
Mr. BUFFIN thanked Ms. Lin LI for the initiative and commended the collaboration that led to the beautiful exhibition on one of the most influential fashion designers of our times as well as one of the pioneers of the Belgian fashion. He praised the work done by Mr. Alexandre SAMSON, Curator of the exhibition, and Mrs. Ania MARTCHENKO, Scenographer of the exhibition.
比利时驻上海总领事Pascal BUFFIN先生与法国驻上海总领事Joan VALADOU先生、天目里美术馆创始人李琳女士、巴黎时尚博物馆代表以及杭州市天目里区政府官员共同为展览揭幕。
BUFFIN先生对李琳女士的倡议表示感谢，并赞扬此次合作促成了这场精彩展览——它聚焦当代最具影响力的时装设计师之一，同时也是比利时时尚界的先驱者。他特别称赞了展览策展人Alexandre SAMSON先生与布景设计师Ania MARTCHENKO女士的卓越工作。
This landmark show presents more than 130 silhouettes, videos of runway shows, fashion archives, and specially conceived installations and traces his career from Spring–Summer 1989 to Spring–Summer 2009, showcasing the work of a designer who not only questioned the structure of garments but also challenged the structure of the fashion system.
“MARTIN MARGIELA 1989 – 2009 THE WOMEN’S COLLECTIONS” offers an unprecedented survey of one of the most influential and enigmatic contemporary fashion designers.
这场里程碑式的展览呈现逾130套造型设计、T台秀影像、时装档案及独具匠心的装置艺术，追溯其从1989春夏系列至2009春夏系列的设计历程，展现这位设计师不仅重新审视服装的构造，更颠覆了时尚产业的运作模式。
《马丁·马吉拉1989-2009女装系列》以史无前例的视角，全面呈现这位当代最具影响力且充满神秘色彩的时装设计师的创作历程。
Martin Margiela (b. Louvain, Belgium in 1957) graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, in 1980. After a stint as Jean Paul Gaultier’s assistant between 1984 and 1987, he became associated with the Antwerp school and he founded his own fashion house.
Still a major creative reference worldwide, Margiela’s conceptual approach challenged the fashion aesthetics of his time. He constructed garments by deconstructing them—exposing linings, unfinished seams, and the stages of manufacture: pleats, shoulder pads, patterns, muslins, and bastings or shoulder pads. He pushed proportions to extremes, enlarging garments with his “Oversize Collections” or adapting dolls’ clothes for life-size wear. He printed trompe-l’oeil photos of dresses, sweaters, and coats, and introduced the “cloven” shoe inspired by traditional Japanese tabi. Margiela also questioned the obsolescence of clothing. His “Artisanal” collection repurposed garments and recovered materials into unique, hand-sewn pieces. The “Replica” series faithfully reproduced vintage clothing sourced from around the world.
马丁·马吉拉（1957年生于比利时鲁汶）1980年毕业于安特卫普皇家艺术学院时装系。1984至1987年间担任法国传奇时装设计师Jean Paul Gaultier助理后，他投身安特卫普时装学派并创立个人时装品牌。
作为全球时尚界的举足轻重的创意标杆，马吉拉以其前瞻性的理念颠覆了当代时尚审美。他以解构之态重塑服装——展现衬里、未收边的缝线，甚至将制作流程中的褶裥、垫肩、裁片、坯布和假缝等环节一览无遗地呈现。他将比例运用得淋漓尽致，或以“Oversize”系列展现夸张的放大感，或将玩偶服饰等比放大成可供真人穿着的尺码。他设计了印有连衣裙、毛衣和外套错视画效果的作品，并推出了源自日本传统足袋的“分趾鞋”。马吉拉更反思了服装的过时性——“Artisanal”高级定制系列为旧衣和回收材质赋予新生，打造出一件件独一无二的手工臻品，而“Replica”系列则忠实还原了他从世界各地搜罗来的复古服饰。
A designer without a public face, Margiela eschewed interviews, used a plain white label without a brand name, and embraced white in countless shades. His shows unfolded in unexpected spaces—car park, warehouse, metro station etc.
Pioneering in vision and uncompromising in execution, Martin Margiela shaped a new language of fashion that continues to resonate with designers today. His radical ideas opened new paths for experimentation, influencing generations who followed.
Margiela’s legacy endures not only in the ideas he championed, but in the extraordinary precision with which he brought them to life.
作为一位不公开露面的设计师，马吉拉谢绝一切采访，以无品牌名的纯白标签代表自己——且对各种深浅不一的白色情有独钟。他的时装秀总在出人意料的空间举行——停车场、仓库、地铁站等。
马丁·马吉拉凭借其开创性的远见卓识和绝不妥协的创作态度，构建了独树一帜的时尚语汇，时至今日依然能引发众多设计师的深刻共鸣。他颠覆性的思想为时尚探索开辟了新途径，启迪了后世无数追随者。
Not to be missed !
不容错过!