文本作者：克里斯托夫·维尔茨
TEXT by Christoph Wirtz
精致的美食
Delicacy
放于温热的手背上：这是品尝鱼子酱的经典吃法
Put on the warm handback: it’s the hygienic way of eating fresh caviar professionally.
野生鲟鱼受到严格保护，因此鱼子酱的爱好者不得不吃人工养殖的鱼子酱。而在中国吃上一勺高品质的鱼子酱并不难。
Wild sturgeons are under strict protection. So caviar fans have no choice but to get used to eating aqua cultured caviar. And in China it’s not so difficult to get your hands on a spoonful of caviar of excellent quality.
当然怀疑令人不太开心。但对于一款令人难以置信的享受型产品来说，一公斤能达到900到2300欧元，这其中的奥秘一部分是商业模式，还有一部分是这位极具说服力的伊朗人那光芒四射的魅力。
The incredible luxurious product sells at 900 to 2300 Euro a kilo. A part of the mystery comes from its business mode, another comes from the charisma of the very persuasive Iranian.
"当然，"拉曼·科鲁吉说，地毯经销商！他笑了。他的父亲，工程师阿里瑞扎·科鲁吉博士，早在1997年在柏林做地毯交易——"还有开心果"。之后开始做鱼子酱交易。今天，阿里瑞扎的常客和他的接班人站在距离上海西南仅需两个小时的高铁车程的千岛湖中央的码头上，网箱摇摇晃晃，看着高贵且闪闪发亮的鲟鱼们从他左右身侧滑出黑色的深度。"欧鳇，"他说，"达氏鳇"和"俄罗斯鲟"。难以言喻的鱼类名称，鱼子酱在世界上享有盛誉：欧洲鳇，达氏鳇，俄罗斯鲟。
“Of course,” said Ramin Korouji, carpet distributor! He smiled. His father, Dr. Alireza Korouji started a carpet business in Berlin in 1998. - “and pistachios.” He then started to distribute caviar. Today, customers and successor to Alireza are standing at a floating platform in the middle of the Qiandao lake southeast of Shanghai by 2 hour high-speed train. The big cages wobble. The noble and shinny fishes slide gracefully in the water near them. “Huso huso”, he said, “Huso dauricus and Guedenstaedtii”. Obscure Latin names of the fishes. But their salty eggs are quite well known all over the world: Beluga, Kaluga and Osietra.
这个水库比康斯坦斯湖大，有一千多个岛屿。新英格兰阿尔卑斯山风格的房屋和一些镜像的高楼大厦的正面打断了原封不动、峡湾般的自然。全球最大的鱼子酱生产商——卡露伽鱼子酱，全球市场份额占据35%。其中最重要的是柏林格鲁内瓦尔德科鲁吉家族的皇家鱼子酱，他早已不再做开心果和地毯的生意。
A host to over a thousand islands, this reservoir is larger than Lake Constance. The world’s biggest caviar producer, Kaluga Queen produces 86 tons of caviar each year, accounting for 30% of the global production. One of its main products is Imperial Caviar from the Korouji Family in Berlin. He is no longer in the carpet and pistachio business.
比博登湖大：上海西南部的金岛水库让人联想到斯堪的纳维亚的峡湾景观，且拥有干净的水源。首先禁食，然后成为鱼子酱：在剖腹之前，鱼被分离到冷藏罐中，当它们饥饿时，在鱼子周围会失去脂肪组织。绝对干净，如同在做手术一样：在加工车间里，鱼卵取自雌鱼。
Bigger than Lake Boden: the water in the Qiandao lake southeast of Shanghai is very clear (picture on top). One is reminded of the fjords in Scandinavia. First fasting, then becoming caviar: before the fishes are slaughtered, they are kept in cold water. When they are hungry, the fat tissue surrounding the eggs vanishes (picture in the middle). Absolute cleanliness like a surgery room: remove eggs from the fish (picture at bottom).
如果您想做顶级的鱼子酱，那么您必须是谨慎的人。
然而，一些怀疑论者的偏见几乎没有改变。今天，他们指的是高贵美食的起源：养殖产品！从中国！我们都很了解，科洛吉人是有偏见的。他们做事极其完美并且十分透明。他耸耸肩说："野生鱼子酱现在无法再取到了。就这么简单。里海空无一人，全世界都禁止捕捞和进口野生鲟鱼。早在2006年，有远见的阿里瑞扎·科鲁吉就决定与"卡露伽鱼子酱"合作。时至今日，"帝国鱼子酱"是唯一获准在中国进行现场生产的公司。当然，也因为这些科鲁吉人，凭借他们在伊朗学到的知识，成就了今天的"卡露伽鱼子酱"。
If you want to make top quality caviar, then you need to be a cautious man.
Farmed products! From China! We all know that the Koroujis are biased. They are perfectionists who insist transparency. He shrugged, “wild caviar is no longer available. It’s just as simple as that. There’s no one on the Caspian Sea. Capture and import of wild sturgeon is prohibited all over the world.” As early as in 2006, Alireza Korouji started the cooperation with Kaluga Queen. Till this day, “Imperial Caviar” is still the only company that’s authorized to make on-site production in China. On the other hand of course the Kaluga Queen caviar owes its perfection partly to the Koroujis and the knowledge they’d learnt from Iran.
耐心点，至少八年
千岛湖的鲟鱼经过约八年时间的养殖，体重为80公斤。他们在岸上大型水池的冰冷淡水中禁食了四个星期，直到鱼子周围的脂肪组织基本耗尽。两名伊朗“帝国鱼子酱”公司的员工，一名鱼子酱大师和一名生物学家，对所有步骤进行监控——从选鱼到最后杀鱼。
该工厂拥有白衣工人，消毒盆和空气淋浴器，比起其他的豪华食品厂，这更让人联想到核电站。不锈钢，涟漪水，霓虹灯和十度凉爽的景象构成了工作场景。打开鲟鱼的腹部后，鱼卵暗亮，员工开始选择鱼子。四分之三的鱼子遭到“帝国鱼子酱”大师的拒绝：鱼卵未熟，太熟，太大，太小，颜色不均。
Patience! Eight years at least
After eight years’ aqua culture, the fishes in Qiandao lake weigh as much as 80kg a piece. When they finish the four week fasting in the cold water pool so that the fat surrounding the eggs are almost completely absorbed, they are moved to the caviar processing plant, where two Iranian Imperial Caviar employees, a caviar master and a biologist supervises the whole procedure – from fish selection to caviar production.
Workers in white lab coats, disinfection basins, locks, and air shower – compared to a processing plant of luxurious foods, this plant reminds one more of a nuclear power station. Once the fish belly is opened, the employees start to select eggs. 3/4 eggs are turned down by caviar master from Imperial Caviar: they are either not ripe, over ripe, too big, too small, or of uneven color.
科鲁吉在中国拥有一家鱼子酱公司
在选取到合适的鱼子后，开始准备鱼子酱：清洗，过筛，沥干，并用小镊子除去微小的脂肪组织颗粒。而且，鱼子酱大师阿巴斯·阿扎里在专家圈子中拥有近乎神奇的能力，这来自于他40多年的工作经验。他把鸡蛋和盐混合，用手画圆去搅动鱼子，同时用手去感觉紧实的质地。阿扎里敏锐地观察着鱼子的变化，包括其光泽和颜色。当他最终在带有多余水分的筛子中剧烈晃动将鱼子酱放置几秒钟时，一切就成就了：每一粒都是又紧实又有弹性，且很有质地。
最终，鱼子酱被罐装在了原始1.8公斤重的蓝色罐子中，放在了不锈钢的桌子上。由散发着光感的鱼子相互挤压，放置两天后将空气排出。紧接着，再次被检验，如有必要，重新制作。如果您曾经和难以商谈的中国人做过生意，就知道这意味着什么。最终，被验收成功的罐子会被密封，贴签和签约。七天后，这些产品就会来到德国。
Korouji has a caviar company in China
After selecting the suitable eggs, caviar production begins: washing, sifting, draining, picking out tiny fat grains by small tweezers. In the specialist world, caviar master Abbas Azari has a God-like reputation that comes with forty years’ experience. He mixes the eggs with salt, moving his hand in circles, feeling from time to time the firmness of the grains. Azari closely monitors the changes happening to the grains, changes of their color and sheen. When he at last shakes powerfully the sift a couple of times and put it down, everything was accomplished: every grain of caviar is firm and supple, full-bodied.
Finally, caviar is packed into the traditional 1.8kg blue tins and put on the stainless steel table. The shinning grains are pressed against each other in the tin. After two days, the air in the tin is completely dispelled. Then it’s time for another checkup. The caviar has to be re-made is necessary. The B class products are handed back to Kaluga Queen. You’d know what it means if you have dealt with the protective Chinese businessmen. At the end, the approved tins shall be sealed, labelled and signed in the contract. 7 days later, these products will arrive in Germany.
供不应求的鱼子，从柏林到好莱坞
味道呢？能赶超野生鱼子酱吗？问大师，大师回答：不。但是，如果不再有野生鱼子酱，如果以前出售的野生鱼子酱在质量上很少达到今天允许繁殖的水平，这意味着什么呢？
The hard—to-get caviar, from Berlin to Hollywood
How about the taste? Can it compare to wild caviar? Ask the master. He says, no. However, if there’s no wild caviar today, what meaning does the question have any more?
为保持口感的快速工作法：取出鱼子后，让鱼子立即形成扁平状结构。还有检查鱼子的质量。
鱼子酱大师用铲子和镊子仔细检查鱼子。
在放入罐子前：加盐腌制和调味后，将鱼子酱装入1.8千克的罐中，并用橡胶密封。一个星期后：抵达柏林！
Fast processing to maintain taste: after the eggs are taken out, immediately let them form a flattened structure (picture on top). And check the quality of the eggs.
Caviar master carefully inspecting the eggs with spatula and tweezer (picture in the middle).
Before packed into tins: after salting and mixing, pack caviar into 1.8kg tins, and seal with rubber band. One week later: arrive in Berlin!
保持口感，不易变质。但在少量的“帝国鱼子酱”中没有放稳定剂，用的是盐花。
正是这种灵活性使格鲁内华德公司成为了全球玩家和中产公司中的隐形冠军，如今他不仅为凯撒·拉米雷斯的“布鲁克林美食大厨桌”和奥斯卡传奇名利场派对提供食材，而且还为汉莎航空头等舱每年提供至少三至四吨鱼子酱。当然，还有德国顶级餐厅，如特劳伯顿巴赫和蒂姆劳伊。
Maintain taste, making it less likely to deteriorate. But a small part of Imperial Caviar is without any preservative, only salt is used.
Such flexibility made Grunewald a global player and a hidden champion among the middle-class companies. Today, he not only supplies to Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare and the legendary Vanity Fair Oscar Party, but also to the first class cabins of Lufthansa at a yearly volume of 3~4 tons, as well as of course top restaurants in Germany, such as Traube Tonbach and Tim Raue.
闻起来有细腻黄油的味道，尝起来有奶油和坚果的味道
当您打开“帝国鱼子酱”都可以立即理解原因。像镜子均匀地发着漂亮的光。仿佛在一个完美无瑕的马赛克中一颗颗鸡蛋相互叠加。可以闻到散发着黄油的香气，尝起来很细密，有一种梦幻般的凉釉质和奶油，坚果以及矿物质的香味。所有的不开心，怀疑的坏情绪在吃完后会有突然看到烟花的幸福感！
It smells of smooth butter, and tastes creamy and nutty
Once you open a tin of Imperial Caviar, you’ll immediately understand why. The grains are pressed against each other perfectly like the mosaics and shine like a mirror. Scent of butter is in the air. When you taste it, there is a dream like texture of enamel and a mixed aroma of cream, nut and minerals. All skepticism and bad mood are gone and replaced with the joy like suddenly seeing fireworks！
养殖的鱼子酱
自1998年以来，野生鱼类一直受到《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》《物种保护公约》的严格保护，里海几乎没有人再捕鱼。从那时起，它已在法国，意大利，伊朗，德国，乌拉圭，中国，瑞士等建立繁殖场生产。货物必须是可控的，并用罐装贮存。
质量在稳步提高，早期讨厌这种方式的声音已经消失。在2010年第12期中有对19个繁殖鱼子酱的大型美食评论家的盲测。赢家是谁呢？正是格鲁吉先生的“帝国精选鱼子酱”！
Farmed caviar
Wild sturgeons have been strictly protected by Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species since 1998. In the Caspian Sea, there were almost no sturgeon fishing. Sturgeon aqua culture started to develop in France, Italy, Iran, Germany, Uruguay, China, Switzerland, etc.
As the quality of farmed caviar got better, the previous aversion faded away. Volume. 12 of 2010 covered a big tasting event consisting 19 farmed caviar products. Guess who was the winner? Mr. Korouji’s “Imperial Selection Caviar”!
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