First look: Soma- 大数跨境

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First look: Soma

TimeOutShanghai

2015-11-04

导读：Japanese-Western fusion eatery with crazy visual displays

Food & Drink

What is it?

A glitzy 'Japanese-Western fusion' restaurant and bar - or 'dinning lounge' [sic] as they put it - at the SOHO Fuxing complex. Whereas some restaurants throw terms like 'fusion' around with care-free abandon, the owners here have hired both a Western and a Japanese chef to head up the kitchen with the aim of bringing French and Japanese cuisines together.

Soma doesn't occupy the largest of the units at SOHO Fuxing, but they've nevertheless tried to squeeze a bar and a restaurant into their space, meaning you may end up eating at the bar or have to take in your meal with pounding music as an accompaniment (what starts out early evening as a light indie-rock soundtrack morphs in to more dance-oriented numbers by 9pm). Smoking is permitted throughout.

Wherever you sit, though, you'll find it hard to take your eyes off the bar area which features what the owner says is the first screen of its kind in Asia. It projects a range of seemingly three dimensional images - from atmospheric landscapes and abstract shapes to a woman's face (see above) - all while the bar staff scuttle around below mixing cocktails. It's certainly attention grabbing.

What's on the menu?

The current menu is reasonably small, but varied. Sashimi and sushi offerings (from 38RMB for a sushi rolls with eel and tuna) are joined by mains such as Australian Wagyu beef rib (328RMB for 200g), tempura udon noodles (88RMB) and grilled salmon (138RMB).

The grilled pork ribs with 'onion tempura' (128RMB) was a hearty, satisfying portion of meat and onion rings on one visit. If you're after more of a bar snack, we enjoyed the 'tacos' (68RMB), small crisps discs topped with sea urchin, avocado and a lightly spiced mentaiko (pollock roe) dressing.

On the drinks side, there are bottles of wine from 380RMB (for a De Martino Legado Reserve Chardonnay) and signature cocktails such as a citrusy Yuzu Drop for 78RMB, though the competent barman is perfectly capable of mixing off menu drinks as per customers' requests too (an off piste negroni set us back 88RMB).

We say

Some of the items at Soma seem a little overpriced (though to be fair they have cheaper options such as a vegetarian soba offering for 48RMB). But, they're still tweaking the menu in these early opening stages, and it will be interesting to see how Soma develops. A little more division between bar and dining area might work, but then they clearly don't want to spoil the view of that screen.

Address

Soma

is at SOHO Fuxing Plaza, 388 Madang Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu.

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