Think of the best piece of French toast you’ve ever had… can you even bring a particular slice to mind? Try Ben’s family recipe at Heat, and you’ll answer that question easily. Sink your teeth into thick, melt-in-your-mouth pillows of baguette soaked through with just the right ratio of milk to eggs and vanilla, each side golden brown and edges slightly crisp. This is a simple bit of French fare done well.
When China’s diners hear the term ‘French cuisine’, thoughts automatically turn to fine dining. But every French meal need not be fancy-shmancy – there’s obviously another face to the country’s fare. At Heat French Rotisserie and Bistro, owner Benjamin Grillo, with chef Hugo Rodriguez Meza, is showing France’s more homey side via family recipes and candid, classic dishes.
Despite its hip soundtrack and flashy-but-not-overdone interior, which includes a vibrant mural above the bar, a meal at Heat is like one that comes straight from Grandma’s kitchen; love included. There’s nothing fancy about what’s on offer here – it’s just honest food prepared by a team that cares, and that’s a breath of fresh air. And as the dishes arrive in red, retro-style Le Creuset ovenware, you’ll feel more and more at home.
The restaurant’s main sell, French-style rotisserie chicken, is a simple bird: moist and tender on the inside with lovely golden legs and wings, though the skin over the breast could benefit from a bit time browning, and more herbs and spices could be involved. Pair the meat with homemade sauces like the bright, garlicky chimichurri or creamy honey mustard, but skip the oddly mayo-based Thai-chilli sauce. A whole bird with four sauces and four sides will run you 245RMB; half of all that for 125RMB; a quarter for 65RMB – all great value.
The sides are nice accompaniments: herby ragout, sautéed mushrooms with garlic, Brussels sprouts with strips of chorizo, pommel noisette fries (little puffs of fried mashed potato), roasted pumpkin and others, which are all quite nice – besides needing an extra pinch of salt. The rich house-made chicken liver pâté (28RMB), topped with a savoury, fatty layer of chicken drippings, is definitely worth a try, as is the smoked duck breast salad (78RMB), which is an ideal lunch.
The house cocktails are surprisingly pleasant. The lavender-scented Purple Rain with gin, Lillet, lemon and lavender bud is as lovely as the flower that lends its flavour. And you’ll love the strawberry-infused gin and earthy rosemary hint in La Vie en Rose (78RMB each).
If you’re looking for down-to-earth, home-style cooking without the fuss, Heat is where you’ll get it. Whatever you do, do not skip the French toast.
Heat French Rotisserie and Bistro 199 Maoming Bei Lu, near Weihai Lu, Jingan district (3220 5689). Open 11am-11pm daily.
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