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文｜慧说定制
原创首发｜微信公众号"Mona Fang"
ID:Mona_Fang20
——定制从业者与爱好者的不二之选
Q：Ciao Nicola, one question. Among all the tailor made suits brands or boutiques you know all over the world, which one impress you most? and why?
你好，Nicola，在你所熟知的所有西装定制品牌或精品店中，哪个让你印象最深刻？
Nicola Radano：
Good question. So i really enjoy italian tailoring, especially Neapolitan one. My favorite are: ORAZIO LUCIANO, SARTORIA PANICO, SARTORIA CIARDI
问得好，我很喜欢意大利的剪裁风格，特别是ORAZIO LUCIANO, SARTORIA PANICO, SARTORIA CIARDI
I really like them because they’re very natural and the shape is so original.
我很喜欢他们，因为他们很自然并且版型很独特。
Q：
Could you tell me something about the brand you are making, such as the style of the suit?
您能告诉我一些你做的品牌信息吗，比如西装款式？
Nicola Radano：
So i do have a ties brand and I’m doing consulting for different brand like Orazio Luciano. All are classic but with interesting shape.I do like classic, but I like to say not tooo much.
我有一个领带品牌并且我在不同品牌做咨询的工作，比如Orazio Luciano。都是很经典而有特色版型，我喜欢经典的，但也不需要太多的经典。
Q：
Are these brands you mentioned the classical ones in terms of the tailoring skills, interior design and the way of their operation? Any particular brand you know that completely change the traditional way of tailor made suits business in Italy or Europe?
你提到的这些品牌在剪裁技巧，内部设计和运营方式都是经典的方式么？你知道有哪个品牌完全改变了意大利或欧洲传统的西装定制方式吗？
Nicola Radano：
Yes, very classic in term of tailoring skill (OLD SCHOO).
是的，都是非常经典的剪裁技巧（老派的）。
I think one brand that change a bit the traditions is KITON. Still keeping the same pattern but mabe the lavoration is a bit different.
我认为一个品牌改变了一点传统的是KITON。仍然保持相同的模式，但可能会有一些不同。
Q：What’s people think of Rubinacci, and what do you think of. Particularly the Neapolitan.
人们怎么看Rubinacci，你又怎么看呢？尤其是那不勒斯当地人。
Nicola Radano：
Rubinacci is good, very good. One of the oldest in Naples - his style is very chic & very london/country mixed with Neapolitan nonchalance.
Rubinacci很好，非常好。那不勒斯比较悠久的品牌之一——他的风格很时髦&很英伦/乡村混合着那不勒斯人的玩世不恭的生活态度。
Neapolitan think that he’s good but may be expensive for italians.
那不勒斯人认为这个品牌很好，但对于意大利人来说可能昂贵。
Q：Hi,Nicola,any color suggestions for the business casual occasion in this summer?
你好，Nicola，今年夏天商务、休闲场合着装的颜色建议？
Nicola Radano：
I think navy cotton - linen or mix. Or you can choose a good mohair fabric (mohair/kid mohair) in navy or grey.
我认为是以海军蓝色为主的棉质、麻质、以及棉麻混纺织物等，或者可以选择比较不错的含有马海毛成分的灰色或海军蓝色的西装面料。
Q：And Antonio Pascariello,If you know?
那Antonio Pascariello呢？
Nicola Radano：
Yes, he’s very good. CLASSIC not so famour.
他是很好的。经典但不是很著名。
Q：
Ciao Nicola! I have a same question on Absolute Bespoke. The one was founded by & tomaslasoargos.
你好，Nicola，我也有一个关于全定制的问题。由tomaslasoargos创立的那个。
Nicola Radano：
He’s a funny guy, but not the same of Rubanacci or others. Quality is low and the style is very “trendy”. Tailoring is timeless for my point of view.
他是一个有趣的人，但和Rubanacci或其他的人不一样。做工一般但款式“新潮”。我认为传统的裁缝是更不会过时的。
Q：Ciao Nicola, what do you think the main difference Kiton has made to have the innovation please?
你好，Nicola，你认为Kiton在创新方面的主要区别是什么？
Nicola Radano：
I think operations are much faster...
我觉得是运营更快。。。
Q：
What do you think of those skinny fit suit? Seems like that is different type of bespoke.
你认为那些修身的西装怎么样？看起来像是不同类型的定制。
Nicola Radano:
I don’t really like, slim & fit. I like confort:
我不太喜欢修身。我喜欢舒适的：
Not skinny, at all.
从来不修身。
Q：
Faster but keep the same quality?Still bespoke?
更快但保持同样的质量吗？还是定制吗？
Nicola Radano：
No. When you make things faster: quality going a bit down. But i think still very good Quality. Kiton have the best fabric in the world.
我不赞同。当你把东西做的更快时：质量就会有点下降了。但我更注重衣服做工质量。Kiton有世界上最优质的面料。
Q：
Classic is always the best! Many thanks for the answer!
经典永远是最好的！很感谢你的解答！
Nicola Radano：
Agree- timeless.
同意——永远。
Q:
What is different between Napoli style，Firenze style and Roma style?
那不勒斯风格，佛罗伦萨风格和罗马风格之间有什么区别呢？
Nicola Radano：
So every city have a different kind of cutting & structure. Neapolitan is: more nonchalant, soft & easy. Florence or Milan, it’s more structured and more perfect shape. I don’t really like to be perfect. Sometimes imperfections are the keys🔑.
每个城市有不同的剪裁和结构的方式。那不勒斯：更多的冷漠，柔软和放松。
佛罗伦萨和米兰更有结构性并且更完美的外型。我真的不太喜欢完美。有时不完美才是关键。
Q：Nike or Adidas?
Nike或Adidas？
Nicola Radano：
Good question. Ahaha.I like both, but vintage!
哈哈哈，好问题，两者我都喜欢，但是复古款。
Q：
Chinese girls or Italian girls？
喜欢中国女孩还是意大利女孩？
Nicola Radano：
Both! Of course! Ahah.
哈哈哈，当然是都喜欢。
Q：
There are a lot of discussion about British style VS Milanese style, both structured, how would you say about those please?Both?
有很多关于英式风格与米兰风格的讨论，都是关于西装结构化的，请问你对这两者怎么看？
Nicola Radano：
I think they’re similar but british is more structured.
我觉得这两个国家对于西装的认知是存同求异的，英式西装更注重结构上的处理。
Q：
Do you have any name of Japanese brand for menswear please? Close to buy for us?
请你推荐一些日本男装品牌？对我们来说很方便购买。
Nicola Radano：
Classic or in general?
经典男装品牌还是所有男装品类的品牌？
Q：
general.
所有的。
Nicola Radano：
I like a lot: RESOLUTE, Ring Jacket, ACATE.
我喜欢很多：RESOLUTE, Ring Jacket, ACATE.
Q：
Hi Nicolas.How does yong generation of Italians think of suits and How many suits does a Italian have in his wardrobeI in average? Thanks.
嗨 Nicola。意大利的年轻一代是怎么看待西装的，意大利人的衣橱里平均有多少件西服？谢谢。
Nicola Radano：
Good question. Young generation it’s wearing suit very few time. I personally own close to 100 suit but in avere i think: i think people need to own at least 5 suit: NAVY, GREY, CHECK, PINSTRIPES, BROWorGREEN.
问的好。年轻一代很少穿西装。我【个人】大概有100件西装。但我认为：我认为人们至少拥有5套西装：经典的海军蓝色、灰色、格子的、条纹的、还有棕色或绿色的西装。
Q：Maybe you could give a bit more info about your tie brand and your part in ORAZIO LUCIANO
或许可以分享一下你的领带品牌的相关信息，以及你在ORAZIO LUCIANO所负责的板块？
Nicola Radano：
I’m the owner and the designer of my brand “Spacca Neapolis”. For “Orazio Luciano” I’m in charge of the MTM, trunk show, USA market & comunication.
我是我的品牌“Spacca Neapolis”的拥有者和设计师。在“Orazio Luciano” 我负责MTM（半定制）、trunkshow（定制会）、以及美国市场的业务板块。
Q:
It would nice if you can name couple Italian accessories brands (ties, pocket squares..etc) you highly recommend or the ones particularly intrigue you.
你能说几个你强烈推荐或者吸引你的意大利配件品牌么（领带，口袋方巾等）？
Nicola Radano:
Of course my brand: www.spacca-neapolis.com.
Lol. But also E. MARINELLA, FRANCESCO MARINO, CILIENTO
哈哈哈，当然我自己品牌：www.spacca-neapolis.com。除此之外E. MARINELLA, FRANCESCO MARINO, CILIENTO。
Q：
One question about handmade tie, should canvas always be in the tie or not please?
又一个关于手工领带的问题，领带是否必须要有内衬（羊毛衬）？
Nicola Radano：
I think light canvas, yes.
我觉得轻一点薄一点软一点的内衬（泛指羊毛衬或麻衬）是必要的。
Q：
Because I bought some 7 fold tie without canvas, which result in unstable knot, would you say it is fine or better with canvas?
我买过一些7折无里领带，没有内衬的，打出来的领带结不是很稳定，您觉得是否有内衬的领带会更好打一些吗？
Nicola Radano：
Yes. I always prefer canvas. Maybe a little bit.
是的，我更喜欢有一点内衬的领带。
Q：
Do you know where I can buy Italian suit accessories? How can we buy in China conveniently?
你认为我应该在哪里买意大利西装辅料？怎么在中国购买更方便？
Nicola Radano：
Suit accessories. What do you mean?
西装辅料。你指？
Q：
like bottons、liner…
比如说纽扣和衬里这些。。。
Nicola Radano：
Mhm, i can help you. But i need to call some friends of mine!
嗯，我可以帮你。但我需要联系我的朋友们。
Q：
Could you give us some suggestion for using the suit match with other casual Cloth. Because many people don't want to wear too formal.
你能给我们一些关于用西装搭配其他休闲服装的建议么？因为很多人不想穿的太正式。
Nicola Radano：
Sure, I always wear classic trouser with t-shirt or College jackets. Very easy. Check those photos:
当然，我总是穿经典的裤子配T恤或者学院风的夹克（棒球夹克）。很简单。看这些图片：
Q:
Would MTM from Orazio Luciano cover a big range of bespoke alternatives or very basic one with width and length, etc please?
请问来自Orazio Luciano的mtm是否会像bespoke那样大幅度进行版型调整还是只基于围度上的尺寸调整？
Nicola Radano：
Yes. For sure very good value for money!
是的，非常物有所值！
Q：
Hi Nicoal just a digression.Do you like dress shoes?
嗨 Nicola 说句题外话。你喜欢正装鞋吗？
Nicola Radano：
Of course. For man?
当然。男式的？
Q：
Yes. What style do you like?
是的。你喜欢哪个款式？
Nicola Radano：
I like loafers, a lot! Comfort & shape!
我非常喜欢乐福鞋！舒服且有型！
Q：
Is there a particular brand you like？
你有特别喜欢的品牌吗？
Nicola Radano：
Roberto Ugolini.
Q：
What's your favourite Shirts Collar? In your opinion， What is the most important for Shirts When you choose a shirt for yourself?
你最喜欢的衬衫领子是什么？在你看来，当你为自己选择一件衬衫最看重的是什么？
Nicola Radano：
I like very big and pointed collar. Like old school style, please check ph:
我喜欢非常大而尖的领子。像老派的风格，请看图：
Q：
Do you have any magazines or books you like specialized in menswear please?
请问你有喜欢的男装杂志或书籍么？
Nicola Radano：
Yes. My favorite magazine are: THE RAKE, WM BROWN, YOLO, MONOCLE.
当然。我最喜欢的杂志是：THE RAKE, WM BROWN, YOLO, MONOCLE
Q：
The Rake is the only one I’m subscribing now, will check the rest, hope not in Italian.
Rake是我现在唯一订阅的杂志，其他的我都会看，希望不是意大利语的。
Nicola Radano：
All English!
全英文的！
Q：
One more question, any online shop you like to go for menswear? mr porter?
还有一个问题，你回去网店购买男装么？Mr Porter？
Nicola Radano：
Mr Porter / The Rake!
Q：
Are SPACCA on those shops?
在这些商店里有SPACCA吗？
Nicola Radano：
Soon on the Rake!
很快会在Rake上线！
Tips：
通过在群里与Nicola Radano短暂的交流学习，感受到他真的是个专业知识和颜值都在线的优秀品牌主理人。虽然Nicola是个有数万粉丝的网红，但本人真的很Nice，接地气，在群内交流时知无不言，言无不尽，真的做到了有问必答，让群内的每个人都感受到了他本人的独特魅力与专业的知识水平，受益匪浅。期待下次与Nicola的相遇。
以上翻译内容仅供参考。
特此声明：经Nicola Radano本人证实，实际身高177cm，体重70kg，并非像网上流传那样不到170cm。
如果有朋友对西装风格相关知识感兴趣，想进一步沟通交流，请关注我们，我们期待你的加入。
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