从不间断的新品发表，永不停歇的流行趋势，美妆界的潮流一直在变化。如今韩国美妆在亚洲受到欢迎已经不是新鲜事，连一向追求小麦肤色、上扬浓眉的欧美人也开始对韩妆燃起了兴趣。究竟什么原因导致韩妆如此受欢迎呢？本期Quriosity带你探索韩国美妆的秘密～
For thousands of years the fashion conscious have used make-up to get their look just right, and keep up with fast-moving trends. Now, the global beauty industry is experiencing a revolution driven by South Korea. Say hello to K-beauty.
几千年来，时尚人士通过化妆将外观修饰地恰到好处，并紧跟潮流。 现在，全球美容行业正在经历一场由韩国推动的革命。 是时候向K-beauty问好了！
Young people in Western countries have become infatuated with K-pop - Korean pop music - and Korean soap operas.
西方国家的年轻人已经开始对韩流着迷——也就是韩国流行音乐和韩剧。
Many Korean celebrities and pop stars, including the seven-member boy band BTS, are known for their signature looks.
许多韩国名流和明星，例如防弹少年团这个七人组合，就因为他们的标志性造型而出名。
But it's not just Korean entertainment - in the last 18 months, there has also been a rise in Korean beauty trends coming over to the West.
不仅仅是韩国娱乐业，在过去的18个月，韩国美妆潮流也在西方逐渐兴起。
In 2017, South Korea's beauty industry was estimated to be worth just over $13bn (£10bn), according to retail researchers Mintel.
据零售研究机构英敏特称，2017年韩国的美容行业估计价值超过130亿美元（合100亿英镑）。
The fascination with Korean cosmetics is due to how innovative they are, says Marie Claire's digital beauty editor Katie Thomas.
嘉人杂志的数字美容编辑Katie Thomas说，韩式化妆品的迷人之处在于独特创新。
South Korea's beauty industry is typically about 10-12 years ahead of the rest of the world, she says.
她说，韩国的美容产业通常比世界其他地区领先10到12年。
"It's not that there's been a big boom, we're just catching up with them essentially, [helped by] the expansion of Instagram and beauty blogging."
“倒不是说韩式美妆在西方出现了盛大繁荣。在Instagram和美容博客不断发展的帮助下，基本上我们正在逐渐赶上韩国的脚步。”
'Skincare first'
“先护肤”
Before even putting any make-up on, Koreans put in a lot of effort to take care of their skin.
在化妆之前，韩国人首先会精心护肤。
"It's sort of ingrained in Korean culture from a very young age to look after your skin," Ms Thomas says, explaining that the Korean ethos is to ensure that you have good skin, rather than needing foundation and other products to cover up unsightly blemishes.
托马斯女士说：“‘年轻的时候就要开始护肤’的理念已经扎根于韩国文化之中。”她解释说，韩国人的理念是确保你拥有好的皮肤，而不是用粉底和其他产品来掩盖不美观的瑕疵。
You might be used to the typical daily three-step routine of using cleanser, toner and moisturiser before applying make-up, but in South Korea, skincare regimes range from seven to 12 steps, with a focus on hydrating the skin using gentle, natural ingredients.
你可能已经习惯了常用的妆前护肤三部曲：洁面乳、爽肤水和润肤乳。但是在韩国，护肤有7到12个步骤，强调用温和、自然的产品为肌肤保湿。
"Some people would see it as excessive, but the fact is, you're feeding your skin with these incredible ingredients. It's so different in the UK [in comparison]," says Ms Thomas.
“有人会觉得这些都是不必要的步骤，但事实是，这些神奇的产品正在滋养皮肤。相比之下，在英国又是另一番情景了。” Thomas女士说。
Much more research is carried out into new products in South Korea than in other countries, she says, because there are so many competing brands, each trying to be the best.
她表示，比起其他国家，韩国有更多的产品研发，因为品牌竞争十分激烈，每家都想尽力做到最好。
"The Korean beauty industry doesn't shy away from introducing new, unique ingredients to their formulas that would never be considered in the West," says Karen Hong, the founder of K Beauty Bar, a concession stand for Korean beauty products found in Topshop's flagship store in London's Oxford Street.
“韩国美妆总会大胆地给产品配方加入独特的新鲜血液，这些原料从未在西方美妆的考虑范围之内。”K Beauty Bar 的创始人Karen Hong说。K Beauty Bar是一家韩国美妆商店，位于伦敦购物街道牛津街的Topshop旗舰店。
Unique ingredients such as...? "Snail mucin for moisturising, pearl for brightening, green tea for oil control and propolis from bees for soothing and nourishing," she reels off.
都有哪些独特的原料呢？“具有保湿功效的蜗牛粘液、可以提亮肌肤的珍珠、用来控油的绿茶以及具有舒缓滋润功效的蜂胶。”她一下举了好几个例子。
Social success
在社交平台上的大获成功
In the US, 13% of 10 to 17-year-old girls are interested in trying K-beauty products, and 18% of 18 to 22-year-old women have used these products.
在美国，13%的10岁到17岁女生有兴趣尝试韩国美妆产品；18%的18岁到22岁的女性已经使用过这些产品。
According to Mintel's global beauty analyst Andrew McDougall, Korean beauty trends have grown in popularity thanks to "clever digital marketing strategies" on social media that have gained the interest of Western beauty influencers, bloggers and journalists.
英敏特（市场资讯研究公司）的全球美妆分析师Andrew McDougall表示，韩国美妆在社交媒体上“巧妙的数字化市场营销战略”吸引了许多西方美妆意见领袖、美妆博主和新闻从业者，因此越来越受欢迎。
Consumers' interests are piqued by colourful packaging, as well as reviews and demonstrations on Instagram and YouTube, he explains. "It's consumers who are more informed and do their own research, and it's influencers who put them on the K-beauty path in the first place," says Mr McDougall.
他表示，韩国美妆的产品包装以及Instagram 和YouTube上对其的产品评价和展示都激起了消费者的兴趣。“在深入了解产品之前，消费者首先需要知道这个产品的存在，而意见领袖就为他们打开了这扇韩国美妆的大门。”
Katie Thomas agrees: "That K-pop fun quite cartoony approach is very much part of their industry. But it does do very well. People do buy into fun packaging - things they can take a picture of on their bathroom shelf."
凯蒂·托马斯对此表示认同：“韩国流行产业很大程度上就在于其有趣且卡通化的特点。但它确实做得很好。人们确实会因为有趣的包装购买——他们可以给浴室架子上的化妆品拍照。”
Some products can be found in Topshop and TKMaxx, but other than that, most British consumers can only buy these products online.
人们可以在Topshop和TKMaxx找到一些产品，但除此之外，大多数英国消费者只能在网上购买这些产品。
YesStyle.com is one such company, and it sees Korean make-up as big business.
YesStyle.com就是这样一家公司，它把韩国美妆看成一项大生意。
The Hong Kong-based e-commerce firm carries more than 150 Korean brands, and it expects sales of K-beauty products to top $25m in 2018.
这家总部位于香港的电子商务公司拥有150多个韩国品牌，预计2018年该公司韩国美妆品的销售额将超过2500万美元。
Its founder Joshua Lau says the website's success has been down to reviews from verified buyers that give Western consumers the confidence to take a chance on new items.
该公司的创始人刘俊华把成功归功于用过产品买家的评价，让西方消费者有信心尝试新产品。
YesStyle's beauty editor Romy Rose Reyes says that Western consumers have been intrigued by the "Chok Chok" no make-up make-up look, where the aim is to have "dewy and bouncy skin with an extra glow".
YesStyle的美容编辑罗米·罗斯·雷耶斯表示，西方消费者已被“水灵灵”的裸妆感妆容强烈吸引，这种妆容旨在让皮肤看起来“水嫩、有弹性且更有光泽”。
According to Ms Reyes and Ms Hong, looking "natural" and "youthful" is in, and the matte look favoured by European and US markets is now out.
雷耶斯与洪女士说，看上去“自然”和“年轻化”的妆容正值潮流，过去欧洲和美国市场青睐的哑光妆效已经过时。
To that end, there is an emphasis on:
1) creating a subtle lip gradient using lip tints
2) light foundation innovations: "cushion" foundations, BB creams (beauty or blemish creams) and CC creams (colour correcting creams)
3) using "sheet" face masks to treat a variety of skin problems.
为打造年轻自然的妆容，重点在于：
1) 使用唇彩创造微妙的唇色渐变
2) 在轻薄底妆上的创新：气垫粉底，BB霜（美容霜或遮瑕霜）和CC霜（调色霜）
3) 使用膜纸式面膜来治疗各种皮肤问题
'K-beauty' inspired products
受韩国美妆品启发的产品
Western cosmetics makers have been taking notice too.
西方的化妆品制造商也已经注意到了这一点。
"We see some Western brands take on a few of these skincare steps into their own regimes," says Marie Claire's Katie Thomas.
《嘉人》的凯蒂·托马斯说：“我们看到一些西方品牌在自己的美容法中也采取了韩式美妆的一些护肤措施。”
"For example, Yves Saint Laurent has cushion foundation and cushion blushers. It's a bit less scary for consumers - an easy way into K-beauty with a known brand."
“例如，YSL有气垫粉底和气垫霜。这对消费者来说就没那么可怕了——她们可以轻易地通过知名品牌了解韩国美妆品。”
This summer, Primark launched its K-Pop range of cosmetics, which sold out quickly.
今年夏天，Primark推出了韩国流行系列化妆品，很快就销售一空。
Primark told the BBC that it was inspired by a "huge trend" it saw based on skincare innovations from South Korea, and it is continuing to stock face masks.
该品牌告诉BBC，它的灵感来源于韩国护肤品创新的“大趋势”，并且它还在继续生产面膜。
"We found this was a range that really worked for the younger consumer, who was not necessarily after serious skincare," a company spokesperson said.
一位公司的发言人说：“我们发现这一系列能够真正适应年轻消费者的需要，因为他们对护肤的需求并不十分严格。”
So is it just a fad, or is the K-beauty trend likely to last?
所以，这只是一时狂热，还是说韩妆美容的趋势将会持久呢？
Ms Thomas thinks it's here to stay, because young people are very concerned about the environment, and how damage to it affects humans as well as plants and animals.
托马斯女士认为这种趋势即将到此为止，因为现在的年轻人都很关心环保，他们清楚，这些化妆品将对人体和动植物造成伤害。
"People are becoming more attuned to what is happening to their skin - there's so much pollution that gets into our skin that we don't know about," she says. "Anything related to environmental damage is very much coming over to the Western market."
她说：“人们越来越重视皮肤的变化，有太多的污染物正在不知不觉中侵染我们的皮肤。那些破坏环境的产品，正逐渐逼近西方市场。”
How about cosmetics for males
男士化妆品又如何呢？
But while much of this applies to women, in Korea cosmetics is big business for both male and female consumers, so is K-beauty likely to take off with men in the West?
尽管大部分化妆品为女性设计，但在韩国，对于男性或是女性消费者，化妆品都是一项大的开支。韩式美妆产品会不会取得西方男士的青睐呢？
"In Korea there is a different attitude amongst men towards skincare and make-up - they're not afraid to express themselves as long as they look and feel good, especially the younger generation. But this isn't a trend that has reached the general male population in the West yet," says Karen Hong. Mintel's Andrew McDougall agrees.
洪凯仁表示：“在韩国，对‘护肤’与‘化妆’，社会上有两种截然不同的态度：只要看起来、感觉起来良好，人们就不惧于表现自己——这对年轻人来说特为尤甚。但是这种趋势还没有波及到西方男性群体。”对此，英敏特的全球美容分析师Andrew McDougall表示赞同。
"Men in the West are increasingly becoming more active consumers in the beauty and personal care area, though there is a long way to catch up," he says.
他说：“西方男性正越来越成为美妆和个人护理产品领域的活跃群体，不过，要赶上韩国的风潮，还有很长的一段路要走。”
He points to Chanel's recent launch of a make-up line targeted at men called Boy de Chanel - the company chose to debut the products in South Korea, rather than its native France.
他指出，香奈儿公司近期投放了一款针对男性消费者的化妆品，并将其命名为“Boy de Chanel”。同时，该公司决定将产品的首发地定在韩国，而不是总部所在的法国。
Mr McDougall also adds that he doesn't wear make-up or use a fancy skincare routine himself.
McDougall先生还补充道，他本人并不化妆，也不会使用一些花里胡哨的日常护肤品。
编译人员：刘与晨 产雨欣 张殷雯 杨二一
指导老师：刘佳
图文排版：产雨欣
新闻来源：BBC NEWS
图片来源：Pixabay、iStock
