Rear view:
the big business of bottoms
丰乳肥臀背后的危机:整形行业风险揭秘
全文字数: 3276(中英) 阅读时间: 10分钟
Photograph: Chris Pizzello/Invision/AP
‘Everyone wants to look like Kim Kardashian (above), not Kate Moss.’
每个人都想看起来像金·卡戴珊,而不是凯特·摩丝
上
As more and more women go under the knife in pursuit of curves, it’s clear they are paying with their health
越来越多的女性为了追求曲线美选择开刀,显然,她们要为之付出健康的代价。
The press briefing for October’s Clinical Cosmetic Reconstructive Expo in London was delayed – there had been another death.
又一起死亡事故发生后,十月份在伦敦召开的临床美容整形博览会的新闻发布会延迟了。
A cluster of journalists gathered on the mezzanine while below them visitors filtered past signs for She Lase and Zero Gravity Skin and a stand for a company called Eurosilicone that claims to have been “Empowering women for over 30 years”.
记者们群聚在中间,其他人跟在后面,缓缓穿过She Lase和Zero Gravity Skin的广告牌,以及Eurosilicone公司的摊位。(Eurosilicone声称“三十年来为女性赋权”。)
At the far end of the conference hall, a woman was having her jawline enhanced with fillers in front of a rapt crowd; the Safety in Beauty stand was empty.
与会厅的末端,一群人在围观一位女士进行下巴填充手术。而美容安全的摊位前空无一人。
Back on the mezzanine, there was a rustle of suits as the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS) entered the room. Apologies for the delay, one said solemnly, there has been another death.
随着一阵西装摩擦悉索作响,英国美容整形外科医生协会(BAAPS)成员走进了夹层楼面。其中一位神情肃穆地为发布会延迟道歉,并宣布又发生了一起整容致死事件。
A second British woman has died this year after a Brazilian Butt Lift (BBL). Which made their announcement that they were henceforth warning surgeons not to perform the procedure particularly urgent. The brief was called “The Bottom Line”.
这是今年第二位应该女性在巴西式丰臀手术(BBL)之后死亡。因此该协会宣布,他们警告整容医师不要操之过急进行这种手术。这场发布会的简要主旨就叫“守住底线”。
Bottoms are big business in 2018. For a generation whose mothers spent mornings trying to shrink their thighs in front of Jane Fonda videos, today there is no such thing as a bum that’s too big.
2018年,臀部整形产业盈利巨大。一代人曾经看着自己的母亲们早上跟着简方达的节目做瘦腿运动。而如今人们恨不得臀部不够大。
The perfect body has changed every decade over the past century, stretching and curving over time like a time-lapse sand dune.
过去的一个世纪里,完美身材的标准每十年就改变一次,像延时拍摄的沙丘一样,随着时间的推移伸缩变化。
Body parts have come in and out of fashion depending on the mainstream obsessions of the moment, from the lean boyish chests of flappers in the 1920s, signifying liberation from corsetry, through 30s bosoms and 40s legs,
二十世纪20年代,作为女性从紧身衣中解脱的象征,瘦弱平胸的flapper 女孩式身材大为流行;30年代流行大胸;40年代流行美腿;
to the sexualised femininity of Marilyn Monroe’s hourglass figure, and on eventually to 80s muscles (Power! Strength!), and 90s, well, bones. Extreme slenderness was maintained beyond the millennium, but with added breasts, a modified Monroe, minus the tummy.
然后开始崇尚玛丽莲·梦露沙漏形身材透露的性感女性气质;最终到80年代的肌肉型(力量!强大!),90年代的骨感美。2000年以后,流行审美里的女性依然保持着极度苗条的身材,但她们增加了胸部,去掉了肚子,成为加强版梦露的形象。
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In 2010, breast augmentation procedures in the UK increased by 10% to 9,418, remaining the most popular cosmetic surgery procedure. And then came the arse.
2010年,在英国签订的隆胸手术增长了10%,达到了9418起,保住了最受欢迎整形手术的地位。其次就是臀部整形手术。
“Big bums are now associated with women with attitude and a sway who are non-white, which is desired,” says Susie Orbach, the psychotherapist who has been analysing women’s relationships to their bodies for more than 40 years.
心理学家Susie Orbach研究了四十多年女性和她们身体的关系。她说:“如今,巨臀让人联想到有态度的女人,也让人联想到身姿摇曳的非白人女性,很受欢迎。”
In 2012, I spoke to a group of 20-year-olds about the media pressure to change their bodies. Rather than extreme thinness, they said the pressure was to look sexy. “Everyone wants to look like Kim Kardashian, not Kate Moss. Curves, not bones.”
2012年,我跟一群20多岁的女性谈起媒体的身材报道带给她们的压力。她们告诉我,压力不是要极端的瘦,而是要看起来性感。“每个人都想看起来像金·卡戴珊,而不是凯特·摩丝。
要追求曲线美,而不是骨感美。”
Which sounded like a positive development, a move away from disordered eating and dangerous attempts at control, until they pointed out that it also requires a tiny waist. (DIV)You can starve yourself bony, but “the sexy body is much more unattainable”.
这听起来是个积极的进步,将女性从饮食紊乱和不计后果控制身材的危险念头中拯救出来,但问题是——这个曲线美还包括细腰。你可以通过节食变得瘦骨嶙峋,但是“性感的身材可望而不可即”。
In 2014, the focus turned to the bottom. Butt lift injections and buttock implants were the fastest-growing plastic surgery in the US, up 58% from 2012. The French sociologist Jean-Claude Kaufmann cited economic reasons. “In uncertain times, people look for security,”he said.
2014年,臀部整形成为新热点。在美国,接受隆臀注射和臀部假体植入的人数在所有整形手术中增长最快,较2012年增加了58%。法国社会学家Jean Claude Kaufmann引用了经济原因。“在经济不稳定的年代,人们会寻求安全感。”
他说。
“Men are attracted to women’s hips and the buttocks for security and reassurance. Women respond to this. It’s deeply psychological.” Or, from Jennifer Lopez: “The bigger your butt is the more attention you get.” In 2015, the American Society of Plastic Surgery dubbed 2015 another “year of the rear”.
“男性为了寻求安全感和自信心,就会被女性的臀部所吸引。女性也会对此作出回应。其中有深层的心理原因。“或许,就像Jennifer Lopez所说的:“臀部越大,获得的关注就越多。”美国整形外科学会将2015年称为“臀部之年”。
Photograph: Matt Sayles/AP
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‘The bigger your butt is the more attention you get’: Jennifer Lopez, pictured above with Tom Cruise.
Jennifer Lopez和 Tom Cruise的合影:‘臀部越大,吸引的目光越多’
And then came the deaths, 33 of them in the US following complications from BBLs in the last five years.
而手术造成的死亡接踵而至。在过去五年中,美国有33人死于BBL臀部整形手术后的并发症。
Today, the aesthetic ideals of pornography have seeped into the mainstream. If a woman isn’t built with a big bum, exercise might reshape it, but there’s no diet that can create it, hence the booming business in surgery and cosmetic procedures, as well as entry-level purchases, such as firming creams and “butt lift” leggings.
如今,性感的外形已渗入了主流审美。如果一个女人没有丰满的臀部,她也许可以通过锻炼来帮助塑形,但是没有任何的节食方法可以帮助她实现这一点。手术和美容业因此生意兴隆,紧致和“提臀”健美裤这类入门级产品也销量剧增。
At an average cost of £3,000 abroad and £8,000 in the UK, the BBL uses liposuction to extract fat from a patient’s thighs to then inject it into their buttocks, but less invasive treatments proliferate. Nearly 320,000 buttock augmentation or buttock lift procedures were performed globally in 2015, according to the International Society of Aesthetic and Cosmetic Surgery, a 30% increase in the number of procedures since 2014.
BBL手术抽取病人大腿上的脂肪,再填充入她们的臀部。
微创手术的方式更加普遍。这种手术在国外的平均花费为3000英镑,在英国为8000英镑,据国际美容整形学会称,2015年,全球范围内总共进行了近32万例隆臀和提臀手术,比于2014年增长了30%。
“My generation are 100% more interested in the shape of our bottoms, rather than our boobs,” 24-year-old Beth Cobb told a newspaper, explaining her investment in weekly bum-lift procedures using a roller that emits microcurrents of electricity.
24岁的Beth Cobb每周都要花钱去做微电流滚筒提臀,她向媒体解释:“比起胸部,我们这代人100%更关注臀部的塑形。”
“It’s probably because we see a lot more celebs showing them off on Instagram. Now we have the technology, we can make our bodies change to fit the trends, not just change what we wear.”
也许这是因为我们看到了许多在Instagram上炫耀翘臀的名人。现在的技术可以使我们将自己的身材塑造成主流审美的那样,而不是仅仅改变穿着。”
Instagram, that seductive hellmouth where women holiday in their lunchbreaks, contributes to the growth of bums in a number of ways. There are the celebrities, yes, sharing their “belfies”.
Instagram,女人们在午餐间隙都忍不住去刷的诱惑深渊,在一定程度上造成了女性对美臀的追求。有些名人喜欢发自己的臀部照片。
There is the fetishisation of the bodies of black and Latina women. Kim Kardashian’s 2014 naked shoot by Jean-Paul Goude for Paper magazine, arguably the launchpad for the body trend that is today called “thicc”, was inspired by Goude’s (who is white) 1976 portrait of Carolina Beaumont, who is black; the portrait was published in his book Jungle Fever.
人们越来越迷恋黑人和拉丁裔女性的身材。Jean-Paul Goude在2014年为Paper杂志所拍摄的Kim Kardashian的裸照,可以说是如今追求“前凸后翘”热潮的开端。这组照片是Goude(白人)受到了他1976年为Carolina Beaumont(黑人)所拍摄的肖像的启发,这张肖像被印在了他一本名为《丛林热》的书上。
The big butt trend is sold as a step towards greater body acceptance
追求丰满臀部的趋势被看作是接受更大身体的一步
In 2014, American Vogue declared the big bum on trend... for white women: as soon as a trend goes mainstream, women of colour are eliminated from the story. “So common is the process, it has its own Twitter hashtag,” wrote Yomi Adegoke.
2014年,美版Vogue称白人女性开始追求大臀部:一旦这一潮流成为主流,有色人种的女性就会被排除在外。Yomi Adegoke写道:“这个过程太显而易见了,它在推特上甚至都有标签。”
“#Columbising – when, like Christopher Columbus, white people think they have discovered something that was already in existence.” There is also the rise of “body positivity”, of women sharing pictures of curves they’d been taught were shameful.
“#Columbising,意思是白人像克里斯托弗·哥伦布一样,认为他们发现了一些早已存在的东西。”同时,“Body positivity身体自爱”运动兴起:女性开始分享展露身体曲线的照片——她们之前被教导这是可耻的。
And there is Instagram as a platform for cosmetic surgeons to advertise directly at women who, tipsy on the combination of insecurity and images of arses as empowerment, will click through to adjust their own.
此外还有Instagram,它充当了美容外科医生向女性推广的平台。有些女性缺乏自信,容易被有赋权作用的臀部图像所动摇,会点击这些广告来改变自己。
The latest post from Elite Aftercare, a clinic in Turkey (home of medical tourism) is a headless portrait of a happy customer, photographed from the front and from behind and tagged #BBL, #choices and #mybody.
土耳其一家叫Elite Aftercare的诊所的最新帖子是一幅快乐顾客的无头像(照片从前后两个角度拍摄),并带上话题#BBL、#选择 和#我的身体。
Scroll through to September, and there’s an update about a post-mortem on another of its patients, Leah Cambridge. She was a mother of three from Leeds, who, following this procedure, died on the operating table in August.
翻到9月份,则会看到另一位顾客的验尸报告。这个顾客叫Leah Cambridge,是利兹(英国英格兰北部城市)三个孩子的母亲。八月,在做这套整形程序期间,她死在了手术台上。
(注:土耳其有“医疗旅游之国”之称)
新闻来源丨美国有线电视新闻网
图片来源丨 美国有线电视新闻网 网络
指导教师丨刘佳
编译丨苏娟 张殷雯 范仪亦 陈宁
排版丨陈宁

