随着维密大秀收视和市场份额双双下滑，“瘦即是美”的传统审美正面临新的挑战。新兴公司如何做大做强？甚至男女通吃？一起来探究内衣行业的新风向～
图片来源：CNN
For decades, padded push-up bras, lace-lined bodysuits and slim, voluptuous Victoria's Secret models have shaped public perceptions of what "sexy" looks like. But a growing number of lingerie brands are responding to discontent from consumers who want to see themselves better represented.
几十年来，维密模特的衬垫聚拢胸罩、蕾丝衬里的紧身连衫裤以及苗条撩人的身材，塑造了公众对“性感”的定义。但其他体型的消费者也希望能够更好的展现自己的身材，于是越来越多的内衣品牌对这些消费者的不满做出了回应。
From offering a wider range of cup sizes and "nude" shades, to celebrating diversity in campaigns and on runways, intimate apparel labels are selling more than bras. They're selling inclusivity, too.
从提供更大范围的罩杯尺寸和“裸色”色调，到通过各种活动和T台来庆祝内衣的多样性，内衣品牌的销量超过了文胸。而且除了多样性，内衣的包罗性也在被推销。
Sales figures published by retail technology firm, Edited, suggest that bralettes and sports bras are increasingly preferred to cleavage-enhancing push-up bras. Victoria's Secret may still lead the pack with a reported 24% market share in the US, but it recently announced plans to shutter more than 50 stores following slow holiday season sales.
由零售科技公司Edited发布的销售数据显示，越来越多的人更喜欢无胸垫文胸和运动文胸，而不是加深乳沟的托举式乳罩。据报道，维密在美国的市场份额为24%，可能仍居首位，但由于假期销售低迷，该公司最近宣布计划关闭50多家门店。
The closures come amid growing competition from newer brands, many of which are catering to broader tastes. Customers are embracing lingerie that encompasses alternative forms of sex appeal, and increasingly buying from brands that prioritize body positivity, comfort and proper fit.
这些工厂关闭之际，来自新品牌的竞争日益激烈，其中许多新品牌正在迎合更广阔的需求。消费者开始接受包含多种性感形式的内衣，并更多地从那些注重身体健康、舒适和合适身材的品牌商购买内衣。
图片来源：CNN
维密势微的部分原因是消费者不再“买”它的品牌定位了！维密大秀的吸引力也没有那么大了，大家开始转向健康、合适，而不是瘦、瘦、瘦。穿得不好看就是因为你不够瘦，你够瘦才能穿得好看？拒绝！维密一时难以转向，就让更多新品牌有了崛起的机会：
Sizing up
内衣“做大”
Independent labels, like US startup ThirdLove, have filled a gap in the market by serving women who struggle to find bras in the right size. When Heidi Zak co-founded the brand in 2011, she simply wanted to provide bras that fit better than those at her previous go-to store, Victoria's Secret.
美国初创公司像ThirdLove等独立品牌，它们为那些很难找到合适尺寸文胸的女性提供了服务，由此填补了这一市场空白。Heidi Zak在2011年与伙伴共同创立了这个品牌，她只是想提供比她之前去过的Victoria’s Secret店里更合身的文胸。
Using 600 million data points across metrics including breast shape and cup fit, ThirdLove promotes half-cup sizes. Today, the online-only brand offers 78 different sizes -- and is worth an estimated $750 million, according to Forbes.
ThirdLove通过6亿个包括乳房形状和罩杯尺寸在内的数据点集，推广了半罩杯尺寸。据Forbes统计，如今，这个只在网上销售的品牌共有78种不同的尺码，品牌价值约7.5亿美元。
But offering more sizes can be an expensive endeavor. The inflexibility of factory production makes it difficult to cater to everyone, according to Cora Harrington, author of the book "In Intimate Detail: How to Choose, Wear, and Love Lingerie."
但生产更多尺寸的胸衣也提高了成本。Corra Harrington是《私密小事：如何选择、穿戴并爱上内衣》一书的作者。她说，工厂生产固定几个尺寸的胸衣很难满足每个人的需要。
"There are so many parts to a bra, sizes and variations to breasts, that it's impossible for any one brand to service every single bra-wearing customer adequately," she said in a phone interview.
她在接受电话采访时说到：“生产胸罩时有太多考量因素，尺寸大小，胸型各异，所以要求任何品牌设计出一款让所有女性都满意的胸罩是不可能的。”
According to Harrington, who also founded the Lingerie Addict blog, a single bra can contain at least 20 individual components, including lace, closures and straps. For a luxury garment, this number can swell to 40 or 50, she said.
Harrington同时还成立了“内衣上瘾博客”。她说一个胸罩至少有20多种部件，包括蕾丝、搭扣和肩带，如果是奢侈品牌的内衣，部件数量可能会高达40到50种。
Add the precision sewing and pattern-making required to adjust for different sizes, then piece everything together, and it can create a product that costs more than "what people feel is appropriate to pay for a bra."
再加上精准密缝纫和制版来进行调整，然后将所有部件拼接在一起，这样一来内衣定价比人们预期的内衣价格要贵。
"(To) serve an adequate range of people," Harrington added, "you're looking at 50 to 60 sizes to start, which is far beyond what most indie designers or new brands are able to afford.
Harrington补充说：“要是想满足尽可能多的女性群体，你需要从50到60个尺码开始设计生产，这远远超出了大多数独立设计师或新品牌所能承受的。”
"Consumer expectations are a little bit misaligned with product design and development ... people are used to fast-fashion cycles (and seeing) something on a runway, then seeing a knock-off two weeks later."
“消费者的期望与产品设计和开发有点不一致……人们已经习惯了时尚的飞速迭代更新，以及T台上让人应接不暇的新品，然后在两周后看到新品的仿制品。”
Some lingerie makers have nonetheless found ways to profitably expand their size ranges, contributing to what Harrington calls a "bra size war."
尽管如此，一些内衣制造商还是找到了扩大内衣尺寸范围并从中获利的方法，这就促成了Harrington所说的“文胸尺寸大战”。
图片来源：CNN
现在大众对性取向的多样性越来越包容，内衣行业也十分关注一些特殊人群，而且还在肤色差异问题上努力迎合市场：
Diverse customers
多样化的客人
The growing lingerie market is providing greater choice to another group of customers it has traditionally underserved: transgender shoppers.
不断增长的内衣市场给另一群顾客提供了更多的选择：跨性别消费者。传统市场并不能满足这类顾客的需求。
Montreal-based Origami Customs offers gender-affirming lingerie to transgender customers, among others. With trans visibility at an all-time high, the brand has doubled sales over the last four years, according to founder Rae Hill.
内衣品牌Origami Customs的总部位于蒙哥利尔，它为变性顾客提供了特定内衣，这种内衣对于他们的性别给予了肯定。由于跨性别者的话题热度高居不下，据创始人Rae Hill所说，该品牌的销量在过去四年翻了一番。
The label has recently expanded its line of binders, an undergarment used to flatten the chest, that it models on transmasculine customers. Gaffs, a type of underwear used for tucking, make up nearly half of the products that Origami Customs sells.
这个牌子最近扩大了束胸的生产线，束胸内衣是为了让胸部看起来平坦，是为跨性别顾客量身定做的。它还有一款掩盖胯部的束裤，销量在该品牌总销量中占近一半。
"I take the time to work with each customer one-on-one, and I do feel that this creates a level of safety and intimacy that isn't available in the mainstream market，" Hill said in an email interview.
Rae Hill在邮件采访中说：“我花时间给每个顾客一对一的服务，我真切地感到这种模式创造了主流市场不能给予的安全性和私密性，”
"Being sexy is as different as each one of us," Hill added.
他后来补充道：“性感这件事因人而异，每个人都有自己独特的性感。”
Racial diversity is also a growing force in the lingerie market. Take Rihanna's label, which has been praised for producing a variety of "nude" tones for different skin colors. Similarly, ThirdLove's recent line of T-shirt bras offers nine shades of "naked."
种族差异性问题也是内衣市场的卖点。比如黑人女星Rihanna的品牌为不同的肤色人群提供了多种“裸色”，该品牌因而建立了口碑。类似的，ThirdLove 最近的T恤文胸系列产品提供了九种深浅不同的“裸色”。
Before either of them, London-based disruptor Nubian Skin became one of the first brands to offer nude tones for women of color when it launched in 2014.
在Thirdlove和Rihanna的品牌之前，Nubian Skin成为首批为不同肤色女性提供不同裸色调的品牌，这个标新立异的品牌于2014年面世，总部位于伦敦。
"We saw a lot of brands debut their own nude tones in the years immediately after the launch of Nubian Skin," Harrington said.
Harrington说：“在Nubian Skin面世后的几年里，我们看到许多品牌首次推出了自己的裸色系列产品。”
"Some of those brands have since rolled back (their selection) because they didn't market them very well --if you're going to sell nude tone bras in deeper skin tones, it would help to use models of color.
“一些品牌撤回他们的一些产品，是因为他们没有做好市场推广工作 - 如果你想销售深肤色的裸色文胸，邀请肤色较深的模特来担任广告，效果会更好。
"I hope that, for these companies (new brands like ThirdLove and Savage X) it's not a trend (but) something they plan to stick with."
“我希望那些新兴起的品牌，比如ThirdLove和Savage X，对他们来说这种包容服务不仅是一种短暂流行趋势，而是他们想要长久坚持下去的。”
图片来源：CNN
听说不是专业模特也可以走秀？
A matter of representation
高调表达包容性
Inclusivity isn't just about selling lingerie to diverse customers -- it's about doing so visibly. This means using models of all shapes, sizes and colors in fashion shows and campaigns.
内衣体现的包容性不仅仅是把不同的内衣卖给不同需求的顾客，而是要把这种观念高调展示出来。这意味着，出没于时装秀和活动中的内衣模特身材、罩杯和肤色都要尽可能多样化。
Take Lonely Lingerie, for instance, which claims to portray women in a realistic way by refusing to use Photoshop -- or even hair and makeup stylists -- in its campaigns. The brand's models include women with 35 different bra sizes and from a variety of backgrounds.
我们以Lonely Lingerie为例，这个品牌声称要以最真实的形式塑造女性形象，绝对不会在广告中给模特修图（甚至不会修饰发型和妆容），该品牌的模特出身背景不同，穿着35种不同尺寸的内衣。
"We really wanted to give the power ... to the person being shot -- how they want to be shot, how are they most comfortable and involving the woman in that process," Morris said in a phone interview.
Morris在接受电话采访时表示，“我们是真的想把选择权交给模特 – 让她们自己选择最舒服的拍摄方式，让女性参与到这个过程中。”
Plus-size label Curvy Couture also sees the use of diverse models as an important step towards inclusivity, according to social media marketing manager, Summer Rose.
据社交媒体营销经理Summer Rose称，Curvy Couture这个品牌专门设计大罩杯的胸罩。该品牌也认为，如果想要服务范围更广的女性顾客，模特的多样性十分重要。
"We have a ton of fit models that come in -- different sizes, different ages, moms who are post-breastfeeding -- just so we can really make sure that the fit is supportive," she said in a phone interview. "No matter what stage in life she is in, we want to make sure she feels her best."
她在电话采访中表示道：“我们招了很多健康的模特，他们身材和年龄都不同，有的还是哺乳后期的母亲。只有这样我们才能真正帮助消费者买到适合她们的胸罩。无论她现在处于人生的哪个阶段，我们都希望她能做最自信的自己。”
来源 | CNN Style
整理 排版 | 顾贝盈
翻译 | 顾贝盈 陈宁 阿孜姑 王姝
指导老师 | 刘佳