World's cheapest draft? Where to try bia hoi, Hanoi's 25 cent beer
仅售25美分!世界上最实惠的生啤在河内
As soon as the sun sets in Hanoi, Vietnam, there's only one place to be: the corner of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen streets.
在越南首都河内,太阳落山后,人们都去哪儿了?肯定是去Ta Hien街和Luong Ngoc Quyen街角了。
Known as "Beer Corner", this famous intersection in the Old Quarter lures travelers and residents alike to socialize over ice-cold bia hoi (light Vietnamese draft beer) atop tiny plastic stools.
这个位于Old Quarter的网红十字路口,被人们称为“啤酒角”——无论游人还是当地居民,都纷至沓来,坐在一个个简陋的小塑料凳上,满上一杯杯冰镇的bia hoi,享受这种越南当地生啤所带来的独特风味。
A visit to Beer Corner isn't just about enjoying a few brews -- it's also a window into the history of the city.
“啤酒角”的宿醉,并不仅仅为了那一抹酒香,它同时也是一扇窗户,映射着整座城市的历史。
"If you really want to get up close and personal with the culture of a new city, in particular the culture of the local people, you need to stroll the sidewalks, sit on a stool and have a nice cold beer," Brett MacDouall, co-founder of Hanoi Beer Tour, tells CNN Travel.
在接受CNN旅游频道采访时,Hanoi Beer Tour 的联合创始人Brett MacDouall说道:“如果你想近距离地接触、体验河内的文化,尤其是居民们的文化生活,你得在人行道上散散步,找个路边摊坐下来,喝上一口醇正的冰啤。”
"And that's what I love about Ta Hien Street."
“当然,那也是我钟情于Ta Hien街的地方。”
Bonding over beer
因啤酒结缘
Bia hoi, Vietnam's draft beer, is the go-to refreshment on Ta Hien Street.
Photo: HOANG DINH NAM/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
It's on Ta Hien Street where MacDouall and co-founder Tan Vu met for the first time in 2005.
就是在Ta Hien街,MacDouall与合作伙伴Tan Vu2005年在这里相遇。
While chatting over beer, the two men discovered their fathers both fought in the Vietnam War, albeit on opposing sides.
酒桌上闲聊时,他俩发现他们的父亲都参加过越战,只不过是敌军。
"So here were two boys, both born in 1974 who grew up in the 1980s," says MacDouall. "I suppose you could say, ideologically, we were very opposed."
MacDouall说道:“两个老男孩,都在1974年出生、在80年代长大,我猜你肯定会觉得,在意识形态上,我俩势不两立。”
"But the first time we sat down over a cold beer and spoke to one another, we realized that our family values were very similar and have become the best of friends."
“但当我们初识,坐下来喝酒谈天时,我们发现彼此家庭的价值观有许多契合之处,因此,我们成为了很好的朋友。”
Today, the two men aren't just best buds -- they're also business partners, traipsing around the city with travelers to explore and share the city's stories of beer.
现在,他们不仅是生活上的好伙伴,更是生意上的拍档,和游客们一道穿梭在河内的大街小巷,探索、分享这座城市的啤酒秘事。
Bia hoi basics
淡啤之源
Bia hoi, Vietnam's draft beer, is the go-to refreshment on Ta Hien Street.
Photo: HOANG DINH NAM/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
The first brewery in Hanoi opened in the 1890s, when the French controlled the city.
河内最早的啤酒厂开办于法国统治下的19世纪90年代。
"The French brought the beer drinking culture to Vietnam," says MacDouall. "Before that, [people drank] rice wine."
MacDouall说:“法国人为越南带来了啤酒文化,在那之前,越南人只喝米酒。”
After the Hanoi beer brewing factory was set up, beer culture caught on quickly.
Today, Vietnam is one Asia's biggest beer-drinking nations, consuming 3.8 billion liters a year in 2016, according to Ministry of Industry and Trade.
啤酒厂开办后,啤酒文化开始在河内流行开来。现如今,越南是亚洲最大的啤酒消费国之一,据越南工贸部的数据统计,2016年,越南的啤酒消费量达到了38亿升。
"It evolved through workers [who enjoyed beer] after a hard day's work," says MacDouall. "It was also curiosity -- people wanted to see what Westerners were drinking."
“其实这源于一种好奇心——酒厂的越南工人们在一整天的辛劳之后,想看看西方人到底喝些什么——不久,啤酒文化便在他们中流行,并扩散、发展。” MacDouall补充道。
At the time, however, the beer was expensive, marketed to the city's upper crust.
It wasn't until the late 1950s that bia hoi was introduced as an affordable options for everyday citizens. A brewery opened on Ta Hien Street, selling the fresh lager at just a few cents a mug.
但那时啤酒还很贵,仅面向上流社会销售。
直到20世纪50年代,bia hoi成为河内市民的日常消费品,这种局面才被打破。那时,一家啤酒厂在Ta Hien街开张,一杯新鲜的淡啤,只卖几分钱,物美价廉。
This local staple is a light and refreshing lager, with an alcohol content of less than 3%.
作为本地美食的“主打款”,这种啤酒清淡而爽口,酒精含量也不到3%。
The idea? You can drink it for long sessions to cool off after working all day in Hanoi's sweltering temperatures.
在闷热的河内工作了一整天,你可以约友畅谈共酌,尽情享受淡啤带来的清凉,祛除暑热。
"Some will actually say it is 'instant beer' like instant noodles, since it is made quickly and sold quickly," explains MacDouall.
MacDouall阐释道:“有人会说bia hoi更像是速溶啤酒,它跟方便面一样,制作得快,卖得也快。”
"The alcohol content is low and that was because people wanted to consume it rapidly."
“酒精含量低,因为人们希望能够一饮而尽。”
Over the years, countless bars and restaurants have populated Ta Hien Street, bring with them swathes of tiny stools and metal tables that flank both sides of the sidewalk.
这些年来,Ta Hien街边随处可见大大小小的酒吧和餐馆,街道两侧的人行道上,挤满了小板凳和餐桌,以及络绎不绝的食客。
All new brews
新啤驾到
In the evening you sit at a roadside bar drinking excellent homebrewed Czech-style 'Bia Hoi' beer and watch as Hanoi's backstreets are converted into a living street theatre.
Photo: Mark Eveleigh, CNN
Still today, bia hoi is relatively affordable when compared with international labels. A glass of the light lager could set you back anywhere from 15 to 40 US cents.
But that's slowly changing.
时至今日,与国际品牌相比,bia hoi还是相对实惠的,一杯淡啤只卖15到40美分左右。
但这种情况正在悄然改变。
"For local owners, selling bia hoi doesn't create enough money to sustain the business," says MacDouall.
MacDouall说:“对于当地商人来说,仅仅出售bia hoi并不能赚到足够的钱来维持生计。”
"So they would rather sell bottled beer and focus on food. But if you still want bia hoi, this is where you come and get it."
“他们开始关注瓶装啤酒和副食品领域,但你如果仍单纯地向往bia hoi的甘醇,河内还是你的必选之地。”
And if you want something other than lager?
如果你想尝试啤酒之外的东西呢?
Enthusiasts can easily track down local microbreweries and craft beer bars that pour more creative concoctions.
啤酒爱好者们可以了解一下当地的小啤酒厂和手工啤酒吧,那里有更具创意的啤酒调制品。
Furbrew, on the banks of West Lake, for example, serves a 'pho' beer that mimics the flavors of the famous dish with a malty, herby, slightly spicy recipe.
例如,位于河内西湖畔的Furbrew就供应一种pho啤酒,它的风味因袭了一道带有麦芽味、略显辛辣的名菜。
"This is probably the greatest example of the evolution of Vietnam," says MacDouall.
MacDouall说道:“这或许是越南发展的最好例证。”
"Ta Hien started with bia hoi and moved to mass-produced bottled beers, and now you have an exploding craft beer scene."
“从bia hoi起家,Ta Hien街逐渐转向瓶装啤酒的大规模生产,现在,手工啤酒的爆炸式增长又成为了街中一景。”
来源:CNN Travel
编译:杨二一
排版:杨二一
指导老师:刘佳
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