还看今朝，小金人强势回归
The 93rd annual Academy Awards took place across two LA venues, where up to 170 guests, nominees and presenters were permitted to gather. Usually held in February, the Oscars were pushed back by over two months in the hopes that loosening Covid-19 restrictions would allow for a more lavish affair.
近期，第93届奥斯卡在洛杉矶两处场馆举行，多达170位嘉宾、提名人以及颁奖者相聚于此。奥斯卡通常在每年的二月份举行，但今年推迟了两个月，寄希望于疫情随时间延后有所好转，届时防疫管制的放松便能让活动更加盛大。
Organizers eschewed a Zoom-centered event, meaning attendees have dispensed with the "waist up" fashion statements we've grown accustomed to in recent months. Instead, stars walked a socially distanced red carpet -- albeit one that is far shorter than in previous years -- where a small group of photographers awaited.
最近几个月中，我们已经习惯了明星以“上半身”的时尚形象线上出席活动，但这次奥斯卡举办方并没有在Zoom上举办盛宴，相反，明星们在一定的社交距离下现场走完了红毯，但今年红毯较往年短了很多，而且只有一小群摄影师进行拍摄。
When it came to inclusion at the 2021 Oscars, it was categories behind the camera that saw multiple milestones take place. Among everyone who took home at least one statuette at the 2021 Oscars, 25 are white men, eight are white women, four are Black men, four are Black women, two are Latino men, one is a Latina woman and three are Asian women.
2021年奥斯卡获奖者充分体现了包容多样性，镜头背后的奖项见证了数个里程碑式事件。在所有获奖者中，有25位白种男性，8位白种女性，4位黑人女性，2位拉丁裔男性，1位拉丁裔女性以及3位亚裔女性。
直击现场，年度红毯ootd
ootd：Outfit of the Day，意为今日穿搭
Awards season offers cinephiles the opportunity to celebrate the film industry’s greatest talents but for fashion fans the red carpet where the allure really lies. here are The Best-Dressed Stars at the 2021 Academy Awards listed by Vogue :
颁奖季为影迷们提供了褒奖电影业杰出人才的宝贵机会，但对于时尚迷来说，红毯才是真正让人沉醉的地方。《Vogue》杂志列出了2021年奥斯卡的最佳红毯着装明星:
Margot Robbie穿戴香奈儿高级定制礼服和珠宝
Zendaya穿着华伦天奴礼服
左图：Carey Mulligan穿着华伦天奴礼服
右图：Halle Berry身着杜嘉班纳礼服
演员尹汝贞和Han Yeri身着路易威登品牌礼服
维奥拉·戴维斯身着亚历山大麦昆礼服
左图：拉基斯·史坦菲德身着圣罗兰礼服
右图：Amanda Seyfried身着阿玛尼高级定制
雷吉娜·金身着LV（路易威登）礼服
左图：Angela Bassett身着意大利品牌阿尔伯特-菲尔蒂
右图：Celeste 身着古驰礼服
身着汤姆·布朗品牌礼服的艾伦·金和维姬·金
Riz Ahmed 身着普拉达西装
Fatima Farheen身着华伦天奴礼服
Olivia Colman身着迪奥高级定制礼服
左图：身着范思哲高定系列的Colman Domingo
右图：H.E.R.穿着Dundas礼服
一眼万年，尽数风流人物
Twenty years ago – and the most memorable moment of the 73rd Academy Awards – happened on the red carpet, when the Icelandic musician Björk appeared wearing a dress that resembled a swan. It was a crystal-encrusted body stocking surrounded by a puff of white tulle, with a long neck that draped around her own, the orange beak resting on her chest. Her accessories were a trail of eggs, that she “laid” as she walked down the red carpet.
二十年前，第73届奥斯卡颁奖典礼上演了最难忘的一幕，冰岛音乐家比约克身穿天鹅裙亮相红毯。天鹅裙是一件镶有水晶的连身袜，它周围裹着一层白色薄纱充当天鹅的身体，“天鹅”长长的脖子垂挂她的脖子上，橙色的喙则搁在她胸前。其配饰是一串“天鹅蛋”，比约克走在红地毯上用它模拟“天鹅下蛋”。
比约克身穿天鹅裙在红毯“下蛋”
Björk – nominated that year for best original song for I’ve Seen it All from Dancing In The Dark (in which she also starred) – wasn’t likely to show up in a classic black gown. A few weeks earlier at the Golden Globes, she’d worn an outfit featuring Michael Jackson’s face in sequins, accessorised with an owl-shaped handbag. And yet no-one expected this – and the reactions were vicious. “The girl should be put into an asylum,” sniped Joan Rivers.
比约克在电影《黑暗中的舞者》里的歌曲《 I’ve Seen it All》，获得了那年奥斯卡最佳原创歌曲的提名，同时她也在电影中担任主角。但即使如此，她也不太可能穿着规矩传统的黑色礼服亮相。几周前的金球奖上，她穿了一件用亮片描摹迈克尔·杰克逊形象的礼服，还搭配了一个猫头鹰形状的手提包。然而，没人预料到她会这么穿，许多人对她恶语相向。“这个女孩应该被送进精神病院，”Joan Rivers冷冷地说。
比约克穿着带有亮片版迈克尔·杰克逊的礼服
But 20 years later, Björk’s dress – by Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski – has gone down as one of the most iconic Oscar outfits ever, and the initial ridicule has transformed into – if not reverence – then certainly fondness.
但二十年后的今天，比约克这条由马其顿设计师Marjan Pejoski设计的裙子成为了奥斯卡史上最具标志性的服装之一，最初的嘲笑即使没有转变为崇敬，至少也可以说是喜爱了。
Caroline Stevenson, head of cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion, says there was a disconnect between what is expected of women on the red carpet – and what Björk gave people.
伦敦时装学院文化和历史研究负责人Caroline Stevenson表示，人们对红毯女星的期望和比约克所呈现的形象存在脱节。
“There is this convention of female glamour and female celebrity and desire that gets played out through the red carpet and through these beautiful gowns,” says Stevenson. “But Björk was literally dressed like a swan and she laid these eggs, and there was something in there about femininity and ideas of nurture, nature and fertility. I think people did not want to associate that with the red carpet.”
Stevenson说：“通常女性的魅力、名誉和欲望都会通过红毯和美丽的礼服表现出来。但是比约克打扮得真的就像一只天鹅，她还在红毯上下了蛋，其中蕴含着女性特质、养育、本性、繁衍的相关内涵，我认为人们并不想把这些内容和红毯联系在一起。”
In the decades leading up to that, there had been plenty of other memorable Oscar fashion moments: Demi Moore turning up in lace-trimmed cycling shorts in 1989; Sharon Stone wearing her husband’s white Gap shirt tucked into a Vera Wang skirt in 1998; Celine Dion’s back-to-front white tuxedo in 1999. And, of course, Cher’s incredible Bob Mackie designs throughout the 1970s and 80s (including a 2ft-high feather headpiece in 1986, and her diamond encrusted “naked” dress in 1988).
在那之前的几十年里，奥斯卡还有很多令人难忘的时尚经典时刻：1989年黛米摩尔身着蕾丝骑行短裤亮相；1998年莎朗斯通穿着她丈夫的白色Gap衬衫，并把它塞进华裔设计师王薇薇设计的裙装里；1999年席琳迪翁穿着前后颠倒的白色燕尾服，以及在七八十年代，雪儿身着Bob Mackie设计的一系列惊人红毯礼服，其中包括有1986年那2英尺高的羽毛头饰，以及1988年的镶钻“裸”裙。
1989年黛米摩尔身着蕾丝骑行短裤
1998年莎朗斯通穿着丈夫的白色Gap衬衫，下搭Vera Wang裙
1999年席琳迪翁前后颠倒的白色燕尾服
雪儿的镶钻“裸裙”、夸张羽毛头饰
Post Björk’s appearance though, the 21st-Century Oscar red carpet provided few surprises. With the pre-show becoming as important as the ceremony itself, and critics and viewers ready to rate each outfit, no one wanted to stand out for the wrong reasons. The Oscars red carpet was also morphing into a place that was as much for commerce as it was for fashion, with luxury brands paying big sums for celebrities to wear their designs.
尽管比约克的造型顺利出圈，但21世纪的奥斯卡红毯新意却很少。随着红毯展示变得和颁奖典礼一样重要，而评论家和观众也都在认真审视每一套服装，没有哪个明星想因为造型出错“脱颖而出”。奢侈品牌会花重金请名人穿他们设计的礼服，奥斯卡红毯也逐渐兼具时尚性和商业性。
More recently though, a handful of celebrities have taken it upon themselves to bring some drama back to the red carpet – most notably, Pose star Billy Porter. The actor has become known for his elaborate red-carpet get-ups – such as a bejewelled catsuit with 10ft-high wings at the Met Gala (where he was carried in by six shirtless men). At the 2019 Oscars, he grabbed attention with a full-skirted Christian Siriano tuxedo gown and, last year, a bespoke gold and printed Giles Deacon creation inspired by Kensington Palace.
但在最近，少部分名人开始以为红毯增添戏剧性为己任，其中最著名的是造型明星Billy Porter。他以夸张的红毯造型走红——比如在Met Gala晚会上，他穿着一条镶满珠宝的紧身连衣裤，戴着一对10英尺的翅膀，并且由六名赤膊男子抬入晚会现场。在2019年的奥斯卡颁奖典礼上，他身着Christian Siriano无尾晚礼服配上宽下摆公主裙，抓人眼球。去年，他穿了由设计师Giles Deacon设计的金色印花高订礼服，其设计灵感来源于肯辛顿宫。
2019Met Gala，
Billy Porter身穿金光闪闪的“太阳神”套装
Met Gala：纽约大都会博物馆慈善舞会，于每年的5月初举行，目的是为纽约大都会艺术博物馆服装学院（现更名为安娜温图尔服装学院）筹集资金。其是时尚界最重要的一项盛事，入场券高达25000美金。早前的Met Gala 由VOGUE和BAZAAR两本时尚杂志轮流举办，后逐渐发展成为美国版VOGUE的年度活动。
Porter在2019年奥斯卡红毯上身穿无尾黑色西装大蓬裙
左图：Porter穿着金色印花高订礼服
右图：其设计灵感来源于肯辛顿宫
His stylist Ratelle thinks we’re seeing a shift towards celebrities wanting to “exude personality” – and that in itself is seeing them take a few more risks. “I think one of the things that’s dying is the fear of needing to be liked.” But in this context of the global epidemic, let’s be honest: Seeing anyone wear Real Clothes this year is both “inspirational and aspirational.”
Poter的造型师Ratelle认为，越来越多的名人想“展现个性”，这本身就意味着他们要承担一些风险。“我觉得当下人们越来越不在意他人的眼光与认可。” 而在全球疫情的背景下，老实说，今年能看到有人可以尽情打扮自己在户外展现魅力，本身就是一件鼓舞人心、令人向往的事。
不但奥斯卡的造型五花八门，中国明星也常在红毯上争奇斗艳，你觉得哪件look是你心中的最佳红毯着装？欢迎在下方留言与我们分享。
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图源网络
原文链接：
https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/oscars-diversity-historic-firsts-for-non-acting-categories-and-ceremony-accessibility
https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/red-carpet-fashion-at-the-2021-oscars/index.html
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20210420-bjork-swan-dress-a-reviled-oscars-outfit-thats-now-iconic
编译 ：张璐瑶 祖芃芃 谢曈 闫语格 张云杨
排版 ：张云杨