S T Y L E T R I B E S
Once upon a time, fashion subcultures were simple: you could see skaters, ravers and goths all milling around your local branch of Woolworths of a Saturday afternoon. But now the style tribes have moved online, and are more likely to be dressing up for TikTok and Instagram than the shops.
曾几何时，时尚亚文化并不复杂：每周六下午，在本地的沃尔沃斯超市分店里，人们都可以看到闲游的滑冰爱好者、狂欢者和哥特族——这就是当时的时尚亚文化。但如今，时尚的族群已经自现实涌入网络。比起为了出门购物而精心打扮，他们更可能为了在抖音和Ins这些平台上光鲜亮丽而装扮自己。
There has also been a bigger change: a splintering and multiplying, with fantasy and dress-up coming to the fore. It used to be easy to recognise a punk, for example, but now there are forestpunks, icepunks and even lunarpunks. If all this has your head spinning, let us cut through the confusion.
还有一个更大的变化：在奇幻风和穿搭意识登上时尚舞台的同时，各种新的时尚族群如雨后春笋般分化而出。比如，以往的朋克风格我们一观便知，但如今，面对森林朋克、冰朋克甚至月球朋克，我们还能轻易辨识吗？倘若这些时尚已让你眼花缭乱，那就让我们为你解惑吧！
Here are the biggest style tribes around at the moment and they are anything butcheugy...
以下这些时尚族群是当下最庞大的，也是最新潮的……
Baddie
“恶女系”风格
What it is: This look is body-con, retro-sexy, a bit Kardashian and probably for devotees of fast fashion. Think Regina George from the high-school movie Mean Girls. Or channelling Hot Girl Summer, but for the whole year.
时尚现象：这是一种着装紧致修身、复古性感、略带些卡戴珊风情的时尚，可能被喜好“快时尚”的人所钟爱。你可以联想一下高中生电影《贱女孩》中的角色Regina George的形象风格。你也可以联想到歌曲《辣妹夏日》MV中的穿搭风格——只不过在现实中，这种时尚并非“夏日限定”，而是常驻的“辣妹一整年”。
What it tells us: Fashion is experiencing its own Love Island* effect: necklines have lowered, skirt slits have got higher. Sex-positive dressing is a thing – see the “pin-top”. Baddie also proves that Mean Girls has not died.
时尚背后：如今，时尚界正经历着一场“恋爱岛*效应”：人们的领口比以往更低了，裙子的开衩也更高了。性积极主义的着装相当流行——看看这些裙子的开衩有多高！“恶女系”风格的存在证明了一件事：《贱女孩》中的时尚风格仍然影响着新一代人。
*Love Island：《恋爱岛》，一部英国恋爱真人秀节目，节目风格十分开放。
Minimalist
极简主义者
What it is: A “less is less” aesthetic that favours composed simplicity and mono-colour dressing. Keeping a capsule wardrobe* or shopping for bespoke secondhand pieces.
时尚现象：极简主义者钟情于“能简则简”的美学，偏爱整齐简单的服饰和单色的着装。一名极简主义者要么拥有一个极简胶囊衣橱，要么常常购买二手订制衣服。
*Capsule Wardrobe：胶囊衣橱，也称极简主义衣橱 。这个概念最早出现在七十年代，意思就是如胶囊般浓缩你的衣柜，留下一些经典必备单品，来组合出更多的搭配。
What it tells us: The pandemic has focused our minds on sustainable living and dressing, with an increase in people creating their curated capsule wardrobes to escape from over-consumption.
时尚背后：当下的疫情使我们着眼于可持续的生活，选择穿经典必备的着装。为了避免过度消费，越来越多的人选择精心设计自己的胶囊衣橱。
E-girl
电子系女孩
占位
E-boy
电子系男孩
What it is: Not really connected (at least in terms of fashion) to the E-girl. The E-boy is what would happen if you meshed skater style with a goth look and added Jack Grealish’s curtains*, plus some jewellery.
时尚现象：(至少在时尚角度)和"电子系女孩" 没太大关系。将街头滑板风和哥特元素混合,配上Jack Grealish式的飘逸发型*,再点缀几颗珠宝配饰,你就变成了一个电子系男孩。
*Jack Grealish’s curtains: Jack Grealish，曼城俱乐部球员杰克•格里利什。其发型轻盈飘逸，成为了今年的流行发型之一。
What it tells us: Dressing like a rebel is a difficult thing to pull off. Certain clothes may go in and out of style (the leather jacket, for example), but the surly, gangly teen boy is a surefire fashion staple.
时尚背后：打扮得如同一个叛逆男孩并不容易。有些服装游走在时尚和过时的边缘(比如皮夹克),但看起来不好惹的黑帮青年风一直是时尚界不可或缺的一部分。
已故美国男演员River Phoenix被视作E-boy风格的代表人物。此图拍摄于1991年，其于两年后意外离世。
VSCO girl*
VSCO女孩
What it is: A 90s throwback (scrunchies, shell necklaces, pastel T-shirts), heavily influenced by the surfer aesthetic (hi, Kate Bosworth in Blue Crush*) and anything to do with a Californian beach.
时尚现象：从发带、贝壳项链和彩色T恤等90年代元素的回归,到海边冲浪风的席卷（比如Kate Bosworth 出演的《蓝色激情》*），任何让人联想到加州海滩的元素，都是VSCO女孩的最爱。
*VSCO是一个图片编辑APP。该APP内的许多滤镜具有阳光清爽的加州风格。这种风格在TikTok上爆发般流行起来，使“VSCO girl”成为了一种时尚趋势。VSCO girl风格通常包括宽大的休闲服饰、短裤、发带、拍立得等等具有海滩气息的元素。此外，这种风格的追随者通常也崇尚环保主义，拒绝塑料吸管、海洋环境保护等，是追随者们关心的话题。
*Blue Crush: 2002年美国电影《蓝色激情》。图为电影海报。
What it tells us: Young people care about the planet (very gen Z) and the 90s/00s are now so historic they are considered vintage.
时尚背后：Z世代年轻人十分关心爱护这颗星球；此外，这表明90年代和00年代的风格已经被视为复古。
Cottagecore
童话田园风
What it is: A romantic, metropolitan idea of the lush outdoors look: Anne of Green Gables or Laura Ashley*. Cottagecore might be what happens when you’ve spent lockdown squirrelled away in a countryside bolthole or watched one too many episodes of ITV’s Love Your Garden*. In reality, it often looks like wearing clothes with dirt on them while trying to avoid cooking poisonous mushrooms.
时尚现象：童话田园风代表了城市居民对乡间野外生活的浪漫幻想。小说《绿山墙的安妮》、时尚品牌Laura Ashley*都是童话田园风追随者的最爱。如果你在与世隔绝的乡下度过了新冠隔离期，或是一口气看了太多集《花园大改造》*，你很有可能爱上童话田园风。在现实生活中，这种风格主要表现为穿着有泥点的衣服……不过得小心，别把毒蘑菇煮着吃了。
*Laura Ashley：英国品牌，以其浪漫、充满感性特质的印花图案和色彩，且深具英国传统特色与高雅气质的设计风格，渲染出一片英伦气氛。
*Love Your Garden：中文名为“花园大改造”，又名“爱上你的花园”，是英国独立电视台（ITV）播出的系列纪录片。节目旨在帮助英国人（主要是特殊人士）改造他们的花园。播出后获得极大好评。
What it tells us: With many of us crammed inside through the pandemic, the great outdoors became like an idyllic Eden.
时尚背后：疫情期间，人们被迫窝在家里太久，户外变成了田园诗般的伊甸园。
Goblincore
哥布林风
What it is: Bucolic, acid-aided and based in fantasy novels, it’s nature cosplay in Arran jumpers and stick-on pixie ears.
时尚现象：这种风格伴着田园诗版的酸涩气息，源自于奇幻小说。人们穿着套头衫、贴着小精灵耳朵，扮演自然角色。
Goblincore：哥布林，是民间传说里的类人生物，尖耳、鹰钩鼻、金鱼眼，生活在地下。受这种地精启发，人们创建了哥布林美学文化。那些被传统规范认为不那么美丽的自然元素，在哥布林美学里，是值得欣赏的对象。
What it tells us: The past few years have been stressful enough to mean some of us are dreaming of running away from reality to live inside a Terry Pratchett* novel.
时尚背后：过去几年的生活充满了压力，一些人梦想着逃离现实，住进奇幻小说里的世界。
Terry Pratchett：英国知名奇幻文学作家。代表作为《碟形世界》系列。其作品总销量已超过8500万册。
Y2K时尚
What it is: Fashion’s biggest retro aesthetic draws heavily from the late 90s and early 00s era of crop tops, bandage dresses and denim skirts. The holy trinity of Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan and Britney Spears are key here.
Y2K风（千禧年风）
时尚现象：最盛行的的复古美学潮流，回溯到90年代末期和00年代早期的露脐装、绷带裙和牛仔短裙。帕丽斯·希尔顿、林赛·罗韩、布兰妮·斯皮尔斯这三位时尚界巨星带起了这一风潮。
左起依次：帕丽斯·希尔顿、林赛·罗韩、布兰妮·斯皮尔斯
What it tells us: #FreeBritney* and This Is Paris* made us reassess our 00s attitudes. So why not the clothes, too?
时尚背后：#还布兰妮自由#这一话题和帕丽斯·希尔顿的纪录片This is Paris让我们重新审视00年代的价值观。所以，我们也可以再次穿上那个年代的服饰，不是吗？
*#FreeBritney：这个话题的发布与同名活动有关。这个活动是布兰妮的粉丝呼吁请求布兰妮的父亲Jamie Spears还布兰妮自由，取消监护权，让她过自己的生活。
*This Is Paris：帕丽斯·希尔顿 的全新个人纪录片。
Grandmacore
奶奶风
What it is: Old Hollywood wasn’t exactly the most progressive place, but damn it was glamorous. This aesthetic is not – as the name sounds – about Werther’s Originals and baggy tights, but instead pairs ballgowns and autumnal knits with a hefty dose of gee-shucks-Doris-Day wholesomeness and a soupcon of Disney twee.
时尚现象：老好莱坞未必是最新潮的地方，但它极富有魅力。这种时尚与它的名字呈现的不同，它不是有关Werther’s Originals奶油糖或宽松连裤袜的，而是公主蓬蓬裙和有着令人记忆犹新的多丽丝·戴的阳光朝气和一丝花哨迪士尼风的秋日针织衫。
多丽丝·戴
What it tells us: Last year, designers from immigrant backgrounds started making clothes in tribute to the pioneering older generation, prompting a trend for so-called “granddad dressing” that, similarly, plays tribute to the styles of a bygone age.
时尚背后：去年，移民设计师开始向的开创新时尚的老一辈们致敬，引领了和“奶奶风穿搭”相似的所谓“爷爷风穿搭”，向逝去时代的潮流致敬。
Vaporwave
蒸汽波时尚
What it is: The niche musical genre of chillwave, but with sweatshirts. Lots of neon and violet in this look.
时尚现象：一种专有的音乐风格：奇波，嫁接到服装领域，呈现在印着大片的霓虹色和紫色的运动衫上。
What it tells us: We all needed visual comfort blankets in the pandemic and fashion provided this by speeding up the nostalgic land grab with revivals of the 70s and 00s.
时尚背后：疫情时代，我们都需要“养眼”的视觉氛围。时尚界通过推动70年代和00年代的怀旧浪潮的复兴来提供这种视觉氛围。
Dark academia
暗黑校园风
What it is: School-uniform chic (more Dead Poets Society or original Gossip Girl than Hogwarts), with an added dose of dramatic mood lighting. Picture someone puffing on a fake cigarette, behind the bike shed, while leafing through The Secret History.
时尚现象：在夸张的气氛灯光下展现的校服时尚（更接近于《死亡诗社》和《绯闻女孩》中的校服风格，而不是霍格沃茨魔法学院的）。现在很流行拍摄在自行车棚边一口一口抽着假香烟，边迅速翻阅小说《秘史》的照片。
What it tells us: Much like the revival of the 80s “yuppies*” look, scholastic style is back thanks, in part, to fashion’s penchant for irony – and also because of its idealisation of all things bookish. Also we will always, always love a blazer.
时尚背后：这很像是对80年代雅皮士穿搭的复兴。学院风的卷土重来，某种程度上归功于时尚界的讽刺热潮。另一原因是学院风把书卷气理想化了。我们也永远永远会喜欢校服西装。
*yuppies：是指西方国家中年轻能干有上进心的一类人，他们一般受过高等教育，具有较高的知识水平和技能。
Coconut girl
椰子女孩
What it is: Wearing all the brightly coloured summer tops and dresses you panic-bought from the only shop at your holiday resort, but all year round. Lots of tangerine oranges, azure blues and swirly patterns.时尚现象：全年穿着所有你匆忙在旅游景点唯一一家店买的颜色亮丽的夏日上装和下装。这种风格的服饰往往是橘色、天蓝色，印着螺旋纹。
What it tells us: Before the amber list* was scrapped, many of our holiday plans were pure fantasy. And shows like The White Lotus made us crave an azure ocean.
时尚背后：在黄色清单停用前，我们大部分的假日计划只能是幻想。同时，像《白莲花度假村》这样的电视剧又让我们无比向往蔚蓝色的海洋。
黄色清单：从黄色清单上的国家入境英国的旅客需遵循目前英国较为复杂的隔离规定。
《白莲花度假村》剧照
What it is: Forget the Cure and Siouxsie Sioux, this is a totally different thing. There are touches of trad goth here, in the makeup and some of the clothes, but this look is more in debt to the cute, pink-centric Japanese aesthetic of kawaii.
时尚现象：请暂时忘记专辑Cure和哥特摇滚女歌手苏克西，粉彩哥特与这些截然不同。它在妆容和一些服饰上保留了传统哥特的气息，但更多地展现为萌萌的，充满粉红泡泡的日本卡哇伊美学。
What it tells us: Goth has always stood out as an original lifestyle and style statement, as have its many sub-divisions (including romantic goth). Pastel goth throws Hello Kitty into the mix.
时尚背后：哥特风一直以原始的生活理念和独特的风格宣言著称，同时它拥有包括罗曼蒂克哥特在内的许多分支。粉彩哥特将Hello Kitty卷入这场“哥特风暴”中。
Sad girl autumn
悲秋女孩
What it is: Dreamy, romantic and hopelessly melancholic. Think Taylor Swift’s big coat look on the cover of her album Evermore.
时尚现象：梦幻，浪漫和无可救药的忧郁。就像泰勒·斯威夫特的专辑《Evermore》封面上的大衣造型。
Evermore封面造型
What it tells us: The past 18 months saw many of us trade in our cool clothes for comfortable alternatives. Who needed to look cool when we spent the days working from our beds? Sad girl autumn suggests that we never quite got over living in our comfiest duvets.
时尚背后：过去的18个月里，我们中的不少人放下了对时髦先锋的执念，转向追求舒适宽松的穿衣风格。当我们终日在被窝里工作，谁还需要看起来时尚有风度？悲秋女孩告诉我们：我们不曾摆脱生活在羽绒服里的舒适。
Angelcore
堕落天使
What it is: Lots of these trends have a creepy side, and this is no exception. More than just cherubim and feathered wings, this look is like David Lynch costume-directing Madonna’s Like a Virgin* video. Lots of menace, silk and white lace.
时尚现象：许多的时尚趋势都有其毛骨悚然的一面，Angelcore也不例外。除了丘比特和羽毛翅膀，它看起来就像大卫·林奇执导的麦当娜的MV Like a Virgin---充满威胁、丝绸和洁白的蕾丝。
What it tells us: This aesthetic could be saying so many things. Are those wearing it hoping to mesmerise everyone with their virtual halo? Could it be a comment on the fall of Victoria’s Secret and their angels? Or simply that behind every angel dressed in lace, there is also a devil (also probably wearing lace).
时尚背后：这种美学向我们传达了许多信号：穿上它的人是否希望用自己的虚拟光环迷倒众生？这也可能是对维秘和维秘天使们的陨落宣告自我立场？或者简单地说，每个穿着蕾丝的天使背后，还有一个可能也穿着蕾丝的恶魔。
Gorpcore
山地时尚
What it is: Cottagecore’s more serious cousin. It is extreme-weather dressing (wellies, utility jacket, rainproof trousers) for, probably, largely indoor living.
时尚现象：它是田园怀旧风的表亲，风格更为正式。这是主要为室内生活设计的极端天气着装（雨靴，多功能夹克，防雨裤）。
What it tells us: During lockdown, government-sanctioned daily walks revealed our musty leather jackets to not really be cut out for one’s morning constitutional.
时尚背后：在疫情封锁期间，政府允许的每日散步政策让我们明白：我们那些发霉的皮夹克并不适合晨跑。
Regencycore
摄政风格
（受摄政时期的富人时尚启发而产生的一种服装风格）
What it is: It may have existed before, but Bridgerton* really put the wheels on this one. There are no tiaras, but plenty of lace corsets, cinched waistcoats and square-collar dresses. Apparently a whole bunch of us want to dress like Jane Austen now.
时尚现象：这种时尚可能在以前就存在过，但《布里奇顿》这部剧大大推动了它的发展。这种风格没有专属的头饰，取而代之的是数之不尽的蕾丝紧身衣、束腰背心和方领连衣裙。显然，如今许多人都想打扮成这种如简·奥斯汀一般的风格。
*Bridgerton：《布里奇顿》，2020年首播的一部电视剧，讲述了摄政时期伦敦的布里奇顿家族的名门韵事。
What it tells us: Historical cosplay fashion is nothing new. Aligning ourselves with a historical era of dressing is a statement about our own values and, in this case, our utter love of historical Shondaland*.
时尚背后：扮演历史人物的时尚并不是什么新鲜事。我们总会把自己与服装所在的历史时代联系在一起，这是我们对自身价值观的一种声明；就这种时尚而言，这也表现了我们对历史悠久的Shondaland制作公司的热爱。
*Shondaland：桑德·莱姆斯（Shonda Rhimes）与贝西·比尔斯（Betsy Beers）共同创立的制作公司。
Warcore
战地风
What it is: The only look on this list where the mood board* features a riot police officer. Black balaclavas, big boots and the unfortunately named “stab vests” together create a purposefully intimidating aesthetic.
时尚现象：本文中只有这种时尚风格集合了防暴警察的素材特色。黑色的巴拉克拉瓦帽、宽大的靴子和拥有“防刺背心”这一不祥命名的衣装，共同营造了一种令人生畏的凌厉之美。
*mood board：是指经由对使用对象与产品认知的色彩，影像，数字资产或其它材料的收集，可以引起某些情绪反应，作为设计方向与形式的参考。
Black balaclavas黑色的巴拉克拉瓦帽
What it tells us: This is a sartorial response to the geopolitical situation: wars, the climate crisis and the rise of the “alt-right”. In other words, scary clothes for a scary time.
时尚背后：对于战争、气候危机和崛起的“另类右翼”等地缘政治形势，人们以这种服装风尚做出了回应。换言之，正是由于身处恐怖的时期，人们才穿这种“恐怖”的服装。
Mermaidcore
美人鱼风
What it is: Singer Halle Bailey (from Chloe x Halle) is starring in a live action remake of The Little Mermaid, but this is not the only reason that the mermaid trend refuses to jump back into the water and, like Darryl Hannah at the end of Splash, swim away. Mermaidcore is one iteration of the style, with a focus on long, aquamarine or bubblepink hair. Accessorise with lots of sea-related jewellery in your piercings (the bigger the better).
时尚现象：音乐组合Chloe x Halle的前成员Halle Bailey将主演真人版的《小美人鱼》，但这并不是美人鱼风持续盛行的唯一理由。像《美人鱼》结尾中的Darryl Hannah一样，现实中的美人鱼风也没有被其他潮流冲散。美人鱼妆发是美人鱼造型的一种延续，主打的是海蓝色或泡泡粉长发。以及在你的耳洞上佩戴许多与海洋有关的首饰(越大越好)。
What it tells us: Like VSCO, Mermania is a reaction to ocean conservation and a kooky way for fans to feel closer to our finned friends. Also, for some, Under the Sea is the earworm that we cannot shake.
时尚背后：和VSCO风一样，《美人鱼》是对海洋保护的响应，也是粉丝们与带鳍的鱼类朋友更亲近的一种另类的方式。此外，对一些人来说，电影《小美人鱼》插曲Under the sea是地位无法撼动的经典歌曲。
Menocore
休闲风
What it is: A pivot to dressing as a 1%-er* and, specifically, as if you are in a Nancy Meyers film*. Lots of loose-fitting white tops, big gold jewellery and trousers so wide that you can fit your body into each leg.
时尚现象：这种时尚的爱好者们把自己打扮成1%的精英族，特别是像南希·迈耶斯的电影里那样。这种时尚主打宽松的白色上衣，硕大的金色首饰和宽大到让你能把身子塞进裤腿里去的裤子。
*1%er：指握有99%财富的1%的精英阶层。
南希·迈耶斯《爱很复杂》剧照
What it tells us: Dressing like the 1% is a classic power move. It also suggests that Annie Hall* is now an influencer.
时尚背后：普通的人们穿得像1%的精英，这是典型的试图炫耀权力的行为。这也表明安妮·霍尔现在是个红人。
*Annie Hall：电影《安妮·霍尔》中的女主角，以打扮休闲随意著称
难点词汇与表达
1）splintering：v.分裂；分离出来 divide into slivers or splinters
例句：Several firms have splintered off from theoriginal company.
2）cheugy：adj.（某人或某事）没有那么酷，有点过时了 no longer regarded as cool or fashionable
例句：She is so cheugy. She participates in TikTok trends when they are already weeks old.
3）aesthetic：n.美学 a philosophical theory as to what is beautiful
例句：These concepts belong to the field of aesthetics.
4）bolthole：n. 庇护所，避难处 a place of escape or refuge
例句：He would spend a few hours with us, then go home to his bolthole and not talk to anyone for 24 hours.
5）bucolic：adj. 乡下的，田园生活的 relating to or typical of rural life
例句：A similar number of Britons live in France, but mainly for a sunny dotage in the bucolic south.
6）soupcon：n.少许 a slight but appreciable addition
例句：Give it a soupcon of garlic.
7）penchant：n.倾向 a strong liking
例句：
Neither the human imitative instinct nor a penchant for fantasy by itself leads to an autonomous theater.
8）mesmerise：v.吸引 attract strongly
例句：They are said to mesmerise their larger victims with a snake-like dance.
9）sanction：n./v.许可 formal and explicit approval
例句：He may now be ready to sanction the use of force.
原文链接：https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/sep/27/from-minimalist-to-menocore-the-21-biggest-style-tribes-of-2021?CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other
编译 | 蒋祖儿 郝喜桓 黄怡涛 谢曈 周奕言
排版 | 蒋祖儿 郝喜桓 黄怡涛
