编者按：维密跌落神坛、日日内衣新品牌引领潮流……过去几年，内衣界到底发生了多大的变化？比起老牌维密，日日内衣新品牌，究竟赢在哪里？千禧一代眼里的“性感”，你又知道多少？快来和小Q一起，了解内衣界黑马的前世今生~
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引入
If you want to understand just how much underwear has changed in the past couple of decades, just look at Serena Rees’s journey. In the 1990s and early 2000s, Rees achieved massive international success with Agent Provocateur, which she launched with her partner Joseph Corré in 1994 and sold for a reported £100m in 2007. Where Agent Provocateur was known for creating vampy luxury lingerie and high-octane glamour for women, Rees’s most recent venture, the underwear-meets-streetwear label Les Girls Les Boys, takes a different tack.
如果你想知道内衣在过去几十年里发生了多大的变革，看看塞丽娜·里斯的经历就知道了。从20世纪90年代到21世纪初，里斯和她的丈夫约瑟夫·科雷凭借他们在1994年创立的品牌“大内密探”，在国际上取得了巨大的成功。2007年，他们以据称1亿英镑的价格出售了该品牌。“大内密探”一向以打造性感热辣的轻奢内衣而著称，而里斯最近创立的新品牌Les Girls Les Boys则将内衣与街头时尚相结合，形成了新的设计风格。
Noticing the struggles and priorities of her kids and their peers, now in their 20s, over the past decade, made her realise that the new generation needed something different from what Agent Provocateur offered. “The 1990s was a different time; back then we wanted to say that it is okay to be sexy and to express your sexuality – but things have moved on,” Rees tells BBC Designed.“If anything, we’ve gone too far the other way, with social media creating these unrealistic body images for young women and men.”
在过去的十年里，里斯察觉到了她的孩子和同样20多岁的孩子们在选择内衣时的纠结和挑选时的优先事项。她意识到，新一代年轻人需要的东西与“大内密探”以往提供的东西不再相同。“90年代和现在是不一样的。那个时候我们想说的是，性感是可以的，表达欲望也是可以的。但现在时代不同了。”里斯在接受BBC设计频道采访时说道，“然而，我们却做得过头了。社交媒体不断塑造那些不切实际的身体形象给年轻人。”
Les Girls Les Boys describes itself as a ‘street-to-bed’ range of underwear for everyone, that can be worn as outerwear by anyone. The aesthetic – cool and casual – offers a more low-key take on sexiness, and Rees says it is designed to cater to a new generation of young people who share everything. “This is about a group of people with a different point of view, a collective of young people, who share their emotions, they share their love, their friendships, girls or boys, or boys or girls, it doesn’t matter,” she says. “There is freer sexuality now, which is wonderful.”
Les Girls Les Boys的品牌定位是“从街头到居家”，即让所有消费者既能将产品作为家居服，也能穿着外出。这种时尚而又随意的美学设计低调地流露出性感。里斯表示，这是为满足新一代年轻人热衷分享的需求而设计的。“这是一群观点各异，喜欢分享情感的年轻人——他们分享爱情，也分享友情。男孩还是女孩在这里并不重要。”里斯说。“他们现在有着更为自由的性意识，这非常好。“
In the post-#metoo era, and thanks to increased visibility and activism from feminist groups and the LGBTQ community, as well as high-profile celebrities, attitudes to how sexuality is viewed and presented has changed, she adds.
#metoo运动后，由于女权主义组织、性少数群体和知名度高的名人们越来越多的发声和行动，人们看待性的态度和表现性的方式都发生了改变，她补充道。
01. 看起来性感，就是一切吗？
Underwear has a knack for reflecting cultural and social changes back at us, says Dr Rebecca Arnold, senior lecturer in the history of dress at the Courtauld Institute of Art. She tells BBC Designed: “I think they both reflect and are part of the construction of body ideals and contemporary notions of gender, morality and sexuality.” Young women rejecting corsets in the interwar period is one such example, she says: “Instead women chose underwear that was soft and flexible – fitting their new, more active lifestyles.”
考陶尔德艺术学院服装史高级讲师丽贝卡·阿诺德博士说，内衣也反映了文化和社会变迁。她告诉BBC设计频道，“我认为，这些变化既反映出时代理想身材建立的过程和当下社会对于性别、道德和性的观念，同时也是这两者的一部分。“战争时期，年轻女性拒绝束腰就是这样一个例子，她说：“为了适应更加忙碌的新生活，比起束腰，那时女性选择了更柔软也更有弹性的内衣。”
One high-profile brand that has misjudged the shift in mood is Victoria’s Secret. The once unstoppable lingerie giant cancelled its famous fashion show last year. Models from the show have since spoken out against the brand; Bella Hadid said she “never felt powerful” as a VS model. And Karlie Kloss said she “didn’t feel it was an image that was truly reflective of who I am and the kind of message I want to send to young women around the world about what it means to be beautiful”.
知名内衣品牌“维多利亚的秘密”就对市场情绪的转变做出了错误的判断。去年，这家一度势不可挡的内衣巨头取消了其最为出名的维密大秀。从那以后，维密模特们开始公开反对该品牌。贝拉·哈迪德说，她给维密作模特时“从未感受到女性力量”。卡莉·克劳斯也说，维密模特的形象不能真正反映出她是谁，也不能向世界各地的年轻女性传递出她想要传递的美丽的含义。
Ed Razek, its former chief marketing officer, told Vogue.com in 2018 that he had no interest in transgender models or including a wider range of sizes and shapes in the TV catwalk show. In February 2020 it was announced that the company is to be sold to a private equity firm following months of store closures and falling sales.
维密前首席营销官艾德·拉扎克在2018年告诉Vogue（美国市场杂志）网站，他对跨性别模特不感兴趣，也不希望多元体型的模特出现在电视走秀上。2020年2月，维密宣布将把公司出售给一家私人股权公司。此前数月，维密不停关闭门店，销售额也不断下滑。
“Over the past few years, social and cultural movements such as body positivity, inclusivity, sustainability and diversity have had a big impact on the lingerie market – and looking sexy is no longer the priority,” says Lyst’s Morgane Le Caer.
“在过去的几年里，宣扬身体自信，倡导包容性、多元化审美的社会文化运动对内衣市场产生了巨大的影响——‘看上去性感’已经不再是主流了。“Lyst（英国时尚电商平台）的莫嘉娜说。
The new lingerie movement is all about body confidence and comfort, she adds. An increasing number of lingerie brands use diverse models of varied body types and un-retouched photography.
她补充说，新的内衣运动都是关于身体自信和内衣舒适度。越来越多的内衣品牌开始使用多元体型的模特和未经修饰的原图。
02. 色号和尺码，都只能一个？
‘Nude’ shades must no longer represent one skin tone and greater emphasis is placed on catering to all body types, agrees Libby Page, fashion market editor at Net-A-Porter. “We have seen a strong growth in brands offering a wider selection of shades and size ranges, to cater to women of all shapes, skin tones and sizes, and celebrate the female body in all its forms,” says Page. Digital native brands have been driving change with a new kind of messaging, and Page says that these brands are “redefining the idea of ‘sexy’ within the lingerie market”.
在Net-A-Porter（英国时尚电商平台）时尚市场编辑莉比·佩奇看来，“裸色”也不再只代表一种肤色，而更强调满足所有肤色的需求。“我们看到越来越多的品牌开始提供更广泛的色号、尺码选择，以满足不同体型和不同肤色的女性的需求，赞美各种形态的女性身体。“佩奇说。本土电商品牌已经在推动改革，传达新的理念。佩奇表示，这些品牌正在内衣市场内‘重新定义性感’。
Rihanna’s underwear brand Savage X Fenty has included plus-size models and an abundance of nude shades since its inception in 2018, allowing the label to gain market share from Victoria’s Secret and other high street brands.
蕾哈娜的内衣品牌Savage X Fenty自2018年成立以来，一直在模特中加入大码模特并提供各种色度的裸色。这一做法使得该品牌抢占了维密和其他高街品牌的市场份额。
In September 2019 Savage X Fenty staged its first live show in New York, streamed on Amazon Prime. Bella and Gigi Hadid may have walked in it, but this was no Victoria’s Secret: it embraced models of all shapes, sizes and ethnicities. “Every woman deserves to feel sexy. We are sexy, we are multi-faceted and I want women to embrace that to the fullest,” says Rihanna in the show introduction.
2019年9月，Savage X Fenty在纽约举办了第一场现场秀，并在亚马逊流媒体上直播。虽然此前走过维密的贝拉和吉吉也是这场秀的模特，但这场秀却不同于维密：它包含了各种体型、尺码和种族的模特。蕾哈娜在大秀开幕时说：“每个女人都应该觉得自己性感。我们既是性感的，也是多面的，我希望女性们都能充分认识到这一点。”
But Arnold suggests that while the rules of underwear have changed, the appetite to alter the appearance of the body has not. “It's interesting how the purpose of underwear can be multiple – even during one period”, she says. “While the trend is towards softer, more comfortable underwear, the rise in shapewear, going to the gym and plastic surgery show that the desire to alter your body – from within or without – persists and will not disappear, just change in relation to contemporary ideals and technology.”
但阿诺德认为，虽然内衣市场的规则已经发生改变，但人们渴望改变身材的想法仍然存在。 “有趣的是，即使在同一时期，人们穿着内衣的意图也是多种多样的。” 她说。“虽然现在的流行趋势是穿更柔软、更舒适的内衣，但塑身衣、健身和整容手术的兴起又表明，人们渴望从内在或外在改变身体的想法依然存在且不会消失，只是根据当代的思想和技术进行了一些改变。”
03. 自信又自在，就是真性感
The real shift in the underwear market is making the wearer looking good in their own eyes, not the eyes of someone else, says Mazie Fisher, who founded the lingerie brand Beija.London with her sister Abbie Miranda. The brand’s aesthetic is pared-back, cool and inclusive. Last year the Beija.London unveiled a campaign featuring 27 women in 27 different sizes, to illustrate just how inclusive lingerie can be.
内衣市场真正的转变是让穿着者在自己眼中好看，而非在别人眼中，内衣品牌Beijia.London的创始人玛姬·费希尔说。她和她的姐姐艾比·米兰达共同创立了这一品牌。该品牌的美学理念是简约、冷静和包容。去年，Beija.London推出了一项活动，邀请了27位不同身材的女性，以展示女性内衣的包容性。
“It was important to us to create a lingerie brand where women feel welcome, celebrated, and can feel excited. Something for them, disregarding the male gaze or what is perceived as typically commercially attractive. We want to contribute in making lingerie a healthy shopping environment for future generations,” explains Fisher.
“我们认为，打造一个使女性感到受欢迎、被赞美，同时产生兴奋感的内衣品牌很重要。我们想要打造专属于她们的内衣——不用迎合男性的目光，也无需顾及产品是否具有典型的商业吸引力。我们希望为后代打造一个健康的内衣购物环境。”费希尔解释道。
“As nearly-nude models sell the product, of course lingerie brands reflect the zeitgeist”, agrees the brand’s co-founder Miranda. “What’s good nowadays is the increasing variety of identities that women can see reflected back to them and the ability to find a lingerie brand that matches their own social attitudes; some women still love a push-up bra, and that is completely acceptable and not to be judged.”
该品牌的联合创始人米兰达对此表示赞同：“鉴于内衣模特近乎全裸地销售产品，你当然可以说内衣品牌反映了时代思潮。如今很好的一点是，女性可以看到自己身上反映出更加多元的身份认同，并且能够找到符合自己社会态度的内衣品牌。例如，一些女性仍然喜欢托举式文胸，这是完全可以接受的，也不需要对此加以评判。”
Sex still sells, but it needs to be presented as something empowering for the wearer, not for the gratification of the gaze, it seems. Or as Serena Rees puts it: “It is about understanding that the only person who can validate you is you, that’s what’s changed; sexiness now is about being confident and comfortable being yourself”.
性感仍然很受欢迎，但它需要为穿着者赋能，而非为迎合旁观者的审视。或者就像瑟琳娜·里斯所说：“关键是要明白，唯一能认可你的人就是你自己，这才是变化所在。性感如今就是自信、自在地做自己。”
原文链接：
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20200428-the-brands-redefining-sexy
编译 | 李旻艺 黄思谊 陆风后 刘宇航 马林 周冰倩
排版 | 李旻艺
指导老师 | 刘佳
