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岩壁上的舞者——在死亡边缘舞蹈

岩壁上的舞者——在死亡边缘舞蹈 QuriositySISU
2019-10-28
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导读:作为世界十大危险运动之一的徒手攀岩,要求攀登者全程仅仅使用双手进行攀登,而接下来小Q要介绍的这位攀登者,他要同时和时间与死神进行赛跑,即在进行徒手攀登的同时追求速度。

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作为世界十大危险运动之一的徒手攀岩,要求攀登者全程仅仅使用双手进行攀登,而接下来小Q要介绍的这位攀登者,他要同时和时间与死神进行赛跑,即在进行徒手攀登的同时追求速度



It's one thing climbing over 1,800 feet up a vertical rock face, it's another thing altogether to do it without the use of safety ropes -- at speed.


爬上超过1800英尺的垂直岩面是一回事,在保持速度的情况下不使用安全绳去做这件事又是另一回事。


In September, Dani Arnold scaled the imposing Cima Grande wall in the Dolomites mountain range, Italy, with nothing but his bare hands and a bag of chalk.

 

今年九月,Dani Arnold仅靠他的双手和一袋粉笔爬上了意大利多洛米蒂山上的Cima Grande岩壁。


He did so in a record breaking time of 46 minutes, 30 seconds, obliterating the previous record by almost 20 minutes.

 

他以46分30秒的成绩打破了之前的纪录,将之前的纪录缩短了近20分钟。


"It's very much a head game. All the skills, like the climbing technique and all the endurance, these are basic for me," the 35-year-old Arnold told CNN Sport, from his home in Switzerland, as he reflected on his love of free soloing (climbing without ropes).

 

“这是一种脑力游戏,所有的技巧,比如攀岩的技巧和耐力,这些对我来说都是很基本的。”35岁的Arnold在瑞士的家中接受CNN体育的采访时展现了他对徒手攀岩的热爱。


"There are so many very strong climbers around but having these normal climbing skills whilst also having a very clear mind and feeling safe without a rope, that's a bit like a joker [card] or a jackpot." 

 

“有很多很强壮的攀岩者,但是拥有这些基本技巧的同时保持非常清晰的头脑且能在没有绳索的情况下依旧能感到安全的人就像抽到王牌或是中头奖的人一样少。”

Dani Arnold set the speed record for climbing the Cima Grande.

Climbing education 

攀登教育

Climbing has always played an important part in Arnold's life. Growing up in the Swiss mountains he would spend his days inadvertently honing his skills because, as he put it, "there was nothing else to do."

 

攀岩在Arnold的生活中一直扮演着重要的角色。他在瑞士的山区长大,每天无意间都锻炼了自己的攀岩技能,用他自己的话说,因为“没有其他事情可做”。


As his skills developed, the challenges intensified as Arnold began to feel increasingly comfortable hanging off the steepest of rock faces, albeit with ropes attached and a support team. 

 

随着他攀岩技巧的提升,挑战也变得越来越大,Arnold开始觉得悬挂在最陡峭的岩壁上越来越舒适,尽管他有绳索系着以及团队的支持。

 

It was not until he completed his first free solo while ice climbing that he realized the intense thrill that comes with the most dangerous of sports.  

 

直到他完成第一次冰上徒手攀岩,他才意识到这项最危险运动的所带来的强烈刺激。

 

Free soloing entered the public's consciousness after American climber Alex Honnold scaled the Californian granite monolith El Capitan without any ropes, an achievement immortalized in a breathtaking BAFTA-winning National Geographic documentary "Free Solo," which won Best Documentary at this year's Oscars.

 

美国攀岩者亚历克斯·霍诺德在没有任何绳索的情况下攀上了加利福尼亚的酋长巨石,自此徒手攀爬进入了公众的认识。这一成就在激动人心的英国电影和电视艺术学院(BAFTA)获奖的美国国家地理纪录片《自由攀爬》里永垂不朽,该纪录片还获得了今年的奥斯卡最佳纪录片奖。

 

"I'm very in the moment," Arnold said, explaining how he manages to stay calm when his life is at risk. 

 

在解释如何在生命处于危险之时仍然保持冷静,Arnold答道“我很专注其中。”

 

"I know what would happen if I make any mistakes but it's not [...] fear or something like that. I'm just very, very concentrated. I know what I do. So it's not comparable with anything." 

 

“我知道如果我出错了会发生什么,但这不是害怕或者是什么的,我只是非常非常地专注。我知道我在做什么,所以没有东西可以和它相提并论。”

 

It's an answer that gives his family and friends little comfort when he sets off on such perilous adventures and Arnold admits that neither his parents or wife enjoy what he does, though they have come to appreciate why he takes such risks.

 

当他出发去进行如此危险的冒险时,这个答案给了他的家人和朋友许些安慰,Arnold承认他的妻子和父母都不喜欢他现在所做的事情,尽管他们开始明白他为什么冒险。

 

"They realized that this is something very important to me," he said. "They see how many times I train for this stuff [...] I don't go if I have a bad feeling or something like that." 

 

“他们意识到这些事对我有多重要,他们看见了我为此训练了多少次,如果我有不好的感觉或者是类似的感觉时我就不会去。”他说道

Arnold has been climbing his entire life, having grown up in the mountains.

Arnold climbed the same route three times with ropes before attempting the free solo.

Record breaker

破纪录者

Climbing at speed while free soloing adds an extra layer of peril that pushes Arnold to his absolute limit. 

 

高速的攀爬为徒手攀岩增加一层额外的难度,也将Arnold推向了他的极限。

 

The natural handgrips and footholds that he uses to pull himself up the rock face are often only a matter of inches but, when you're jumping between them at pace, you lose a certain amount of precision. 

 

他用来爬上岩壁的天然把手和落脚点通常只有几英寸,但当你以一定的速度在它们之间跳跃时,你会失去一定的精确度。

 

 

"[There is] a big balance between being fast and being safe. That's quite a small line, I would say," he added.

 

“在速度与安全之间有一个平衡,我觉得很难去保持这个平衡。”他补充道。

 

According to the 35-year-old climber, minimizing risk is all about preparation.

 

根据这位35岁的攀岩者,他的所有准备都是关于最小化风险。

 

Before setting off on the Cima Grande, Arnold climbed the exact same route (the 1,800 feet Comici-Dimai route) three times and felt mentally prepared for the challenge ahead. 

 

在出发Cima Grande之前,阿诺德沿着同一条路线(1800英尺长的Comici - Dimai路线)爬了三次,并为即将到来的挑战做好了心理准备。

 

 

However, his record breaking attempt was the first time he climbed the route without safety ropes.

 

然而,他打破记录的尝试是他第一次无绳索攀岩的地方。

 

"I spend 200 days per year somewhere in the mountains, of course not always without ropes, but every day is a bit of preparation and training."

 

“我每年有200天是在山里度过的,当然不是没有绳索的时候,但是每天都是一些准备和训练。”


Sprint finish

冲刺终点

Despite all the preparation, climbing can always throw up the unexpected. 

 

尽管有万全的准备,攀岩总是会有意料之外的事。

 

During his ascent, at around 650 feet in the air, Arnold encountered a team of British climbers who were attempting the same route he was -- but with the aid of ropes. 

 

在他的攀登过程中,在大约650英尺的高空,Arnold遇到了一群英国登山者,他们正在尝试与他相同的路线——但是是借助了绳索。

 

 

Fortunately, the three men did their best to let him through on the perilous ledges and Arnold took pictures with them once they eventually caught up with him at the top. 

 

幸运的是,这三个人尽了最大的努力让他通过了危险的岩架,当他们最终到达山顶时,Arnold还和他们拍了照。

 

Once at the summit, Arnold said the emotion was "indescribable" but later reflected that the overriding feeling was one of exhaustion. 

 

有一次在山顶上,Arnold说这种感觉是“无法描述的”,但随后感觉到的是压倒一切的疲惫

 

The final 10 minutes of the challenge were on flatter terrain which meant he was able to sprint to the finish line, pushing the climber to his physical limits. 

 

挑战的最后十分钟是在平坦的地形上,这意味着他能够冲刺到终点,将攀岩者的身体推向极限。

 

"It's just endurance and I'm not so good in endurance so when I reached the top I was super exhausted," he said.

 

“这仅仅是耐力的问题,而且我耐力没那么好,所以当我到达山顶的时候我可以说是筋疲力尽了。”他说道。

 

"I was just happy to stop and that the Cima Grande was not higher." 

 

“我很高兴能爬完,幸亏Cima Grande就这么高。”


Climber Dani Arnold holds the speed record for summiting four of Europe's six major north face mountains.

What next? 

将来会怎样?

Just weeks before going up Cima Grande at speed, the climbing fanatic had just finished a seven week adventure in Pakistan where he climbed Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain at over 26,000 feet.

 

就在高速攀登Cima Grande的前几周,这位攀登狂热者就刚刚在他攀上了世界第十二高峰即海拔26000多英尺的布罗德峰。

 

"I am a bit tired, not physically, but I feel my head is a bit like 'I need a bit of rest,'" he said, before revealing he would certainly be taking on a new challenge in the future, possibly ice climbing in Scotland. 

 

“我有点累,但不是身体上的,我感觉我的脑袋需要休息一会。”他说道,他透露他在将来肯定会接受一个新的挑战,很可能是在苏格兰的冰攀。

 

However, despite holding speed records for four of Europe's six major north faces, he has no desire to complete the set.

 

然而,尽管手握欧洲6座主要山脉其中4座山脉的速攀纪录,但他并不打算继续下去。

 

One of the remaining climbs,  in Switzerland, is simply too dangerous for Arnold to try again having seen his previous record beaten by six minutes. 

 

剩下的攀登中有一次是在瑞士,对于Arnold来说太危险了,因为他已经看到自己之前的记录被以六分钟的优势打破了,所以他不敢再次尝试。

 

"Climbing is so, so cool and there are so many mountains around and just to focus on the Eiger north face, I'm not so interested in that," Arnold admitted.

Arnold承认:“攀岩是非常酷的一件事,有那么多的山峰,我对仅仅将注意力集中于艾格峰北面没有兴趣。”

 

  

 

"It's super dangerous if you feel pressure [...] I don't want to do that again."

 

“如果你感觉到有压力的话是非常危险的,我再也不想这样做了。”

原文及图片来源:https://edition.cnn.com/2019/10/09/sport/dani-arnold-free-solo-cima-grande-spt-intl/index.html


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