男妆热潮能否打破性别认知的镣铐？- 大数跨境

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男妆热潮能否打破性别认知的镣铐？

QuriositySISU

2020-04-27

导读：都2020年了，你还觉得化妆是女性专属吗？

编者按：如今，男星们在镜头前的妆容愈发大胆，更多的彩妆品牌推出男性系列产品，美妆界也出现了男性博主，化妆不再是女性的专属词。欢呼与质疑并存，这场男性美妆浪潮正重新定义着人们对男性形象的认知。

In this year’s Golden Globe Awards, actor Ansel Elgort hit the red carpet in a beauty look that stole the show, his eyes accentuated with a tasteful dusting of silver glitter. The look had the Internet buzzing, but the shock factor may be on its way out. Male stars are increasingly embracing makeup, nail art, and more on the step and repeat—and with awards season officially kicked off, it’s a movement that’s only bound to continue.

在今年的金球奖颁奖典礼上，演员安塞尔·埃尔格特亮相红毯，惊艳全场。在银色珠光眼影的映衬下，他的双眼显得炯炯有神。这个妆容在网上引起了热议，但人们似乎不再对类似的事情感到震惊。如今，越来越多的男明星加入到化妆、美甲的行列，而随着颁奖季正式拉开帷幕，这一潮流注定会持续下去。

Ansel Elgort（图源：GQ-Magazine）

Men are no strangers to make-up. Alexander the Great was a fan, while the Picts daubed their faces in blue woad. Wigs and beauty spots were popular in the court of Louis XIII – and let’s not forget the dandies. But somewhere in the 1800s, someone decided that real men don’t wear make-up and, after that, when they did, it was in a spirit of transgression. Bowie, Prince and Johnny Depp weren’t (just) trying to make themselves look good, they were challenging everything we knew about gender, sex and society.

化妆对男人来说并不陌生。比如亚历山大大帝就是一个美妆爱好者，铁器时代的皮克特人也会在脸上涂抹靛蓝颜料。路易十三时期，假发和美人痣风靡宫廷，后来更是涌现了很多爱好打扮的绅士。但到了19世纪，一些人开始觉得，真正的男人不需要化妆。此后，化妆便成了反叛精神的表现。如今的大卫·鲍伊、Prince和约翰尼·德普之所以化妆，并不只是想让自己看起来更好看，他们更是在挑战人们对于生理性别、文化性别和社会的一切认知。

【Picts】皮克特人，即拉丁语中的“涂色人”，他们作战时会将全身涂成灰蓝色。

【Bowie】David Bowie（1947年1月8日-2016年1月10日），英国摇滚歌手、演员，其经典闪电妆常被模仿。

【Prince】Prince Rogers Nelson（1958年6月7日—2016年4月21日），美国流行歌手、演员。

大卫·鲍威的闪电妆（图源：Glamour.com）

普林斯（图源：INSTYLE）

But, off the back of the Golden Globe Awards, is men’s make-up about to go mainstream? Factor in men’s cosmetic line launches by Chanel and Tom Ford, and male make-up artists Manny Gutierrez and James Charles fronting campaigns for US mega brands Maybelline and Covergirl respectively – and you have all the beginnings of a movement. Plus Gutierrez and Charles are part of a powerful influencer group of men in make-up, including Jeffree Star and others.

不过，回到金球奖颁奖典礼来看，男性美妆是否将会成为主流？事实上，香奈儿和汤姆•福特都已推出男士系列彩妆，男性美妆博主曼尼·古铁雷斯和詹姆斯·查尔斯分别为美国超级品牌美宝莲和封面女郎代言——这都是这场潮流的开端。此外，古铁雷斯和查尔斯，与杰弗里·斯塔等人一样，都是男性美妆博主这一群体中具有影响力的成员。

曼尼·古铁雷斯代言美宝莲（图源：ADWEEK）

詹姆斯·查尔斯代言封面女郎（图源：ALLURE）

网红美妆博主Jeffree Star （图源网络）

男性美妆仍任重而道远

In January 2019, when Charles visited Birmingham in the UK to launch a palette with Morphe, traffic literally stopped. Look beyond the screaming, however, and the status quo has hardly shifted. BOY de Chanel (tagline 'Be Only You') is a streamlined collection of only three products – foundation, eyebrow pencil and lip balm – in matte-black packaging that hardly challenges conventional notions of masculinity. And the boys in make-up? They’re mostly beautiful, gay, prone to hyperbole – and up to 80% of their million-strong fanbase appear to be young girls.

2019年1月，查尔斯与美妆品牌Morphe推出了一款眼影盘，当他出现在英国伯明翰市首发这一产品时，门店被消费者挤得水泄不通。然而，在这股热潮之外，男性美妆的困境几乎没有改变。例如，香奈儿的男性彩妆线BOY de Chanel虽然标榜着“做你自己”的口号，却被简化到只剩三个基本产品：粉底、眉笔、唇膏，而且它们的哑光黑色包装也几乎没有挑战传统意义上的男子气概。而那些化妆的男性呢？他们大多以美丽、同性恋、夸张的面貌出现，且他们的百万粉丝中有80%都是年轻女孩。

查尔斯正在介绍他与Morphe合作的眼影盘（图源：YouTube）

In the same month, David Beckham appears on the cover of style magazine LOVE 20.5, in Dior, styled by Kim Jones, green roses and bird tattoos spiralling up his neck. “With the lighting and the pose, David reminded me of David Sylvian from [1970s and ‘80s band] Japan,” says make-up artist Miranda Joyce, who worked on the shoot. “It seemed right to add eye make-up. I knew David could make it work, even though it wasn’t something he’d done before.” It’s a great portrait – and yet what really got people talking was that eyeshadow.

同月，大卫·贝克汉姆登上了时尚杂志《LOVE》的20.5号刊的封面。他身穿由金·琼斯设计的迪奥男装，脖子上纹着几圈绿色玫瑰和鸟的图案。负责拍摄活动的化妆师米兰达·乔伊斯说：“大卫的造型，加上灯光，让我想起了上世纪七八十年代Japan乐队的主唱大卫·西尔维安。这次加上眼妆是个明智的决定，虽然这是一次新的尝试，但我知道他肯定能驾驭它。”这是一张很棒的封面照片，但真正引起人们讨论的还是他的眼影。

【Kim Jones】迪奥男装艺术总监

左图：大卫·贝克汉姆的杂志封面（图源：Lovemagazine）

右图：大卫·西尔维安（图源：维基百科）

Why are men still so resistant to ideas of facial decoration? “Well, they’re told to be,” says Glen Jankowski, lecturer in the School of Social Sciences at Leeds Beckett University. “Despite claims of increasing metrosexuality, gender norms for men are still strong. Analyses of toys marketed to boys, for example, show that the messages are still to be strong, brave and uninvested in your appearance. For girls, beauty is key.” Understanding the divide came as a shock to the transgender make-up artist Joseph Harwood.

为什么男性还是那么抗拒面部美妆呢？利兹贝克特大学社科院讲师格伦·扬科夫斯基说：“那是因为他们被灌输了这样的思想。尽管都市美男的形象与日俱增，对男性的刻板印象仍然很深。比如，分析为男孩子开发的玩具，其中传达的信息依然是做一个身强力壮、勇敢而不修边幅的人。而对于女孩来说，美貌则至关重要。”对于跨性别化妆师约瑟夫·哈伍德来说，这样的性别鸿沟让他很震惊。

“I was the tiny kid with glittery gel pens,” he remembers. “I didn't appreciate how powerful conditioning could be until the people who mistook me for female told me what was wrong with my skin. It became evident that the boys and girls had different expectations – and I didn't fit with either. Men are often praised for flaws; a broken nose is rugged, chapped skin is war-torn [but] there’s a full-blown campaign from the start of a girl’s life that involves images on magazines that are overly retouched.”

他回忆说：“我小时候是那种用闪光圆珠笔的孩子。开始人们误认为我是女孩，并指出我样子的不对劲之处。在这之前，我并没有意识到刻板印象的力量有多么大。很明显，社会对男孩和女孩的期望是不同的——然而我哪一种都不符合。男性通常会因他们外貌的瑕疵而被赞美：断鼻梁象征粗犷之美，龟裂的皮肤象征饱经沙场。但从一个女孩出生开始，她就被卷入了一场以过度修饰为美的战争，正如那些杂志的封面图。

男性美妆产业正在指数式增长

The male-grooming business, valued at $57.7billion (£44.6billion) in 2017, is growing exponentially. According to Research and Markets, the market is set to reach a quite staggering $78.6billion (£60.6billion) by 2023. And we’re not just talking Nivea; we’re talking moisturising foundation and bronzers, concealers and brow definers – proper cosmetics.

2017年男性美妆行业估价约为577亿美元（446亿英镑，约4000亿人民币），如今它正以指数爆炸式增长。研究与市场公司的调查估计，2023年其市场价值将高达786亿美元（606亿英镑，约5558亿人民币）。这并不只是类似妮维雅的护肤产品，而是真正的化妆品：保湿粉底液、修容、遮瑕和眉笔。

Alex Dalley isn’t surprised. He set up men’s make-up range MMUK in 2012, after an adolescence plagued by acne – until his mum put some foundation on him. “At the beginning, we had eight or nine products and the bravest things we had were a clear brow gel and a concealer stick. But, over the years, customers starting asking for foundations and bronzers.” Today, the brand has about 60 products and is stocked on Asos. “It’s a completely different landscape,” affirms Dalley.

亚里克斯·达雷对此并不感到惊讶。他青春期时脸上爆痘，母亲不得已为他涂上粉底液来遮盖痘痘。2012年，他打造了男士美妆MMUK系列。达雷说：“刚开始时，我们有八九款产品，其中最大胆的就是透明眉胶和遮瑕棒。但最近几年，客户对粉底液和修容的需求逐渐增加。”如今，此品牌旗下已经有60多种产品并且入驻Asos网站。“如今的市场环境已经和往日大不相同了。”

ASOS是一个创立于2000年的全球性的时尚服饰及美妆产品线上零售商。（图为ASOS官网封面）

Do men really want to get stuck into colour and shine anyway? As most women will testify, the daily routine of ‘putting on your face’ can be double-edged. On one hand, you have the confidence of presenting your best, unblemished self to the world; on the other, you know it’s not the full picture. In a recent article in the Independent, feminist activist Julie Bindel pointed out that “15% of heterosexual women polled about their so-called beauty regimes disclosed that they apply make-up before their partner wakes up.” What a chore.

男性真的想使用五颜六色闪闪发亮的美妆产品吗？很多女性都会承认，日常的化妆过程有两面性。一方面，化妆可以让人自信地向世界展示自己没有瑕疵的最佳面貌，但另一方面，你自己又很清楚这不是你的全貌。在独立报的一篇文章中，女权主义活动家朱莉·宾德尔表示：“调查显示，有15%的异性恋女性投票表示她们会在伴侣睡醒之前化好妆。”多么麻烦啊！

贝克汉姆式解放

Women in the UK also spend an average of 474 days applying make-up, during which time they slather up to 200 synthetic chemicals onto their faces and fork out an average of £9,525 over a lifetime keeping up with trends. “Make-up for a lot of women has become a necessity, something they don’t feel confident without,” admits Miranda Joyce. “I really wish make up could be seen as a more liberating, playful, expressive device. If the perspective shifted, maybe men would feel more inclined to experiment.”

在英国女性的一生中，化妆时间加起来平均达到474天。在此期间，她们会往脸上涂抹200多种化学合成品，并且会花费9525英镑（人民币约81620元）来紧跟化妆潮流。米兰达·乔伊斯承认说：“化妆品俨然已经成为很多女性的必需品，因为素颜会让她们不自信。我真的很希望化妆可以被看做是一种自由、有趣、可以表达情感的方式。如果人们对化妆的固有观念改变了，也许男性就更愿意去尝试化妆了。”

Because, it could be argued that the more lines are blurred between the sexes, the better life will be for everyone. “Masculinity is still such a fragile concept; the fact that Beckham wearing eyeliner is headline news shows how little things have changed,” says LGBT activist Jeffrey Ingold, “Suicide rates among young men are alarmingly high and part of the [reason for that] is the culture of toxic masculinity that restricts what’s acceptable for men to do. Not feeling you can be yourself is incredibly damaging to a person’s mental well-being.”

因为，性别之间的界限越模糊，人们的生活就会越美好。LGBT活动家杰弗里·英戈尔德说：“男子气概仍然是一个脆弱的概念，贝克汉姆画眼线就登上头版新闻表明了人们的观念依旧没有改变。年轻男性的自杀率飙升不止，原因之一就是男子气概观念的荼毒约束了男性的自由行为。束缚天性、无法做真实的自己，这会严重损害人的心理健康。

Seeing more men experiment with appearance using make-up would be a sign we’re expanding the idea of "what it means to be a man,” says Ingold. Joyce agrees: “While gender fluidity is in the spotlight, we’re still a patriarchal society. Beckham in make-up communicates a certain liberation from the norm; he’s a sportsman and a businessman and a style leader and, on the cover, I think he personifies modern masculinity, confident to step out of his comfort zone and experiment.”

英戈尔德说，越来越多的男性开始尝试化妆，这可能显示我们正在扩大“什么是男性”这一定义的范围。乔伊斯也赞同道：“虽然当下性别的流动性备受瞩目，但我们仍然处在一个父系社会中。贝克汉姆通过化妆传达了一种挣脱传统束缚的思想。他是既是运动员，又是商人，还是时尚领袖。我认为，在《LOVE》杂志的封面照片上，他代表了现代意义上的男性气质，即勇敢地迈出舒适区并且勇于尝试。”

【Gender fluidity】根据性别流动理论，在多元性别理论的框架下，每个人的性别认同、性取向还有性别表达都是一个范围，而不是一个点。人们的心理性别并不是”非男即女“，而是具有流动性。