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为什么奶奶的被子成了时尚界的新宠儿 ?

为什么奶奶的被子成了时尚界的新宠儿 ? QuriositySISU
2022-05-26
2
导读:当他们缝被子时,缝合的是破碎的美国梦还是已逝的慢生活?

在2021 Met Gala上,说唱明星A$AP Rocky在红毯上和他的时尚偶像Rihanna同框了,在他们的合照中,这位说唱歌手以他自己的时尚宣言——一件宽大 、多色的被子——抢占了风头。这件作品的原型是是在加利福尼亚旧货店发现的一条毯子,后来一位网友认证了这是她曾祖母亲手缝制的,用的是绗缝技术(一种将外层布料和内层棉芯固定的手工缝纫技术)。


A$AP Rocky 和 Rihanna 将于 2021 年 9 月 13 日在纽约市参加 2021 Met Gala。

 

它出现在时尚界最盛大的夜晚只是该工艺现代复兴的最新例证,不少奢侈品牌最近在尝试将绗缝细节融入其系列,逐渐将这种技术从传家宝转变为奢侈品。

Quilting for generations  

几代人的绗缝








Quilting has deep roots in America, with Fons describing it as a "democratic art" practiced by people of all financial, racial and religious backgrounds throughout the country's history.

绗缝在美国有着悠久的历史,Quiltfolk 杂志(为喜欢绗缝技术的人而打造的杂志)前主编 Mary Fons将其描述为美国历史上所有经济、种族和宗教背景的人们都在实践的“民主艺术”。


Civil rights leader even referred to the craft in a famous speech at the 1984 Democratic National Convention -- a metaphor he revisited in his famed 1988 "patchwork quilt" address -- describing America as a quilt of "many patches, many pieces, many colors, many sizes, all woven and held together by a common thread."

民权领袖Rev. Jesse Jackson甚至在 1984 年民主党全国代表大会上的一次著名演讲中提到了这种工艺。他将美国描述为“许多补丁,许多碎片,许多颜色,许多尺寸,都由一根共同的线编织和固定在一起。”在 1988 年著名的“拼布被子”演讲中他再次使用了这个比喻。


Fons said the continued love of quilting is "material evidence" of American values, adding: "Our country doesn't always exhibit these values, but quilts are still seen as icons of maybe what we hope to be."

Fons认为对绗缝不灭的热爱是美国价值观的“实体化”,并补充说:“我们的国家并不总是表现出这些价值观,但绗缝仍然被视为我们希望成为的象征。”


艺术家Michael C. Thorpe在两幅以篮球为主题的绗缝作品前摆姿势。


Rather than looking to historical styles, artists like Thorpe are incorporating other aspects of design in their quilted works. Thorpe, who recently collaborated with Nike on quilts inspired by the NBA's past and future, brings Black history, his own biracial experiences and childhood dreams to life through textile portraits. But despite his contemporary approach, people at the artist's recent Miami exhibition still brought up their own grandmothers when looking at his work, he said. "Quilting makes people feel," he added. "It's like this knee-jerk reaction of familial (ties). I think that's what people are reaching for."

像Thorpe这样的现代艺术家则没有关注历史风格,而是在他们的绗缝作品中融入了其他设计理念。索普最近与耐克的合作中,从NBA 的过去和未来中获取设计灵感 ,通过纺织品肖像将黑人历史、他自己的混血儿经历和童年梦想编织在一起。但他说,尽管他采用现代化的设计理念,人们在看到他的作品时仍然会想起自己的祖母。“绗缝会带给人一种直观感受,使人们自然而然想起自己的家庭,”他补充说。“我认为这就是人们所追求的。”

Connecting the piece  

连接碎片




Norma Kamali 于 2021 年 10 月 13 日出席在纽约市举行的活动。她最近的系列以数字化拼凑而成。


Ironically, in reshaping fashion with antique quilts American designers may also be endangering the craft, said Fons. "We are in huge danger of losing great tracts of American history, particularly the history of women and marginalized communities, since these are the people who have made the most quilts over our nation's history," she explained.

Fons 说,讽刺的是,在用古老的绗缝技术重塑时尚的过程中,美国设计师也可能危及这项工艺。她解释说:“我们面临着遗忘历史的危险,尤其是女性和边缘化社群的历史。因为这些人是美国历史上做被子最多的人。”


Quilting's revival may, she added, reflect a desire for "authenticity" amid the rapid digitization and mass production of fast fashion. Garfinkel meanwhile pointed to "the sense of community and preservation associated with quilting, especially in contrast to the accelerated speed of contemporary life, the anonymity of industrial production and the ephemerality of digital culture."

她补充道,如今人们身处于快时尚的快速数字化和大规模生产浪潮中,绗缝的复兴可能反映了人们对“真实性”的渴望。服装展策展人Garfinkel同时指出“与绗缝相关的社群意识和保护意识,与当代生活的加速性、工业生产的匿名性和数字文化的短暂性形成鲜明对比。”


A new generation 

新一代

Fons 仍然担任 Quiltfolk 的编辑顾问,她说该杂志目前的读者平均年龄在“50 岁左右”,但她看到年轻一代对该杂志的兴趣正在不断上升。


2021 年 9 月 9 日,模特吉吉·哈迪德 (Gigi Hadid) 在纽约市布莱恩特公园 (Bryant Park) 参加 Moschino 的 2022 春夏时装秀。该品牌在其新系列中包括带有绗缝细节的外观。


Fons said there was an "element of fetishism" to America's love of quilting. "At its heart, the yearning for handmade things, artisanship, and 'slow' processes makes sense. Modern life moves really fast and can be kind of scary.

冯斯说,美国人对绗缝的热爱带有“拜物教的成分”。“从本质上讲,对手工制品、手工艺和‘缓慢’流程的渴望是有迹可循的。现代生活的高速发展为其带来了恐惧感。


"For a lot of people, a quilt is an icon of 'simpler times’, even though it's kind of a false equivalency."

“对很多人来说,绗缝是是一种‘简单时代’的象征,尽管这种说法并不那么贴切。”



Words:

Biracial  adj. 二种人种的((尤指黑、白人种的)

Her outsider status as a biracial American made things even more difficult.

作为一个混血美国人,她的局外人身份让事情变得更加困难。


Ephemerality  n. 朝生暮死,无常的事物,短命

However, its negative effect on China's early movies was also noticeable, which led to its ephemerality.

但神怪片对早期中国电影所起的负面作用也是显而易见的,这决定了它只能昙花一现。


Fetishism  n. 拜物主义,物神崇拜,盲目崇拜;恋物癖

However, fetishism of art is mistaken, too. 

然而,对艺术的盲目崇拜也是错误的。


原文链接:

https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/quilt-trend-luxury-fashion-art/index.html


编译丨黄培莹 王雅菁

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