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时尚?我受够了!

时尚?我受够了! QuriositySISU
2022-04-20
2
导读:我们再也不需要为时尚而忍受身体的不适。


编者按


随着疫情常态化的发展,越来越多人即将结束居家办公,我们需要接受这样一个事实:运动裤的时代可能即将终结。

然而,我们真的想放弃我们在这个严峻时期找到的自由和舒适吗?事实证明,两年的时间足以让我们中的许多人相信我们再也不需要为时尚而忍受身体的不适。

本文共1818字  阅读需约6分钟



 — VOL.1 —


疫情期间,休闲时尚成了人们的新选择

“I love that loungewear has become a prevailing new category,” said Barbara Lippert, 65, a writer. “During the worst part of the pandemic even jeans seemed like an overreach, requiring that complex button and zipper action. And cardigans were too much work.”

“我喜欢家居服已经成为一种流行的新品类,”65岁的作家芭芭拉·利珀特(Barbara Lippert)说道。“在大流行病最严重的时期,即使是牛仔裤似乎也有些过头了,因为需要处理复杂的纽扣和拉链。开襟羊毛衫穿起来太麻烦了。”


Jody Sperling, 51, a dancer and choreographer, favors shoes that permit movement, pointing out that with her go-to style of clogs, “you can go outrageous with color, and they’re still comfort shoes.”

51岁的乔迪·斯珀林(Jody Sperling)是一名舞者和编舞,她喜欢方便运动的鞋子。她指出自己喜欢的木屐风格,是“你可以在颜色上大做文章,但仍然舒适的鞋子。”


“No more heels,” echoed Angela Cason, 61, a digital agency owner who has also succumbed to the charms of shearling.

“别再穿高跟鞋了,”61 岁的安吉拉·卡森 (Angela Cason) 附和道,她是一位同样沉迷于羊毛皮魅力的数字机构所有者。


High-end designers have been conceding this point for a while now.

高端设计师已经承认这一点已有一段时间了。


— VOL.2 —


休闲时尚的流行

Looks inspired by loungewear offer the additional advantage of pared-down choice. Even at its most upscale, relaxed fashion tends toward solid colors (no patterns to mix or match), easier sizing, fabrics that work well together and far fewer “levels” to fuss with (casual, professional and dressy all sort of meld together). In other words, relaxed fashion offers low-stress “uniform” dressing for women.

以休闲装为灵感的造型提供了简约选择的额外优势。即使是最高档的,轻时尚也倾向于纯色(没有混合或匹配的图案),更容易上浆,面料可以很好地融合,而且要过分讲究的“层次”少得多(休闲、专业和考究都融合在一起)。换句话说,休闲时尚为女性提供了低压力的“统一”着装。



There’s an undeniable appeal to a civilian uniform, a way to cut back on the myriad decisions imposed by our wardrobes (sexy or serious; skirt, dress, or pants; tight or loose). Men avail themselves of uniforms whenever they choose a suit for work, a tux for evening or slacks and a polo shirt on weekends.For more than a century, women’s fashion has cycled through various attempts at uniforms — from the Rational Dress Society of late-19th-century London (which decried whalebone corsets and promoted the voluminous cycling trousers known as “bloomers”) through Coco Chanel’s swingy separates, the unisex jeans and T-shirts of the 1960s, to the power suits of the 1980s, which offered armor to women newly entering the corporate battlefield.

平民制服具有不可否认的吸引力,这是一种削减我们的衣柜强加给我们无数决定的方法(性感或严肃;裙子、连衣裙或裤子;紧身或宽松)。男性在工作时选择西装,在晚上选择晚礼服,在周末选择休闲裤和马球衫,都是穿了制服。一个多世纪以来,女性的时尚在对制服的各种尝试中循环往复——从19世纪末伦敦的理性服饰协会(它谴责鲸骨紧身胸衣并推广被称为“灯笼裤”的宽松骑行裤),从可可-香奈儿的飘逸单品、60年代的中性牛仔裤和T恤到80年代的权力套装,它为刚进入企业战场的女性提供了盔甲。



At its heart, relaxed fashion is democratic, accommodating changes of mind, body and culture. It can be gender-neutral or nonbinary; and it’s body inclusive, flattering diverse shapes, weights and sizes. It’s also potentially a way to do more with less. Many women mentioned relying on the same limited number of items kept in steady rotation. 

从本质上讲,它可以是性别中立的,也可以是非二元的;它对身体是包容的,对不同的形状、体重和体型都是宽容的。它也有可能是一种事半功倍的方式。许多女性提到,她们依赖同样数量有限的物品来保持稳定的造型转换。


— VOL.3 —


休闲时尚的出现是个偶然吗?

Finally, while this trend clearly skyrocketed during the pandemic, it didn’t emerge ex nihilo.  a fashion stylist, noted in an email that she “adopted a long time ago the sportswear/ streetwear/ oversize/ minimalist/ comfortable and practical fashion that seems to be the new norm.” Ms. de Lassus suggested that relaxed fashion finds its roots in prepandemic times, as a response to “the excesses of many high-end designers” and recalled seeing the earliest glimmers of it back in 2008, when Phoebe Philo arrived at Céline “with her minimalist, oversize designs and her glorification of sneakers.”

最后,虽然这种趋势在大流行期间明显飙升,但它并不是凭空出现的。一位时尚造型师,在一封电子邮件中指出,她“很久以前就采用了似乎成为新规范的运动装/街头装/oversize/极简主义/舒适实用的时尚。”德·拉苏女士表示,休闲时尚的根源在于疫情前的时期,作为对“许多高端设计师的过度行为”的回应,并回忆起 2008 年 菲比·菲洛与她一起来到 Céline 时看到了最早的曙光极简主义、超大号设计和她对运动鞋的赞美。”



It’s hard to say how long we’ll stay nestled in our cocoons. Fashion is cyclical. But relaxed fashion was a long time in coming and responds deeply to both the current political moment and some of our innermost desires — for comfort, space and freedom from pain. As a result, I suspect this cycle will be with us for a long time, for women of many ages.

很难说我们会在茧房里呆多久。时尚是周期性的。但休闲时尚由来已久,它对当前的政治时刻和我们内心的一些渴望——舒适、空间和免于痛苦的自由——做出了深刻的回应。因此,我怀疑这个周期会伴随我们很长时间,对于各个年龄段的女性来说。


Ms. Sperling said that her 10-year-old daughter, Evie, recently announced: “I will never suffer pain for beauty.” 

斯珀林女士说,她 10 岁的女儿伊薇最近宣布:“我永远不会为了美丽而承受痛苦。” 

重点词汇

overreach: to fail by trying to achieve more than is possible 贪功致败;不自量力

例句:In making these promises, the company had clearly overreached itself. 这家公司作出这些承诺,显然是不自量力。


myriad( literary ) an extremely large number of sth 无数;大量

例句:Designs are available in a myriad of colours. 各种色彩的款式应有尽有。他拥抱着她,她则依偎在他的怀里


nestle: to sit or lie down in a warm or soft place 依偎;舒适地坐(或卧)

例句:He hugged her and she nestled against his chest.


原文链接:

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/04/12/style/relaxed-fashion-clothing.html?action=click&algo=bandit-all-surfaces-variants-time-cutoff-30_filter_new_arm_10_1&alpha=0.05&block=trending_recirc&fellback=false&imp_id=566103299&impression_id=98e574f2-bb13-11ec-8e91-a5c3a8594c89&index=9&pgtype=Article&pool=pool%2F91fcf81c-4fb0-49ff-bd57-a24647c85ea1®ion=footer&req_id=199734914&surface=eos-most-popular-story&variant=0_bandit-time-cutoff-30


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