黑唇膏究竟有什么样的历史？

    The first recorded reference to black lipstick comes from Egypt, at around 4000 BC. Egyptian women in this period aren't afraid of color or beauty: They wear green eyeshadow, blue-black lipstick, red rouge, henna on their feet, and accent their breasts and nipples in blue and gold. They even had their own makeup kits--lipstick was painted on with a wet stick of wood and archeologists have found wooden boxes used to store makeup pigments. Men painted their lips, too. And appearance was a top piority not only for the living but the dead: Women were regularly buried with two pots of rouge in their tombs.

       第一个关于黑色口红的记载来自约公元前4000年的埃及。这一时期的埃及女性不怕颜色和美貌:她们会涂绿色的眼影、蓝黑色的口红、红色的胭脂、脚上涂上指甲花，并用蓝色和金色来突出乳房和乳头。她们甚至有自己的化妆包——口红是用一根湿木棍涂上的，考古学家还发现了用来储存化妆颜料的木箱。男人们也涂口红。外表不仅对活着的人来说是最重要的，对死去的人来说也是最重要的:女人经常带两罐胭脂为自己陪葬。

    If you can't live forever, your work (and beauty) still might be able to. The sparkle of Hollywood in the 1920s saw black lipstick, too, though more for reasons logistical rather than symbolic. This is the era of Mae Murray, Clara Bow, and Max Factor: old-school film sirens and the makeup artist that helped make them stars. In this context, black lipstick came about as a way to fix a problem with movie lighting. At this time, makeup was primarily heavy greasepaint and was typically used in theater productions, and Factor, a Polish Jew who immigrated to the United States in 1904, came up with a more blendable version in primary colors, calling it "flexible greasepaint."

       你自己不能长生不老，但你的作品(和美)也许可以。20世纪20年代，黑色口红也在好莱坞熠熠发光，不过更多的是出于后勤方面的考虑，而非象征意义。这是梅默里（Mae Murray）, 克拉拉•鲍（Clara Bow）和蜜丝佛陀（Max Factor）的时代:老派的电影美人和帮助他们成为明星的化妆师。在这种情况下，黑色唇膏是用来解决电影照明问题的。当时，化妆品主要是浓稠的油彩，通常用于戏剧作品中。1904年移民美国的波兰犹太人Factor想出了一种更可混合的原色版本，称其为“柔性油彩”。

       With it, he redrew contours and lines onto the face for contrast on film, which, being only black and white, required a different process from the theater's brash, colorful facepaint. The color he used for redrawing "bright" red lips on film? Black. All these film heroines were painted up like living grayscale. It was around this time, specifically because of Factor's involvement in celebrity and Hollywood, that the beauty industry in America blossomed. With black lipstick a fundamental force in his arsenal, Factor invented the term "makeup."

       有了“柔性油彩”，他在脸上重新画了轮廓和线条，以便在胶片上与之形成对比。胶片只有黑白两色，需要和剧院里艳丽多彩的面部彩绘不同。他在胶片上重画“鲜红”嘴唇时所用的是什么颜色?黑色的。所有这些电影女主角都被描绘成活生生的灰色。正是在这个时候，特别是由于Factor涉足名人和好莱坞圈子，美国的美容业蓬勃发展。因为黑色唇膏是他宝库中的基础用具，Factor发明了“化妆”这个词。

      While black lipstick continued to be popular in film for decades, the color did not become a common household staple for some time .

       虽然黑色唇膏在电影中继续流行了几十年，但在一段时间内，这种颜色并没有成为一种常见的家庭必需品。

One of these later moments of black lipstick notoriety in the mainstream happened in 1927. This was the first recorded introduction of indelible, transformative lipstick. Brands introduced lipstick that changed from the bullet to your lips. The most notable came from the French brand Rouge Baiser, in the form of their Black Lipstick: an indelible ("kiss-proof") formula that changed from black in the tube to red on your lips. These were pricey for the era-selling for five times the cost of other lipsticks on the market ($5 compared to $1). Later, cheaper black lipsticks debuted from brands Tattoo and Tokalon.

       1927年，黑色口红在主流社会中开始失宠。这是第一次有纪录的介绍，推出了不易磨花的变革性唇膏。各大品牌推出了从“子弹”变成“嘴唇”的口红。其中最引人注目的是法国品牌Rouge Baiser的黑色口红:一种不易磨花(“不怕亲吻”)的配方，从管里的黑色变成嘴唇上的红色。这款口红在当时价格不菲，是市面上其他口红价格的5倍(5美元对1美元)。后来，文身(Tattoo)和托卡隆(Tokalon)等品牌推出了更便宜的黑色口红。

       The idea for this iteration of black lipstick comes from Paul Baudecroux, the chemist behind Rouge Baiser. The dye used in the lipstick was oil soluble, making the bullets look black, but there isn't enough free oil on the lips, so the makeup leaves behind a red stain rather than the deep red-black of the lipstick in the tube. The same kind of gimmick is used today in mood-changing lipsticks and cult favorites: just look at Lipstick Queen's "blue" lipstick and Gibenchy's Roue Interdit Magic Lipstick-not much has changed since this invention.

       这款黑色口红的创意来自于Rouge Baiser的化学家Paul Baudecroux。口红中使用的染料是油溶性的，使膏体看起来是黑色的，但嘴唇上没有足够的游离油脂，所以化妆品留下的是红色的痕迹，而不是口红管中的深红色的黑色。如今，在改变心情的口红和受人追捧的口红上也用了同样的噱头:只要看看唇膏皇后的“蓝色”口红和纪梵希的“禁忌之吻黑色唇膏”就知道了——自黑色口红出现以来，没有什么变化。

It was about a decade later that black lipstick went from public disapproval in Vogue to becoming a sellout shade on the high streets of London. In the 1960s, the iconic brand Biba becomes the arbiter of all things beauty, with gold, blue, purple, and black lipstick on every cool girl around.David Bowie was a store regular. Besides black lipstick, the brand had a deep dark brown hue-their first lipstick, actually, and it sold out instantly. Dark lipstick had finally made a mark on the public.

大约十年后，黑色口红从《Vogue》的公众反对变成了伦敦大街上的畅销品。在20世纪60年代，Biba这个标志性品牌成为了一切美丽事物的仲裁人，身边每一个酷女孩都涂上了金色、蓝色、紫色和黑色的口红。大卫·鲍伊是店里的常客。除了黑色的口红，该品牌还有深棕色的色调——实际上这是他们的第一款口红，一发售就卖光了。深色口红终于在大众面前留下了印记。

After the Biba girl came goth, which is perhaps what black lipstick is most known for now. In 1977, Manic Panic releases their first black lipstick, Raven. It's a semi-matte shade and is worn quite differently than in the era of Biba: rather than paired with a rainbow of shimmering, pastel, and jewel-toned clothes, goth girls prefer a deathly pallor.

在Biba女孩之后，又出现了哥特风格，这也许是目前最广为人知的黑色口红。1977年，Manic Panic发布了他们的第一支黑色口红Raven。这是一种半哑光的色调，涂起来和Biba完全不同:哥特女孩更喜欢死一般的苍白，而不是和闪闪发光、柔和、珠宝色调的彩虹衣服搭配。

They get what they want, and a lot of it, when Hot Topic first opens its doors in 1988. They begin selling lipstick catered to the goth crowd immediately and never stop. They don't just sell black, but blues, dark greens, and half-white tubes. Around this point, even drugstores had their own black greasepaint sticks during Halloween season.

当1988年“Hot Topic”第一次开张时，他们得偿所愿了。他们立即开始销售迎合哥特人群的口红，从未停止。不只卖黑色，还有蓝色、深绿色和半白色的口红管。在这一时期，甚至药店在万圣节期间也有自己的黑色油彩棒。

Eight Halloweens later and black lipstick comes out of the Halloween aisle and into the mainstream beauty market once more. In 1996 Urban Decay launches with 12 shades of nail polish and ten shades of lipstick--one of them in black, called Oil Slick. It was sold until a few years ago, when they revamped their lipstick packaging and formulation, though you can still find it sparingly, on eBay, much like everything else precious and rare in the world.

8个万圣节之后，黑色口红从万圣节的货架上走出来，再次进入主流美容市场。1996年，Urban Decay推出了12种颜色的指甲油和10个颜色的口红——其中一个是黑色的，叫做Oil Slick。它直到几年前才被出售，当时他们修改了口红的包装和配方，不过你仍然可以在eBay网站上少量找到它，就像世界上其他珍贵而稀有的东西一样。

It is almost exactly a decade later that black lipstick returns to a less tragic platform of social commentary. In 2008, YSL launches YSL Gloss Pur Black for fall, sending models down the runway in black wigs and black lips.

几乎整整十年后，黑色口红重新回到一个不那么悲剧性的社会评论平台。2008年，YSL推出了YSL Gloss Pur Black秋季新品，模特们戴着黑色假发、涂着黑色嘴唇走上秀场。

From this point onward, black lipstick is more or less always a point of conversation in beauty communities. It's no surprise then that in 2013, MAC releases their own black shade for Black Friday, capitalizing both on the niche obsession with the color and the most shoppable day of the year. It's a limited-edition color and sells out instantly.

从这一点开始，黑色口红或多或少一直是美容界的一个话题。因此，MAC在2013年的黑色星期五发布了他们自己的黑色眼影也就不足为奇了，他们既利用了人们对颜色的小众痴迷，也利用了这一天是一年中最值得购物的一天。这是限量版的颜色，马上就卖光了。

Now, you'll notice black lipstick is pretty much everywhere. That's the thing with alternative identities: they get adopted and made into something entirely different. Culture eats culture and spits it back out, an undying monster. It's fitting that black lipstick is so connected to rebirth and the afterlife, considering how many lives it's gone through. No longer must goths journey to obscure punk venues and possibly hitch a ride in their mom's minivan to a fabled suburban Hot Topic: Instead, they may simply wander into their local Sephora or bodega for a quick pick-me-up of angst in a tube.

现在，你会注意到黑色口红几乎无处不在。另类物就会这样 :他们被接纳，变成完全不同的东西。文化吞噬文化又将其吐了出来，就像一只不死的怪物。考虑到它经历了多少次起伏，黑色口红与重生和来生联系如此紧密是很合适的。哥特族不再需要去不起眼的朋克场所，也不必搭上妈妈的小型货车到传说中的郊区Hot Topic：他们只需漫步到当地的丝芙兰或酒店里，就能找到一管黑色唇膏，展示出令人神清气爽的愤怒态度。