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Some recent fashion trends make sense. Take what's currently being called the Y2K aesthetic of wide-leg jeans, aggressive pink and metallic fabrics — a throwback to style sensibilities of the late 90s and early 2000s.
最近,一些时尚潮流趋势卷土重来。比如以阔腿裤、芭比粉和金属质感为代表的Y2K美学——一场带你回到90年代末00年代初的时尚狂欢。
*Tom Ford 2022春夏系列
Fashion moves in twenty year cycles, or so conventional wisdom has it, when tastemakers get nostalgic for their childhoods. For example, 1970s pop culture, resurrected the 1950s in the form of TV shows Happy Days and M*A*S*H and the musical Grease. And twenty years after that, the 1990s witnessed a return to 1970s-style singer-songwriters, such as Juliana Hatfield and PJ Harvey, and an era-defining cover of Cat Stevens' 1971 song "Peace Train."
“时尚二十年一轮回。” 这有可能是真理,也有可能是因为品牌设计师们借时尚怀念逝去的童年,久而久之便形成的一种传统观念。举个例子,电视节目Happy Days 、M*A*S*H和音乐剧《油脂》让1950年代在二十年后的流行文化中苏醒;而1990年代见证了1970年代风格的创作歌手的回归,如Juliana Hatfield和PJ Harvey,以及Cat Stevens1971年的歌曲"Peace Train"划时代的封面。
*左为音乐剧油脂DVD封面,右为PeaceTrain单曲封面
But the nostalgia loop has sped up. "So much faster than twenty years," says Rebecca Jennings, a senior correspondent for Vox who covers internet culture . Jennings points to TikTok videos nostalgic for makeup trends dating all the way back to...2016, when makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic was busy breaking the internet by contouring Kim Kardashian's cheekbones and dramatically boxing her brows. Or look, Jennings says, to last year's much-hyped vogue for wired headsets, a vintage accessory dating all the way back to before the advent of wireless ear buds — around 2015.
但怀旧的循环已经明显提速。“比二十年快得多,”Vox报道互联网文化的高级记者Rebecca Jennings说。她指出TikTok的怀旧化妆趋势可以一直追溯到2016年:化妆师Mario Dedivanovic正忙着修饰卡戴珊的颧骨,戏剧性地“拳击”她的眉毛,此举轰动全网。Jennings说,看看去年大肆炒作的有线耳机时尚,这是一种“复古”配件——在无线耳机出现之前——大约在2015年。
*去年短暂风靡的有线耳机时尚
"When the kids on the internet are talking about like 2014core or tumblr fashion, what they're talking about is the stuff that semi-alternative kids were lusting over at that time," Jennings explains. Stuff like Lana Del Rey, Arctic Monkeys and tiny, Lolita-esque tennis skirts, all of which can be found in abundance on HBO's hit Euphoria.
Jennings解释道:“当孩子们在网上谈论着2014年的时尚核心和‘汤不热’时,他们谈论的是当时那些半另类的孩子们渴望的东西:比如兰娜德芮,摇滚乐队北极猴子和洛丽塔式的小巧网球裙...”你可以在HBO的热播剧《亢奋》中找到它们的身影。
*Lana Del Rey和Arctic Monkeys
分别在2014与2013年发行的专辑封面
Watching the show, Alysha Cassis-Shaw wondered, "What year are we in? 2000? 2005?" The owner of the vintage brand called Neutral Ground describes Euphoria's style as bewitching but disorienting: it borrows from the style of early '90s Paris Hilton and Britney Spears to the ubiquitous Peter Pan collars of 2009 to the high waisted pants that were in until, well, very recently — and already may be making a comeback.
《亢奋》的忠实观众Alysha Cassis-Shaw表示疑惑:“现在是哪一年?2000年吗?还是2005年?”复古品牌Neutral Ground的经营者这样描述“亢奋风”——迷人且眩晕:它借鉴了 90 年代早期帕里斯希尔顿和小甜甜布兰妮的风格、2009 年无处不在的彼得潘式衣领以及高腰裤,这些时尚元素正气势汹汹地卷土重来。
*图为《亢奋》剧照
"These are contemporary kids using a hodgepodge of styles," Cassis-Shaw says. You don't have to have a lot of money, she notes, to shop from resale outlets like ThredUp, stuffed with two decades of fast fashion cycling in and out of style, all of which can be studied on Instagram. And when you can so easily consume "vintage" clothes from H&M or Delia's, the ingredients are in place for what writer Allison P. Davis memorably called a "vibe shift" in a recent article for New York magazine. Normal rhythms of trends and style get scrambled by the hectic churn of social media.
“这是当代孩子们的风格大杂烩,”Cassis-Shaw说。她指出,你不需要有大笔财富,就可以从ThredUp这样的二手店购物,那里充斥着20年来快速时尚潮流的循环往复,所有的这些都可以在Instagram上学习。作家Allison P. Davis在最近为《纽约杂志》撰写的一篇文章中提到,当你可以随心所欲地购买H&M或Delia所谓的“复古”服装时,“氛围感转变”的要素已经到位。正常的潮流和风格循环节奏被步履匆匆的社交媒体搅乱了。
"TikTok has a weird way of making every single thing in style at once," notes Rebecca Jennings. "You can go to any corner of the app and something will be considered cool."Right now, she adds, it's easy to be nostalgic for the days before COVID. Some young people are even nostalgic for the early days of the pandemic, looking back fondly at Tiger King, Animal Crossing and making sourdough bread.
You know, way back before a new set of anxieties about the future.
Rebecca Jennings指出:“TikTok有一种很奇怪的方式,能让所有事都变得风靡全球。你可以打开TikTok的任何角落,看到那些人们觉得很酷的东西。”她补充说,现在人们情不自禁地怀念疫情之前的日子。一些年轻人甚至怀念疫情初期,那些观看《虎王》、玩动物森友会和制作酸面包的日子。那是在人们对未来充满焦虑前的生活。
重点词汇:
Resurrect:vt. 使复活;使复苏;vi. 复活;复苏
例:Here's Olga Palagia again: Greece was resurrected in about 1830.
希腊在十九世纪三十年代获得了新生。
Accessory: n. 附件, 配件;n.同谋, 帮凶, 包庇犯
例:The shop carries suits, coats, shirts, and miscellaneous accessories.
这家商店摆放着套装、大衣、衬衣和一些各色的小饰品。
Hectic: adj. 繁忙的;忙乱的
例:I spent a very hectic Sunday.
我度过了一个忙乱的星期天。
原文链接:
https://www.npr.org/2022/03/01/1081115609/from-tumblrcore-to-2014core-the-nostalgia-loop-is-getting-smaller-and-faster
编译|周奕言
排版|周奕言

