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联合国非物质文化遗产名录即将把法国烘焙界的代表——法棍收入其中。法棍正式成为一项人类应该珍视传承的文化传统。
法国将为“法棍”设立纪念日！
UNESCO experts gathering in Morocco this week decided that the French baguette – made only of flour, water, salt, and yeast – deserved U.N. recognition.
本周，联合国教科文组织的专家齐聚摩洛哥，决定将仅用面粉、水、盐和酵母制成的法国长棍面包列入联合国非物质文化遗产名录。
The U.N. cultural agency's chief, Audrey Azoulay, said the decision honors more than just bread; it recognizes the "savoir-faire of artisanal bakers" and "a daily ritual."
联合国教科文组织总干事奥德蕾·阿祖莱表示，这一决定不仅仅是对法棍的认可，更是对背后面包师的工匠精神和仪式感的认可。
图源：twitter
With the bread's new status, the French government said it planned to create an artisanal baguette day, called the "Open Bakehouse Day," to connect the French better with their heritage.
鉴于法棍的“新身份”，法国政府还计划设立一个手工法棍日，称其为“面包房开放日”，希望法国人能因此更加了解本国的文化遗产。
The "artisanal know-how and culture of baguette bread" was inscribed at the Morocco meeting among other global cultural heritage items, including Japan's Furyu-odori ritual dances, and Cuba's light rum masters.
这次的摩洛哥会议上被列入世界文化遗产项目的，除了“法棍面包的手工技艺和文化”外，还有日本的古龙舞和古巴的淡朗姆酒。
译注：“古龙舞”是日本民间舞蹈，寓意为受自然灾害的人带来慰藉。
非物质文化遗产名目中有许多世界各地的美食。食物特殊的筹备过程和其中包含的独特民俗文化，是其成为非物质文化遗产的重要标准。
图源：www.forbes.com
现有的名录中，有八种食物文化，分别是：新加坡的路边摊美食（Hawker culture from Singapore）、来自墨西哥、阿尔及利亚、突尼斯、毛里塔尼亚的粗小麦（Couscous from Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Mauritania）、墨西哥的菜谱（Mexican Cuisine）、法国烹饪（Gastronomic French cooking）、那不勒斯的的’Pizzaluolo‘披萨（The art of Neapolitan ‘Pizzaiuolo’）、来自塔吉克斯坦和乌兹别克斯坦的抓饭（Oshi Palav from Tajikistan and Palov from Uzbekistan）、韩国泡菜（Kimjang, the tradition Of making kimchi in Korea）
法棍竟然不是法国发明的？！
Although it seems like the quintessential French product, the true origins are unknownthe. Baguette was said to have been invented by Vienna-born baker August Zang in 1839. Zang put in place France's steam oven, making it possible to produce bread with a brittle crust yet fluffy interior.
尽管法棍看似是如假包换的法国产品，但法棍的真正起源却不得而知。一种说法认为法棍是维也纳面包师奥古斯特·臧于1839年发明的。他在法国安装了蒸汽烤箱生产面包。这种方式能让面包外酥里嫩。
顾客闻刚从烤箱里出炉的法棍 图源：www.local10.com
Legend has it that the baguette was invented by French bakers in the Napoleonic era so soldiers could carry it in their pockets. Two hundred years later, the baguette is still a symbol of French gastronomy.
也有一种说法认为，法棍是拿破仑时代的法国面包师发明的，方便士兵们装在口袋中携带。两百年过去了，法棍仍然是法国美食的标志。
The product's zenith did not come until the 1920s, with the advent of a French law preventing bakers from working before 4 a.m. The baguette's long, thin shape meant it could be made more quickly than its stodgy cousins, so it was the only bread that bakers could make in time for breakfast.
实际上直到上世纪20年代，法棍才迎来了鼎盛时期。当时，法国颁布禁止烘焙师在凌晨四点前工作的法律。由于法棍长而细，制作速度比其他充饥面包快，所以成为烘焙师唯一能赶在早餐时段做出的面包。
每年吃掉100亿？！
The baguette is indeed serious business. France's "Bread Observatory" – a venerable institution that closely follows the fortunes of the flute – notes that the French munch through 320 baguettes of one form or another every second. That's an average of half a baguette per person per day, and 10 billion every year.
法棍是法国的命脉产业之一。据久负盛名的法棍市场调研组织“面包观察站”统计，法国人每秒钟要吃掉320根不同类型的法棍。平均每人一天要吃掉半根，而全国每年消耗的法棍数量则多达100亿根。
图源：www.npr.org
France has more than 30,000 independent bakeries and the French consume around 10 billion baguettes a year. As the world confronts the coronavirus, millions are confined to their homes. In most places, the only people going to work are those whose jobs are deemed essential. In the U.S., that includes supermarket employees, pharmacists and postal workers. In France, it also includes bread bakers, or boulangers.
法国有超过3万家私人烘焙店，法国人每年买法棍的花销总额约为100亿。疫情期间，数百万人被隔离在家。在许多地区，只有从事必要岗位的人才去工作：在美国是超市售货员、药商和邮递员；而在法国，则是面包烘焙师。
Keeping up production of the nation's favorite loaf, the baguette, turns out to be essential to helping the French survive the crisis.
事实证明，法棍是法国人渡过疫情难关的重要支柱。
在圣查尔斯郊区的面包房外排队时，人们站在几英尺外。 图源：www.npr.org
"Every day, so many people thank me for staying open," Paris baker Tony Doré said. "If the bakeries started closing, people would be unnerved. In France, we eat bread at every meal. It's a tradition. We cannot go without good bread."
巴黎的烘焙师托尼·多雷说：“每天都有很多人感谢我，因为疫情阶段我仍然坚持营业。如果烘焙店也停业了，人们无疑会更加沮丧。在法国，顿顿有面包是我们一贯的传统。优质的面包对我们来说必不可少。
兽医努尔·艾哈迈德·米拉利和他9岁的儿子马尔万拿起一根法棍和一块蛋糕 图源：www.npr.org
‘劣质法棍’为何泛滥成风？
France's culture ministry warned of a "continuous decline" in the number of traditional bakeries, with some 400 closing every year over the past half-century.
此前，法国文化部曾警告称，传统面包店的数量“持续下降”，在过去的半个世纪里，每年约有400家面包店倒闭。
Despite the decline in traditional bakery numbers today, France's 67 million people still remain voracious baguette consumers – purchased at a variety of sales points, including in supermarkets. The problem is, observers say, that they can often be poor in quality.
如今，尽管面包店的数量在减少，法国人对于法棍的热情却从未消退，他们仍然可以在各种地方买到种类繁多的法棍。然而，观察人士表示法棍发展的困境在于质量的良莠不齐。
In January, French supermarket chain Leclerc was criticized by traditional bakers and farmers for its much publicized 29-cent baguette, accused of sacrificing the quality of the famed 26-inch loaf.
一月，法国传统面包师和农民谴责了勒克莱尔连锁超市。该超市主推的29美分法棍虽然价格低廉，但却流失了传统26英寸法棍的品质。
It is industrially produced, rarely crispy and certainly not provided with sesame or other bells and whistles. The company linked the action to a major advertising campaign in which it promises to "freeze" the mini-price for six months in order to protect people's purchasing power in the face of current inflation, which is making everything more expensive.
工业生产出的法棍几乎失去了酥脆感，当然也不会有芝麻或者其他丰富的小料。这种价格策略和该公司的广告宣传有关，即该公司保证将在通货膨胀使物价攀升的情况下，坚持稳住法棍的最低价，以此保证消费者的购买力。
Within a year, wheat prices have risen by around 30 percent. "If it were so cheap to produce a baguette, we would all drive Ferraris," commented Bruno Liégeon, a baker in Beaune.
一年之间，小麦的价格就上升了30%。“如果生产法棍的成本这么低的话，那我们都可以去开法拉利了。” 波恩的烘焙师布鲁诺·列金评论道。
图源：www.rnd.de
"It's very easy to get bad baguette in France. It's the traditional baguette from the traditional bakery that's in danger. It's about quality not quantity," said one Paris resident, Marine Fourchier, 52.
“劣质法棍现在比比皆是。真正陷入发展困境的其实是那些在传统面包店出售的经典法棍。令人担忧的是法棍的质量而不是数量。”52岁的巴黎市民马林·富希耶说道。
重点词汇
zenith：the time when sth is strongest and most successful 鼎盛时期；顶峰
例句：His career is now at its zenith.
venerable：people or things deserve respect because they are old, important, wise, etc.（因年高、显要、智慧等）令人尊重的，值得敬重的，受敬佩的
例句：Her Chinese friends referred to the empress as their venerable ancestor.
bells and whistles：additional features or accessories which are nonessential but very attractive 华而不实的点缀品
例句：It's a really basic application - no bells and whistles here.
原文链接：
https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2022/11/30/french-baguette-un-world-heritage-status/10804657002/
https://www.npr.org/2022/11/30/1139920888/france-baguette-unesco-cultural-heritage
https://www.npr.org/2020/04/09/829644234/boulangeries-are-helping-us-make-it-through-in-france-bakeries-remain-essential
https://www.npr.org/2021/02/22/970074473/frances-baguette-is-in-contention-to-receive-u-n-recognition
https://www.forbes.com/sites/ceciliarodriguez/2021/03/31/why-these-8-foods-are-cultural-heritage-you-must-try-at-least-once/?sh=17523e987def
编译 | 虞佳盟 玛迪娜 张若楠 吾丽巴丽亚
排版 | 吾丽巴丽亚
