Skin picking disorder
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什么是抓痕障碍?
Chloé is obsessed with her skin. The 19-year-old’s worst nightmare is a hormonal acne outbreak or waking up to a huge, red spot.
克洛伊为自己的皮肤抓狂不已。这个19岁女孩最大的梦魇就是粉刺爆发,或者是一觉醒来发现皮肤上出现巨大的红点。
When it happens, she heads straight to the bathroom. Standing in front of a magnifying mirror, eyes fixed on the offending pimple, she tugs, scratches and fiddles with her face. After half an hour or so, the spot has been replaced big a seeping wound. Dates and parties go out of the window. The only place Chloé visits is the pharmacist.
然后她就会一头扎进洗漱间,站在放大镜前,盯着这些讨厌的疙瘩,拉拽、抓挠、拨弄自己的脸。大约半个小时过后,红点就变成了一个巨大的渗着血的伤口。约会、派对就别想了,她能去的地方只有药店。
左图:抠皮前 右图:抠皮后 图源patientslounge.com
She has skin picking disorder. As the name suggests, those with the condition obsessively pick at their skin. It can stem from stress, anxiety, and even acute boredom, or be triggered by other skin conditions.
她有抓痕障碍症。正如其名,患有这种病的人会控制不住地抓挠自己的皮肤。这种病可能源于压力、焦虑,甚至是极度无聊或其他皮肤状况。
The more that people pick at their skin in the hope of attaining some kind of “perfection”, the more likely they are to find themselves covered in scars and wounds. It’s a hallucinogenic ally bad trip that plays out in front of the bathroom mirror and it can lead to strong feelings of shame, guilt, and isolation.
人们越是搔抓皮肤以求某种“完美”,就越可能导致自己的身上遍布伤口和伤疤。在浴室镜子前的“抓耳挠腮”像梦一样,十分糟糕*。它会使你产生强烈的羞耻感、负罪感和孤独感。
译注:a bad trip,即“迷幻之旅”,常指由致幻剂引起的急性心理不良反应。之所以称之为“旅行”,是因为这种感受非常奇怪,让人仿佛置身于一个完全不同的世界。
“My skin is more important to me than seeing my friends or studying,” Chloé says. She’s been obsessed with her skin throughout her teens. “I can’t keep myself from touching it. I have this fantasy that after I finish fiddling with my skin, it’ll be perfect. Instead, my skin gets ruined — I bleed, I get big scabs, and I can’t bear to go out.”
“比起与朋友相聚或学习,我的皮肤更重要。”克洛伊说。她从青少年时起就一直被自己的皮肤状态困扰:“我总是情不自禁地去碰它,我总幻想着在我搔抓完我的皮肤后,它将是完美的,但实际上恰恰相反,我的皮肤被完全摧毁了——我会流血,结大块的痂,无法忍受自己顶着这样的脸出门。”
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有了抓痕障碍该怎么办?
keep your hands busy – try squeezing a soft ball or putting on gloves
不要让你的手闲下来——可以尝试握住一个软球或者戴上手套.
identify when and where you most commonly pick your skin and try to avoid these triggers
搞清楚你在何时何地最常抓挠皮肤,并尽量远离这些诱因。
try to resist for longer and longer each time you feel the urge to pick
每次你有抓挠皮肤的冲动时,努力忍受更长的时间。
care for your skin when you get the urge to pick it – for example, by applying moisturizer
当你迫切地抓挠皮肤后,要护理好皮肤——比如,涂抹润肤霜。
tell other people – they can help you recognize when you're picking
告诉其他人——当你没意识到自己在抓挠时,他们会提醒你。
keep your skin clean to avoid infection
保持皮肤清洁来避免感染。
do not let your nails grow long – keep them trimmed
不要让你的指甲长得太长——保持指甲修剪整洁。
do not keep things like tweezers and pins where you can easily get at them
不要把镊子和别针之类的东西放在容易拿的地方。
How exactly does someone recover from the condition? For dermatologist Perret-Court the first step is understanding and accepting the fact there really is no such thing as “perfect” skin. Then, obviously, you need to treat the source problem — which might be something like acne. And one more bit of advice from the doctor: throw away your magnifying mirror.
怎样才能从抓痕障碍中恢复?皮肤科医生佩雷特-考特认为,第一步是理解并接受这个事实——世界上真的没有所谓的“完美”皮肤。然后,显然你需要处理源头问题——可能是像痤疮之类的疾病。还有一条来自医生的建议:不要小题大做。
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护肤品真的有用吗?
Those who are not satisfied with their skin conditions often turn to skincare products for help. However, it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly when skincare—a term that’s come to signify far more than merely caring for one’s skin—became the pervasive cultural trend it is today. Korean cosmetic brand K-Beauty was popular for a 10-step skincare routine, which involves, in this precise order: an oil cleanser, a foam or cream cleanser, a toner, an essence, an emulsion, a serum, a sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer, and, finally, sunscreen.
不满意自己皮肤状况的人常常指望护肤品能拯救自己。然而,很难准确地指出护肤品(这个词的含义远不止是保养皮肤)是何时成为今天这种普遍的文化趋势的。韩国化妆品品牌K-Beauty曾因其10步护肤法而大受欢迎,其具体顺序包括:油类洁面乳、泡沫洁面乳或面霜洁面乳、爽肤水、精华液、乳液、精华素、面膜、眼霜、保湿霜,最后是防晒霜。
The global skin care products market size was valued at USD 130.50 billion in 2021 and is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate of 4.6% from 2022 to 2030.
2021年,全球护肤品市场规模为1305亿美元,预计2022年至2030年将以4.6%的复合年增长率增长。
The skincare industry is still thriving and projected to scale. But there are signs of growing discontents: some women who once bought into the mainstream mythologies surrounding skincare wholesale, have begun to question the merits of such elaborate routines, and wonder whether they’re doing more harm than good to their skin—or if the products have any effect at all.
护肤品行业仍在蓬勃发展,并有望扩大规模。但有迹象表明,用户的不满情绪在不断增长:一些曾经相信护肤品批发的主流神话的女性,开始质疑这种精心制作的护肤程序的优点,并怀疑它们对皮肤的伤害是否大于其带来的好处——或是怀疑这些产品是否有任何效果。
Fatigued by multi-step regimens and lackluster results, some people are dramatically scaling back how many skincare products they use. And the Minimalist Skincare Routine has risen.
一些人对护肤品繁杂的步骤和低效的结果感到厌倦,他们正在大幅减少对护肤品的使用,极简主义护肤法成为热潮。
一种极简主义护肤法
Former skincare enthusiast Hinz says now the definitive advice she gives people still entrenched in complicated and costly skincare regimens is: If you can, go see a doctor. “It turns out I didn’t have many of the issues I thought I had with my skin,” Hinz said. “I strongly believe that the best thing you can do for your skin is to skip all the craziness and save yourself the trouble by seeing a dermatologist. Anyway, don’t feel too anxious about it.”
辛兹之前是护肤爱好者,现在她明确建议那些仍坚持复杂昂贵的护肤方案的人:尽可能去看医生。“事实证明,我的皮肤没有出现很多我以为会有的问题。”她说道,“我坚信你能为皮肤做的最好的事情就是避免陷入疯狂,并且去看皮肤科医生,这样才能省去麻烦。无论如何,不要对此太过焦虑。”
重点词汇
seep
to flow slowly and in small quantities through sth or into sth 渗;渗透
【例句】 Blood was beginning to seep through the bandages. 血开始从绷带上渗出来。
hallucinogenic
a hallucinogenic drug is one that makes you hallucinate.引起幻觉的
【例句】Hallucinogenic drugs are mind - altering substances.
致幻剂是对精神起特殊作用的物质。
regimen
a set of rules about food and exercise or medical treatment that you follow in order to stay healthy or to improve your health 生活规则;养生之道;养生法
【例句】Few mortals could stick to that harsh regimen, especially for years on end.
很少有人能坚持这么苛刻的养生法,尤其是坚持这么多年。
原文链接:
https://www.vice.com/en/article/akvkvp/what-is-skin-picking-disorder-dermatillomania
https://www.nhs.uk/mental-health/conditions/skin-picking-disorder/
https://www.vice.com/en/article/ywypb5/do-you-really-need-a-skincare-routine-korean-beauty-dermatologists
编译 | 李在阳 杨柏芸 阮佳炫 徐叶 格桑雍珍
排版 | 李在阳

