沉寂数年，高跟鞋热度回归，光芒万丈！

Heels are making a serious comeback, with stars leading the post-lockdown trend for towering footwear.

疫情封锁后，在明星们引领的风尚下，高跟鞋热度回归。

Beyoncé donned a pair of six-inch hot pink Versace platform heels to an event in August, spurring an internet frenzy over the item.  Celebrities like Blackpink's Rosé were seen sporting similar styles at the White House and Met Gala, respectively.

碧昂斯在八月的一次大型活动中穿了一双范思哲的跟高约15公分的性感粉色厚底高跟鞋。此后，全网爆发了一阵对这款鞋的追捧。有人看到其他名人们，包括Blackpink组合的Rosé在出席白宫活动和纽约大都会艺术博物馆慈善舞会时也穿了款式相似的鞋子。

"People just want to feel happy again," said celebrity stylist Nicole Chavez in a video call, adding that high heels, particularly bright-colored and sparkly ones, are part of the greater "mood-enhancing" fashion seen across the board, from clothing to accessories.

“人们只是想寻回快乐。”明星造型师Nicole Chavez在一个视频采访中说。她补充说，高跟鞋，尤其是亮色闪耀款的，反映了一种“提振心情”的时尚风潮全面来袭，从服装到配饰一应俱全。

Bowen Yang身穿银色高跟鞋出席艾美奖颁奖现场

"Right now, it's platform everything. The higher, the chunkier, the better." But women aren't the only ones wearing platforms. Rapper and singer Lil Nas X often wears them with his flamboyant outfits."Saturday Night Live" star Bowen Yang spiced up a more traditional facing black suit at the Emmys with silver ones by Brooklyn based Syro, which brands itself as "femme footwear 4 everyone."

“现在，厚底鞋就代表着一切。鞋底越高、越厚，就越好。”而爱穿厚底鞋的并非只有女性。说唱歌手Lil Nas X经常用厚底鞋来搭配华服；参加过“周六夜现场”节目的明星Bowen Yang，在艾美奖上以一双产自布鲁克林的Syro（一个主打“给所有人穿的女款鞋”的鞋子品牌）银色厚底鞋，搭配了相对传统的黑西装。

Syro co-founder Shaobo Han says that the shoes have become a tool for self-expression as people increasingly challenge and blur gender binaries. "Being able to display that femininity (on the street) without feeling ashamed is powerful," Han explained.

Syro品牌的联合创始人Shaobo Han称，人们正越来越多地对性别二元论发起挑战、尝试模糊男女两性间的界限，而鞋子已经成了一种自我表达的工具。“一个能毫无心理障碍地当众展现女性魅力的人内心非常强大”Han解释道。

The popularity of platforms has risen and fallen throughout history. Ancient platforms existed as far back as 6th century BCE. Over time they evolved, encompassing East Asian wooden styles worn by Manchu women during the Qing dynasty and the lavishly patterned geometric ones of the 16th century, known as "chopines."

纵观历史，厚底鞋受人们欢迎的程度有起有落。早在公元前6世纪，厚底鞋就已经存在了。历经时代变迁，它逐渐演化出各种风格，其中包括清朝时期满族妇女所穿的东亚木底鞋，以及16世纪出现的有华丽几何图案的厚底鞋，叫“松糕鞋”。

清朝厚底鞋

Noblewomen in southern Europe would wear these "wildly high" platforms, increasing the length of the textiles, according to Elizabeth Hemmelseck, the director and senior curator of the BATA Shoe Museum in Toronto. One recorded pair was as high as twenty inches.

Elizabeth Hemmelseck是多伦多BATA鞋类博物馆的馆长兼高级策展人。据她所称，南欧的贵妇们则会穿一种“高得离谱”的厚底鞋，来搭配更加修长的丝织衣物。根据记录，这样一双厚底鞋的鞋跟约有半米（20英寸）高。

The platform heel -- which combined both a block sole and heel -- is believed to have emerged in 17th century Persia. The style was worn by Persian horseback riders as designers attempted to "figure out the architecture of the high heel.

而结合了厚底和鞋跟的厚底高跟鞋，则被认为是在 17 世纪的波斯出现的。设计师们在试图“弄清楚高跟鞋的构造”时，发现了波斯骑手所穿的这款高跟鞋。

Once the high heel was developed, they fell into obscurity before coming back into fashion during the 1930s, 1970s and late 1990s and 2000s. Interest in platforms seems to grow during times of "social unrest and economic stress," Hemmelseck observed.

高跟鞋最初被发明后几乎无人问津，直到 20世纪的30 年代、70 年代、90 年代后期和 21世纪的00 年代，它们才重新流行起来。Hemmelseck 观察到，在充斥着“社会动荡和经济压力”的时期，人们似乎会对厚底鞋更有兴趣。

"Why (is it that) during the Great Depression the shoes go bananas?" she asked. "Why during the oil crisis and the economic woes of the '70s (are) our shoes going crazy again? Is there some commonality?"

“为什么在大萧条期间，高跟鞋的销量会高得令人抓狂？为什么在石油危机和 70 年代的经济困境期间，高跟鞋的销量会再一次疯长？其中缘由是否有什么共性？”Hemmelseck提出疑问。

It's a trend that technology company IBM researched in 2011 with a study exploring why heels go higher during these , as well as during later crises like the dot-com bubble bursting in the late '90s.

2011 年，科技公司 IBM进行了一项研究，探究了为何在以上种种充满挑战的时期，以及在之后的各种危机（如 90 年代末的互联网泡沫破裂危机）之中，高跟鞋的销量一路走高。

"Usually, in an economic downturn, heels go up and stay up, as consumers turn to more flamboyant fashions as a means of fantasy and escape," IBM's consumer products expert Trevor Davis, is quoted as saying in the report.

报告中援引了 IBM 消费品专家Trevor Davis的话：“在经济不景气的情况下，高跟鞋的销量通常会持续上涨，消费者会在危机中追求更加华丽的时尚，来沉溺梦幻、逃避现实。”

If there was ever a fantasy shoe, it was the one created by Italian shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo. In 1938, during the Great Depression the designer released "The Rainbow" -- platforms sporting a multi-colored sole. They were made with cork as well as colored leather, a material that was scarce at the time.

如果真的有过“梦中情鞋”，那一定是意大利鞋类设计师萨尔瓦多·菲拉格慕（Salvatore Ferragamo）打造的那双。1938年，在大萧条时期，设计师发布了"彩虹"——一双缤纷多彩的厚底鞋。“彩虹”由用软木和彩色皮革制成，这些材料在当时十分稀缺。

“彩虹鞋”

Beyond being a form of escapism, however, platforms again rose in popularity in the 1930s due to pragmatism, Hemmelseck speculated. Many women at the time couldn't afford a luxurious wardrobe, so investing in an expensive platform heel that could be worn with many outfits offered a way to participate in fashion trends through a "single outrageous accessory," she said.

Hemmelseck推测，除了作为逃避现实的形式之外，厚底鞋在 30年代再次流行起来也出于实用主义。当时的许多女性买不起豪华的衣饰，因此将目光转向可以搭配各种服装的奢侈厚底鞋。她们借助“单一且浮夸的配饰”，提供了紧跟时尚潮流的新思路。

In the 1970s, the platform heel once again saw a resurgence, with the likes of David Bowie and John Travolta storming the stage with sky-high versions. On stars like them, the shoes presented "larger questions about the (gender) binary," Hemmelseck added.

1970 年代，厚底高跟鞋跟再次复兴，大卫·鲍伊 (David Bowie) 和约翰·特拉沃尔塔 (John Travolta) 等人穿着“恨天高”冲上舞台。Hemmelseck补充道，这样的明星穿这样的鞋子，向公众提出了“关于（性别）二元论的更重要的问题”。

In 2021, "dopamine dressing" has become a widely used term in fashion, characterizing the desire for bolder, brighter, sexier outfits.

2021 年，“多巴胺穿衣”风格已成为时尚界广泛使用的术语，代表着人们渴望更前卫、更明亮、更性感的服装。

Some of Syro's creations -- such as ostentatious red platforms and the metallic silver ones -- have coincided with this trend, selling out almost immediately to the surprise of co-founders Han and Henry Bae.

Syro 品牌的一些设计成品——例如耀眼的红色厚底鞋和金属银色厚底鞋恰好赶上潮流的“班车”，一上市几乎立即售罄，联合创始人 Han 和 Henry Bae 感到惊讶。

模特身穿Syro的红色高跟鞋

But the platform shoe is more than just a fun piece of footwear -- it's a form of gender expression, added Han, who uses they and them pronouns.

但厚底鞋可不仅仅是一双独特的鞋子这么简单，它也是体现性别气质的形式之一。反对性别二元论，用ta作为代称的Han表示。

译注：用无性别指向的代词（they, them）代替he，she等有性别指向的代词，既反对性别二元论

They said, Syro was created to fill the need for "everyday platforms for non-conforming people... objects that really express how we see ourselves." Growing up, Han recalled, femininity was "used against me," but the shoes now act as a reclamation of that femininity.

Han说，“Syro”的设计目标是成为“一种非二元性别人群的日常着装，一个我们对自己身份认同的真实体现”。Han回忆起自己的过去：在成长过程中，女性气质曾是“攻击我的武器”。但如今，TA穿的鞋子标志着TA对自己身上女性气质的重新接纳。

"People want to feel powerful and (be) powerful. That's something I think platforms really make all of us feel. The moment you put them on, the additional five-inch height that you automatically get, you just start to suddenly see the world differently," they said.

“每个人都希望感到内心的力量。我觉得，厚底鞋就是那个让我们产生力量的物品。当你穿上一双厚底鞋的瞬间，你站起来，发现这双鞋让你变高了12公分（五英寸），你会立刻以一种全新的视角看这个世界。”Han说。

"Living our life as authentically and as joyfully is a protest against the repression that we've been feeling."

“真实而快乐地生活，是对强加于我们身上的压力的一种抗议。”

知识卡片：高跟鞋种类

重点词汇及表达

flamboyant：adj.华丽的 elaborately or excessively ornamented 

例句：He wears flamboyant clothes more suited to a rock star than a literary figure.

go bananas：激动，疯狂 to be crazy 

例句：Your dad will go bananas if he finds you were smoking.

outrageous：adj. 骇人的;残暴的;肆无忌惮的 If you describe something as outrageous, you are emphasizing that it is unacceptable or very shocking. 

例句：The "wild and outrageous" dances transformed into a more subtle, stylized, and controlled form of dance.

ostentatious：adj. 夸耀的；铺张的；惹人注目的 expensive or noticeable in a way that is intended to impress people

例句：They are not ostentatious and there's often a play of light and joyful pure colours.