从牛仔竞技表演到巴黎T台
Fashion never met a niche it couldn’t barrel its way into. But the world of cowboy wear was, for so long, the province of dusty Western-inspired stores and rodeos, not Paris runways. Growing up in the Northeast, where people would proudly declare on their Facebook profiles that they listened to “everything but country,” being a fan of the music and its trappings felt like a corny, anti-fashion statement—incompatible with a love of avant-garde designers.
任何产品的市场定位都难免与“时尚”一词挂钩。但长久以来，“牛仔服”这种服饰却只能身处尘土飞扬的西部风格商店和牛仔竞技表演之中，而无法在时尚的巴黎T台上大放异彩。在美国东北部长大的人会在自己的脸书主页上自豪地宣称，自己“什么都听，就是不听乡村音乐”。在他们眼中，身为美国乡村音乐及乡村服饰的粉丝，就仿佛声明了自己思想陈旧、反对时尚，与对前卫设计师的热爱格格不入。
无畏的特技骑手Tad Lucas被广泛认为是牛仔竞技的第一夫人。
Of course, there were exceptions. High fashion Western wear owes a huge debt to Ralph Lauren, who made the frontier look chic. In the ’90s, Moschino played with cowgirl tropes on the Milan runways, and Madonna’s Music era in 2000 included chaps and fringed Western shirts. In 2013, Karl Lagerfeld famously took Chanel’s pre-fall collection westward, showing denim, blanket coats, and turquoise baubles at the home of the Texas State Fair. And Raf Simons brought his own Euro slant to the motif during his tenure at Calvin Klein.
当然，凡事都有例外。西部高级时尚服装的发展很大程度上要归功于时尚巨头Ralph Lauren，是他让牛仔服这种边疆服饰焕发了时尚的光彩。上世纪90年代，意大利品牌Moschino在米兰的T台上展示了牛仔女郎的形象；2000年，麦当娜在自己的音乐时代期间，尝试了皮套裤和流苏西部衬衫的搭配。2013年，德国著名服装设计师 Karl Lagerfeld 把香奈儿的早秋系列时装推广到了西部，让牛仔布、毯绒大衣和绿松石饰品登上了德州博览会的主场；比利时时装设计师Raf Simons 在美国知名时尚品牌CK任职期间，也将自己的欧洲风格融入到了西部主题中。
Casablanca 2023年春季服饰
深受年轻艺术家的青睐
Today, a less rugged, more maximalist yeehaw style abounds, driven by musical artists who come from every genre. There’s Lil Nas X reframing the cowboy archetype through a Black, queer lens; Rina Sawayama donning a bedazzled ten-gallon hat; Beyoncé on horseback, brandishing a white cowboy hat, for Renaissance; Kacey Musgraves sporting fringed pieces from Versace and Balmain, and Megan Thee Stallion in a 10-gallon hat and latex dress.
今天，一种不那么粗犷的、极繁主义*的牛仔风格在来自各个流派的音乐艺术家的推动下随处可见。美国说唱歌手Lil Nas X 通过黑人、酷儿的镜头重新塑造了牛仔的原型；日裔歌手Rina sawayama（泽山璃奈）戴着一顶令人眼花缭乱的牛仔宽边高顶帽；天后Beyoncé在专辑《RENAISSANCE》中，在马背上挥舞着白色的牛仔帽；美国复古乡村音乐才女Kacey Musgraves穿着范思哲和巴尔曼的流苏服饰；饶舌女歌手Megan Thee Stallion 戴着牛仔宽边高顶帽，身穿乳胶裙。
译注：极繁主义，一种包含着“过度”的意味，但却是精心策划的混合风格。
左为 Beyoncé专辑《RENAISSANCE》封面，右为Rina Sawayama穿着西服表演
As younger artists re-interpret the country tunes of their youth there’s been a related shift towards re-examining the styles of that time. While she’s never waded into the Nashville sound*, Phoebe Bridgers recently traded her usual Gucci finery for a bedazzled Nudie-style suit, and the cover of her Sidelines single is a black-and-white image of a bull rider.
在年轻的艺术家们重新诠释自己昔年所见的乡村风格时，许多人也改变了眼光，开始重新审视那个时代的风格。虽然创作歌手Phoebe Bridgers 从未做过美国乡村音乐，但她最近把自己一贯穿着的Gucci服饰换成了耀眼的牛仔服，她的单曲《Sidelines》的封面也是一张牛仔骑牛的黑白照。
译注：Nashville Sound，即纳什维尔之声，是美国乡村乐的一个分支，20世纪50年代，纳什维尔成了乡村音乐的集中营，著名的乡村音乐家大部分都来自这里。因此，“纳什维尔之声”也成了乡村音乐的代名词。
专辑《Sidelines》的封面
与设计师的奇妙碰撞
The trend has sunk its spurs into the runway, too, with big-time designers. Their sense of authenticity seems to be part of the appeal: these are well-crafted, unpretentious clothes originally intended for hard labor, and the friction that happens when they meet couture detailing, or a Milan catwalk, makes for very interesting results.
大牌设计师们也将这股西部风潮注入到了T台之上。西部服装的吸引力有相当一部分是出于真实感：这些精心制作、朴实无华的衣服原本是为艰苦劳动设计的，当它们得到服装设计师的细心装饰，或是站在米兰的时尚T台上时，就会像摩擦生热一般，产生极富吸引力的成果。
Texas boy Daniel Roseberry favors denim-on-denim, something that was a rare sight in the Paris halls of the house of Schiaparelli before his tenure. For fall 2022, he evoked a high fashion Texas tuxedo with a contrast-stitched jumpsuit.
德州的年轻设计师Daniel Roseberry对牛仔布情有独钟。在他任职于法国品牌Schiaparelli之前，该品牌在巴黎的时装大厅中极少会展出牛仔布这种面料。2022年秋季，他以一条对比色鲜明的连衣裤搭配了一件德州燕尾服，鲜明地勾勒出了后者的高级时尚感。
Schiaparelli于2022年秋季展出的成衣系列
At Dior’s cruise show in Seville, Maria Grazia Chiuri was primarily inspired by flamenco and the traditions of southern Spain. But she also drew on images of Jackie Onassis riding with the Duchess of Alba for equestrian touches that leaned Western, like heavily embellished chaps.
Dior曾于塞维利亚举办过一场游轮秀。创意总监Maria Grazia Chiuri设计本次游轮秀的灵感主要来自弗拉门戈舞*和西班牙南部的传统风俗，但她也借鉴了杰奎琳·肯尼迪夫人与阿尔巴公爵夫人一起骑马的画面，为秀场带来了西部的马术牛仔风服饰，如装饰华丽的皮套裤等。
译注：弗拉门戈舞，西班牙境内的安达卢西亚地区吉普赛人的舞蹈。
Dior 2023 早春系列
And street style has undoubtedly taken its cues from pop stars’ and designers’ wholehearted embrace of all things urban cowboy. Nancy Sinatra-worthy boots are now as mainstream as fashion sneakers. This season, you’ll likely see a season of Dallas’s worth of Western accessories off-runway. And on-runway, too. After all, when it comes to cowgirl style, it’s hardly fashion’s first rodeo.
流行明星和设计师们全身心地投入都市牛仔风格，而这无疑也给街头风格带来了某种灵感。歌手Nancy Sinatra风格的靴子现在已和时尚运动鞋一样成为主流。当季，你很可能会在德州达拉斯城看到西部风格的配饰出现在T台之外——当然，也会出现在T台之上。毕竟，在这种“牛仔女孩风”流行之前，牛仔风格已在时尚界的竞技之中磨炼已久了。
重点词汇
avant-garde n.（艺术、音乐或文学方面的）前卫派思想；前卫派（艺术家等）
adj.前卫的，激进的
例句：This is a significant aspect of avant-garde aesthetics.
这是先锋美学的一个重要方面。
原文链接：
https://www.elle.com/fashion/a41092576/western-fashion-trend-2022/
编译 | 索朗央宗
排版 | 郝喜桓 索朗央宗
