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说到“喷射战士”这个梗，大家第一时间想到的可能都是有着食品卫生问题的品牌。但是你能想象到高大上的星巴克也推出了一款能让顾客化身“喷射战士”的饮品吗？更有意思的是，导致这一切的原因反而是星巴克对健康与高品质的追求。
本文约1900字，阅读需要大约6分钟
01
星巴克的新品风波
星巴克的新品系列Oleato于今年2月在意大利推出。系列里的每一款饮料——燕麦牛奶拿铁、燕麦牛奶冰摇浓缩咖啡、金色泡沫冷萃——都会加上一勺120卡路里的橄榄油。而这一系列目前也登陆了美国部分门店。
(Oleato作为星巴克高品质咖啡与特级初榨橄榄油的结合，不但口味十分独特，对于健康也很有益)
“It is one of the biggest launches we’ve had in decades,” Brady Brewer, Starbucks’ chief marketing officer, told CNN. Former CEO Howard Schultz added in an interview with Poppy Harlow that it will “transform the coffee industry,” and be “a very profitable new addition to the company.”
星巴克首席营销官布雷迪·布鲁尔在接受CNN采访时表示:“这是星巴克几十年来最重量级的新品发布之一。” 而他的前任霍华德·舒尔茨也在采访时表示，这一新品将改变整个咖啡行业，并成为“非常畅销的星巴克新星”。
But what the company may not have taken into account: Some customers say it’s making them have to run to the bathroom. “Half the team tried it yesterday and a few ended up… needing to use the restroom, if ya know what I mean,” a barista on the Starbucks Reddit page posted.
但星巴克没有预料到的是，一些客户表示这款新品让他们变成了“喷射战士”。一位咖啡师在星巴克红迪官方(Reddit，国外知名网络社交论坛APP）上评论道:“昨天我们团队有一半人都尝试了这款新品，结果好几个人喝完后……额，都冲进了厕所。”
（喷射战士的梗来源于任天堂著名游戏《喷射战士》，至于这个梗怎么来的，只可意会不可言传）
It might be the sheen from the oil. Or it could be the aftertaste. Social media was swift with condemning the drink – and the after effects. “That oleato drink from starbs makin my stomach speak,” one user tweeted. Those with sensitive stomachs are already weary. “IBD patient here. I wouldn’t touch these drinks with a ten-foot pole,” one Redditor said.
也许是因为发绿的油光，或是因为油腻的回味，。社交媒体上很快充满了对于产品及其“后遗症”的谴责。一名顾客在推特上这样评价道:“星巴克的Olaeto咖啡让我的胃翻江倒海。” 肠胃敏感的人更是早就心累了。“我是一名肠炎患者。我会离这款咖啡远远的。”
02
对于“喷射”现象的科学解释
Olive oil is a staple in Mediterranean culture and some drink bits of olive oil in the region daily. But the Starbucks drink has a potentially fragile combination: caffeine, which is a stimulant, and olive oil, which is a relaxant.
在地中海文化中，橄榄油是日常食品之一，当地的一些人甚至每天都会喝一点橄榄油。但星巴克选择了一种相克的搭配:将有兴奋功效的咖啡因和有松弛功效的橄榄油结合。
（你能想象地中海橄榄油跟咖啡的结合吗？）
A 16-ounce drink has as much as 34 grams of fat, which is more than what many find in a meal, registered dietitian nutritionist Erin Palinski-Wade said. And mineral oils like olive oils tend to be used to treat constipation because it helps soften the stool, making it easier to go the bathroom.
注册营养师艾琳·帕林斯基-韦德说，该款16盎司（约合473ml）的咖啡含有多达34克的脂肪，这比许多人在一顿饭中摄入的脂肪还要多。并且像橄榄油这样的矿物油往往被用来治疗便秘，因为它有助于软化大便，让你排便更加通畅。
“If you combined high fat in a meal or in a beverage along with coffee, which already stimulates the bowels,” Palinski-Wade said, “that combination can cause cramping. It can cause increased mobility in the colon and therefore have that laxative effect.”
帕林斯基-韦德说:“咖啡本来就会刺激肠道，如果你还把高脂肪的食物或饮料和它组合在一起，就会导致肠胃痉挛。这会刺激结肠的蠕动，因此具有通便的作用。”
（小小一杯咖啡竟能有如此大的“威力”）
Some customers said the speed at which they had to use the restroom after having the drink caught them off guard. But high fat meals take longer to digest than liquid olive oil, which will hit the digestive track faster, Palinski-Wade said. And most people in the US are drinking coffee on the go and aren’t pairing the drink with any carbohydrates and fibers to negate the impact.
一些顾客表示，喝完咖啡后“来感觉”的速度让他们措手不及。这是因为液体橄榄油比起高脂肪的食物消化起来更快，因而其进入消化道的速度也更快。在美国，大多数人都是把咖啡拿手里边走边喝，从不搭配任何碳水化合物和纤维来中和这一消化过程，从而使得其效果“立竿见影”。
The benefits of olive oil are widely circulated, linked to lowering the risk of cardiovascular disease to lowering blood pressure (though the positive health outcomes could be because the Mediterranean diet replaces unhealthy fats like butter with olive oil, The New York Times reported.) “(The drink) is not going to make somebody physically ill from the standpoint of having a negative impact on health,” Palinski-Wade said. “But more of that uncomfortable feeling of having to go in the bathroom or potentially cramping.”
据《纽约时报》报道，橄榄油的好处正在被广泛宣传，例如其可以降低患心血管疾病和高血压的风险(尽管原因可能是地中海饮食用源自植物的橄榄油取代了黄油等不健康的动物脂肪)。据帕林斯基-韦德所说，从健康的角度来看，这种饮料不会让人身体不适，它更多的是带来想要“喷射”或是肠胃痉挛的不舒服感觉。”
In the Mediterranean, taking a spoonful of olive oil a day is part of a daily routine. Former CEO Howard Schultz picked up this habit himself from olive oil producer Tommaso Asaro while in Sicily, Italy. “When we got together and started doing this ritual I said to [Asaro], I know you think I’m going to be crazy, but have you ever thought of infusing a tablespoon of olive oil with Starbucks coffee?” Schultz told CNN’s Poppy Harlow. “He thought it was a little strange.”
在地中海地区，每天吃一勺橄榄油已经成了当年居民的日常生活习惯。星巴克的前首席执行官霍华德·舒尔茨在意大利西西里岛，从橄榄油生产商托马索·阿萨罗那里了解并养成了这个习惯。据其所说，他曾经和阿萨罗探讨过这个想法，“我知道这听起来很疯狂，不过你有没有想过在星巴克的咖啡里加一勺橄榄油？”但即使是生活在地中海的阿萨罗也觉得这个组合很奇怪。汝之蜜糖，彼之砒霜，然而橄榄油和咖啡这一奇妙的组合似乎连地中海地区当地人都难以接受。
（看到自己天天吃的橄榄油被如此糟蹋，不知道意大利人是否想起了有着同样遭遇的菠萝披萨）
原文链接：https://edition.cnn.com/2023/04/08/business/starbucks-oleato-drink-stomach-issues/index.html
编译 | 李翱
排版 | 李翱
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