01
席卷TikTok的“颜值满级
(looksmaxxing)”是什么?
A new trend taking over TikTok is targeting vulnerable young men. The "looksmaxxing" phenomenon – to maximise one’s looks – is aimed at young men and boys who want to change their appearance to become more attractive and gain social acceptance.
TikTok 又兴起了一种新的趋势—— "looksmaxxing",极致追求外貌,力求“颜值满级”。这种风潮瞄准的是易受影响的年轻男性群体,他们希望改变自己的容貌,变得更具吸引力,以获得社会认可。
一些帅气硬朗的男人会在 TikTok 上分享各种“颜值满级”攻略。他们认为自己确实获得了“面部增益(facial gains)”。
# looksmaxxing
图源TikTok
TikTok上Kareem Shami的前后对比:左图(2020年,softmaxxing前),右图(2023年,softmaxxing后)
“颜值满级”的目标是把自己打造成最有魅力的样子,尤其重视下颌线、眼睛和体型,以此提升自己的“性价值(sexual market value)”。
他们认为,“颜值满级”的标准包括但不限于:
One of the most prominent features checked for is "hunter eyes", which refers to a positive canthal tilt, resembling that of a predatorial animal.
最突出的特征是“猎人眼”——眼睛眼角向上倾斜,类似于猎人或捕食性动物观察猎物时的眼神。
# looksmaxxing
曾主演暮光之城、蝙蝠侠的演员罗伯特·帕丁森的眼睛就是典型的“猎人眼”
/图源wikipedia
在外貌评价中,有些人认为撅起的嘴唇能够增加面部吸引力,使嘴唇看起来更丰满性感 / 图源 business insider
Additional features checked for include hollow cheeks and "pursed lips".
其他特征还包括凹陷的脸颊和“撅起的嘴唇”。
在浏览 TikTok 的时候,一些不满意自己外表的年轻男性会被引导进聊天室,在那里上传照片以换取容貌改进建议。
02
如何“颜值拉满”?
想要变得“颜值满级”,通常有两种方式。
一种是“柔性拉满 (softmaxxing)”,为改善外表而进行多种身体护理,比如清除面部痤疮、去健身、换个新发型,或者做保湿项目。
Additional practices have been associated with looksmaxxing, with a popular example being the act of "mewing", which involves performing various exercises with your tongue with the goal of achieving a "square jawline".
还有一些与“颜值满级”有关的练习,其中一个流行的例子是“喵喵叫 (mewing) ”,即一种舌肌训练,它包括用舌头做各种练习,目的是练就轮廓分明的“方形下巴”。
图源/mewing.coach
This progresses to "hardmaxxing", which is to improve one’s appearance by any means necessary, and those who practice them refer to themselves as "hardmaxxers".
第二种方式更极端——“刚性拉满 (hardmaxxing)”,为了变美什么都可以做。这些人则称自己为"hardmaxxers"。
这些非常规手段包括:
➽steroid use 类固醇*的使用
➽hair transplants and plastic surgery 植发和整形手术
➽using pumps for penis stretching 用泵拉伸阴茎
➽removing ribs for a sculpted waist 去除肋骨为腰部塑形
➽"bone-smashing", which involves using hammers to break bones in the face to look more masculine “碎骨”,即使用手术、筋膜枪等手段重塑脸上的骨头,让自己看起来更man
➽“节食满级 (starvemaxxing) ”,鼓励极端节食和饮食失调
➽“美白满级 (whitemaxxing) ”,即用面霜让自己看起来更白
➽“性张力满级 (edgemaxxing) ”,提高睾丸素来改善外表
译注:类固醇激素是一类脂溶性激素,又可以分为肾上腺皮质激素、性激素;睾丸素,又称睾酮、睾丸酮、睾甾酮,是一种类固醇荷尔蒙,具有维持肌肉强度及质量、维持骨质密度及强度、提神及提升体能等作用。
# looksmaxxing
"Bonesmashing"鼓励男性通过手术等手段重塑脸上的骨头。图源:letsteststudioads/TikTok
"It's really shocking," Dr Stuart Murray, director of the Eating Disorders Program at the University of Southern California, said. "The TikTok stuff out there is not evidence-based, but it's reported as science."
南加州大学的图尔特·默里博士说:“这真的很令人震惊,TikTok 上的内容没有任何依据,但它却被推崇者称为科学。”
03
"Looksmaxxing"的源头
是什么?
Looksmaxxing is rooted in harsh critiques. And at its core, it has ties to violence, suicide and incels (involuntary celibates) – men who blame women for their struggles with establishing romantic or sexual relationships.
“颜值满级”根植于对外表的严苛的批判。其核心与暴力、自杀和“非自愿独身者”(即那些因难以建立恋爱或性关系而怨恨女性的男性)有关。
Looksmaxxing roots in online incel (involuntarily celibate) forums. The trend has existed for at least a decade but has recently been popularised and redefined on TikTok, where it's reaching a widening demographic of teenage boys algorithmically predisposed to the "manosphere" subculture. (Created in opposition to feminism, the manosphere refers to a network of websites and online communities propagandising masculinity and misogyny.)
“颜值满级”一词最早就出自网络上的非自愿独身者论坛 (incel forums),有十多年历史了。
incel 一词是 involuntarily celibate 的缩写,这一术语最初由一名女同性恋学生在 90 年代末创造。在现实社会中,incel(非自愿独身者)大部分是异性恋的男性,因外貌、经济条件或其他非自愿的原因无法找到伴侣,难以建立两性关系,并把自己的不幸归结于女性,对性生活活跃的女性和男性、乃至一般女性群体持怨恨和敌对态度。
最近在 TikTok 上文艺复兴的“颜值满级”被重新定义,它的影响范围扩展到了越来越多的青少年男孩。算法倾向于将这群男孩归类到亚文化“男性圈(manosphere)”* 中。
译注:“男性圈”(manosphere)"用来描述一系列在线网站、论坛与社区,它们宣扬大男子主义和厌女观点。其成员普遍认为男性在社会上处于不利地位,并对女性持不满甚至敌对的态度。
Those who receive a low rating are often harassed for their appearance afterwards, with some forms of harassment including suicide encouragement.
在“颜值满级”中收到低评分的人经常会因为外表而受到攻击,攻击形式甚至包括教唆自杀。
Additional terms have been coined by these communities in an effort to "dominate others". These phrases include "mogging", which refers to asserting dominance over another person based on their appearance, and being "Y-pilled", which refers to one viewing themselves as more masculine than the other and is a spin on the phrase "redpilled".
这些群体发明了一些专用词汇来“碾压别人”。包括“mogging(恃靓行凶)”,意味着基于外表对别人进行支配;“Y药丸”*,指某人认为自己比别人更男性化。
译注:"Y-pilled"是从互联网文化中的“红药丸”概念衍生出来的一个术语。“红药丸”最初来源于《黑客帝国》电影中的一个场景,比喻接受一个难以接受的真理,后来在互联网上广泛用来指接受某种觉醒观念或现实。"Y-pilled" 的 "Y"代表Y染色体,指的是某人深信自己比其他人更具男性特质或更为男子汉,这种信念往往基于对性别角色和身份的极端看法。
图源网络
04
还有更多的xxxmaxxing?
除了针对男性的“颜值满级”,在reddit 论坛上也出现了女性对颜值提升的讨论,衍生出各种"maxxing"。
1. Health-Maxxing
Health-maxxing is the third type of looksmaxxing. It includes improving your diet, getting more sleep, drinking more water, and also mental health to reduce stress.
"Health-Maxxing"健康满级包括:
➽ 改善饮食
➽ 多运动
➽ 皮肤护理
➽ 充足睡眠
➽ 瑜伽
➽ 冥想(减轻压力)
2. Social-Maxxing
Social-maxxing is important to looksmaxxing because it helps improve how other people perceive you and treat you.
“社交满级”对外貌美容很重要,因为它有助于改善他人对你的看法和态度。
If you're a becky or even a femcel social maxxing has something to offer you. sure, it might not get you a date, but sometimes just understanding social contexts better or stepping into someone's shoes gives you some much needed insight.
如果你是一个becky*(普普通通毫无存在感的女性)或者甚至是一个女性非自愿独身者*,“社交满级”会对你有一些帮助。当然,这可能不会直接给你带来约会的机会,但有时只要你更好地了解社交环境或站在别人的角度考虑问题,就会带来一些不可或缺的洞察力。
译注:Becky指的是那些打扮朴素,没有好身材,以为男生喜欢天然素颜而不化妆的女学生或者女性打工人。
女性非自愿独身者指的是一些因为自卑、社恐、深度宅家找不到男友的女性。
➽ 减少社交焦虑
➽ 让别人喜欢你
➽ 提高自我意识
➽ 运用肢体语言
➽ 注意语气
➽ 提升魅力
➽ 了解人们的工作方式
➽ 熟知他人
➽ 如何调情
3.Pesonality-Maxxing
Personality-maxxing is social-maxxing's less manipulative big sister. Personality-maxxing stems from the idea that "stacy personality"* (at a certain level of attractiveness) can make you more appealing to men and other people.
“人格满级”是仅次于“社交满级”的“美颜”方法。人格魅力来自于 “stacy 个性”,可以让你对其他人更有吸引力这一观点。
译注:stacy 个性是在成长过程中形成的,即我们如何对待自己就会让别人如何对待我们。
以下是人格魅力的相关内容:
➽ 学会珍惜自己
➽ 获得“拽姐”心态(bad bitch mentality)
➽ 如何显得更有价值
➽ 美女心态(pretty girl mentality)
4. Mentality-Maxxing
Now this is the concrete foundation of looksmaxxing. Without the right mentality, you are going to fail. Maybe your expectations are too high, maybe you have a victim mentality, or maybe you're out of touch with reality.
“心态满级”被认为是颜值满级”的基础。没有正确的心态,你就会失败。也许你的期望值过高,也许你有受害者心态,也许你与现实脱节。
每个人都能从精神美化中受益。精神美化的例子如下:
➽ 摆脱 "要么全有,要么全无 "的心态
➽ 不要有受害者心态
➽ 如何有设置的期望
➽ 如何提高自我意识
➽ 如何坚韧不拔
➽ 找到目标/激情
➽ 情商/设身处地为他人着想
5. Money-Maxxing
You need money to looksmaxxing. Money gives you the power and freedom to do what you want. IDK what it is you want, but hopefully it's legal.
你需要金钱去实现“颜值满级”。钱让你有权力和自由做你想做的事。
包括:
➽ 省钱
➽ 做兼职
➽ 做调查赚钱
➽ 旧物销售
05
为什么要追逐
"looksmaxxing"?
Our with having a perfect appearance is an obsessive social disease alienating us from ourselves and others.
对完美外表的执念如社会性瘟疫一般,使人们让自己与他人疏远。
图源/the views
Researchers point to a link between trends such as looksmaxxing and the broader cultural pressures young people face. They’re growing up in an increasingly precarious world with war, post-pandemic anxiety, environmental degradation, unaffordable living and unstable employment. This is juxtaposed with neoliberal hyper-individualism, hypersexuality and consumer capitalism.
有研究指出,年轻人沉迷追求外貌优势最大化其实与宏观层面的社会压力有关。这一代人成长于一个险恶多变的世界,淹没于战争威胁、后疫情时代焦虑、环境恶化、难以负担的生活成本和不稳定的就业情况,于此同时还有极端个人主义化的新自由主义、过度性化和消费主义推波助澜。
当人们感到自己无法控制环境时,就可能转而在雕琢外貌中获得对人生的控制感,于是去追逐“颜值满级”的潮流。
此外,伦敦大学学院和肯特大学的研究人员发现,TikTok 算法放大了厌女内容(misogynistic content),使得这种现象在公共场合变得常态化。对此,TikTok 回应称其已经移除了这类内容,并对该研究的方法提出了质疑。
Dr Murray warns that behind the apparent self-improvement of looksmaxxing, there's a core message that could lead to psychological damage. "If we fall into the trap of dissatisfaction and low self-esteem, if you're diluting yourself down to a number or a skin tone, or an angular tilt of your face, it reduces your value as a person."
默里博士警告说,在光鲜亮丽的“颜值满级”带来的自我改善背后,隐藏着可能导致心理伤害的关键信息:“如果我们陷入对自己持续不满和自卑的牢笼,把自己简化为一个尺码、肤色或脸部骨骼的角度,这是在降低我们身而为人的价值。”
原文链接:
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20240326-inside-looksmaxxing-the-extreme-cosmetic-social-media-trend
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2024/feb/15/from-bone-smashing-to-chin-extensions-how-looksmaxxing-is-reshaping-young-mens-faces
https://theconversation.com/looksmaxxing-is-the-disturbing-tiktok-trend-turning-young-men-into-incels-221724
https://www.nytimes.com/2023/11/06/style/looksmaxxing-tik-tok-dillon-latham.html
https://www.mvviewer.org/spread/2024/01/31/the-dark-side-of-looksmaxxing/
https://www.reddit.com/r/HowToBeHot/comments/l9lpwb/types_of_looksmaxxing/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Looksmaxxing
编译|马宇欣 彭茨涵 艾妮古丽 王诗怡 武悦然 陈莲旖
排版|马宇欣
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