♔时尚是什么?♔
看着T台上那些奇形怪状的走秀,你是不是也曾冒出过“这是什么鬼”的念头?

或许下面这段来自The Devil Wears Prada(《穿普拉达的女王》)的电影独白能给我们一些启发。
故事情节是这样的:
Miranda正在会议室挑选腰带,站在一旁的Andy忍不住发出了笑声,说自己"I'm still learning about this stuff."Miranda听到stuff这个随意的说法,借机向Andy科普了天蓝色的时尚史,实力嘲讽了Andy的傲慢与无知。

This...stuff ?
Oh, ok. I see.
You think this has nothing to do with you.
You go to your closet and you select that lumpy, loose sweater, for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back, but what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue.
It's not turquoise. It's not lapis. It's actually cerulean.
And you're also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns, and then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent who showed cerulean military jackets, and then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers.
And then it filtered down through the department stores, and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you no doubt fished it out of some clearance bin.
However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs, and it's sort of comical how you think you made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you're wearing a sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.
这里要解释一个独特的时尚产业现象,即trickle down effect,涓滴效应。这种理论认为时尚总是从upper classes流动到lower classes,因为低层群体的需求是imitation---通过模仿向上层靠拢,而上层群体的需求则是differentiation---把自己和低层群体区分开来。因此,从本质上来说,时尚就必须不断变化以满足上层阶级的需求。
Miranda打脸Andy,不要以为时尚与你无关,你的每一个选择都是时尚的产物;而你所有的选择,在它们被投放到市场之前,实际上已经经过了层层的考量和挑选。
#Andy内心OS:画个圈圈诅咒你,本宝宝的内心是非常抗拒的。#

那么其实社会品味和文化消费是被塑造出来的,审美也不会凭空产生。Fashion both reflects and expresses the specific time in history, or the Zeitgeist.时尚同时反映也表现着历史中的某一个时期,或者说,时代精神。那些我们看不懂的秀场服饰,只是被设计师高度抽象出来还没有trickle down之前的形态,它们往往反映或表现了某一种社会文化上的矛盾或张力,
也许是不同年龄之间的选择---youth vs. age,
也许是性别之间的对话---masculinity vs. femininity,
也许是不同意识形态之间的角逐,是包容还是排他---inclusiveness vs. exclusiveness,
或者单纯就是生活方式的选择---work vs. play。
但与此同时,时尚也为我们提供了一种表达观点的符号体系。我们选择每天的服装,就在选择用哪一种符号来表达自我。
影片中Nigel开导Andy时说"This is art and this is greater than art, because you live in it."时尚是不是一种艺术,我们不好定义,但我们的确生活在其中。就像符号学的代表人物Roland Barthes说的,"Our experience of the world is never pure or innocent."生活在这张社会织成的大网中,我们很难游离于这种体系之外,很难自信满满的说上一句"I made a choice"。

然而也不用沮丧,
我们要么go with the flow,顺应潮流,享受便利,迎接社会为我们准备好的琳琅满目的可能性;要么就做一个用心的观察者,去解密自己的身份符号,发现自己和社会的关联,去探索这样一个充满哲学意味的命题——
毕竟,你之所以成为你,是一次多么有趣而又复杂的精神历险和社会实验呢~。

【好词好句划重点】
stuff: n. 东西
turquoise [ˈtɜ:kwɔɪz]: adj. 绿松石色的
lapis ['leɪpɪs]: n. 天青石色
cerulean [sɪˈru:liən]: adj. 天蓝色的
cerulean gown: 天蓝色的晚礼服
be blithely ['blaɪðlɪ] unaware/ignorant of sth.: 傻傻不清楚,对什么毫无察觉
filter [ˈfɪltɚ] down: (事情的影响)逐渐扩散并扩大,渗入
trickle [ˈtrɪkəl]: vi. 一小股水流缓慢流淌(引申为move or flow slowly,缓慢移动)
fish it out: 把它像从水里捞出来一样,捡出来
clearance: n. 特价清仓
Zeigeist: 时代精神
❉♔❉♔❉♔
Do not fear to be eccentric in opinion,
for every opinion now accepted was once eccentric.
----Bertrand Russell
不要担心你的观点奇葩,
因为今天被广泛接受的观点都曾被认为奇葩。
---伯特兰•罗素

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