大数跨境

性别流动 / Gender fluidity

性别流动 / Gender fluidity Woolys
2017-01-13
1
导读:“More and more, it feels instinctively right to translate the same idea for both genders.”By Miuccia

It's time for us stop seeing gender, 

just see people and styles.

时尚风格不断在改变和创新。发现这几年的风格逐渐趋向模糊了吗?越来越多的男装设计师开始发布连女性都可以穿的服装 (或中性服装),越来越多的女性也开始穿起了男朋友或先生的衣服。身材瘦削的型男也逐渐穿上了女装。


Fashion style is constantly changing and innovating. Have you spot a trend that the lines between mens and womenswear are blurring these couple of years? More and more menswear designers have began publishing clothing lines that even women can wear (or you can call it "unisex clothing"), more and more women have also started wearing clothes which borrowed from their boyfriends or husbands. Not to mention men who are skinny yet trendy also wearing womenswear these days. 


女性一直都从男人的衣柜裡借取服裝(如伊夫·圣·洛朗的“吸菸裝”),尤其近几年流行的男友牛仔裤、宽大的针织衫与外套都成为女装的新宠。


Women have been borrowing from men’s wardrobes for decades (for example--Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’), so the baggy boyfriend jean, sloppy boyfriend knit and a slew of over-sized jackets became womenswear favourite.


由左至右 / from left to right: 

Gucci Spring 2017 Menswear / Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’ / Umit Benan Spring 2013 Menswear

从本质上讲,设计师们是为一群人制作服装,这一群人是不完全由年龄、种族或性别定义所组成。2015年秋冬季男装秀上,Gucci出场的第一个模特身着醒目的红色蝴蝶结上衣,留著飘逸长髮,让观众几乎不能分辨他是一个“他”。


They are, in essence, making clothes that are not solely marketed to one group of people defined by their age, race or sex. In Spring 2015, Gucci presented its first model, who dressed in a strikingly red bow blouse, had hair so long you could barely tell him was a 'he.'



GUCCI Fall 2015

虽说没人愿意回归上世纪80年代的穿著(譬如厚重的肩垫),男女装混搭穿仍然是个不错的选择。


Although nobody is willing to return to the styles of 80's (like giant shoulder pads), mixing and matching men's and women's wear is still a good choice.

What we’re seeing now is a seismic shift in fashion, a widening acceptance of a style with no boundaries, one that reflects the way young people dress.

                                                                                         By Ken Downing

                                                            Fashion Director of Neiman Marcus

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