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Step 8: Gambiered Guangdong Silk Production

Step 8: Gambiered Guangdong Silk Production 南沙文化社
2025-11-27
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导读:Issue 21:Step 8 of Gambiered Guangdong Silk Production: Hot Gambier Liquid Sealing

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Xiangyun Sha, originally known as "Liang Sha", specifically referred to a silk gauze (a lightweight, open-work fabric woven with the leno jacquard technique, commonly called "twisted-eye openwork") patterned with designs such as swastika motifs, victory flowers, walnut patterns, or checkboards. The gauze was then processed through sun-dyeing (a unique dyeing and finishing technique for Xiangyun Sha). Later, its meaning expanded to become the general term for "Liang Sha Chou", which encompasses both the open-work Liang gauze (Sha) and the plain-weave Liang satin (Chou). It is important to note that Liang Sha and Liang Chou are entirely different in terms of their weaving techniques.


XIANGYUNSHA SILK
NANSHA CULTURE


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Step 8 of Dyeing and Finishing: Second Hot Gambier Liquid Sealing and Sun-Drying


After the initial boiling and sun exposure, the gambiered gauze fabric proceeds to the eighth step, which involves sealing with hot gambier liquid followed by sun-drying. It is important to note that the liquid used for this sealing is the "second-used" gambier liquid. The temperature of the liquid must be maintained between 45°C and 50°C, a control entirely reliant on the workers' manual experience, with the standard being that it should not feel scalding to the touch.


What is "Second-used Liquid"?

Workers toss gambier roots into a crusher while simultaneously channeling water into the machine through a hose connected to a faucet near the stove. A large wooden barrel is placed at the pulp outlet, and once the crusher is activated, the rumbling motor drives the process, causing reddish-brown gambier juice along with residual dregs to flow into the barrel. After filling a barrel, workers pour the mixture into a sedimentation tank, adding a specific ratio of water—typically three barrels of dregs to one barrel of water.


The first-pressed gambier juice is left to soak for 24 hours before being filtered through a mesh screen into a filtration tank. At this stage, the larger gambier dregs are mostly removed, leaving behind a relatively viscous slurry. The remaining gambier liquid then undergoes further purification to eliminate fine, fibrous residues.


When the liquid storage tank is filled with gambier juice, it is transferred using buckets or pumps and filtered through bamboo sieves into the first filtration pool. This is known as the "First Extraction Liquid."


Water is then added to the sedimentation tank to further soak and filter the gambier juice. The resulting liquid is similarly pumped through bamboo sieves into the second filtration pool, producing what is referred to as the "Second Extraction Liquid."


This process continues sequentially, yielding the "Third Extraction Liquid," "Fourth Extraction Liquid" (also called residue water), and "Fifth Extraction Liquid." Finally, all these variants of gambier juice are channeled into large wooden barrels for storage and future use.


Among these, the Fourth Extraction Liquid has the highest concentration and is typically used for the initial dyeing of the raw silk fabric.


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If you're intrigued by the intricate beauty of Gambiered Guangdong Gauze and wish to explore it further, we have a curated space just for that. Simply leave a comment below or send us a private message with "NanshaXiangyunsha" to find your way into our WeChat cultural community.


Wang Xuan, Xiangyunsha Culture Researcher

NALANGE CHRONICLES
Editor-in-Chief: Wang Xuan
Photographer: Xiao Tie
Calligrapher: Zhi Ming
Costumes: WURAY MIRACLE, YUNSHA STAR RHYME
Dedicated to promoting Xiangyunsha silk as China’s intangible cultural heritage.

Email: 1399229194@qq.com


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