Definition and Process Features of Liangsha Chou (Gambiered Silk Fabric)

Liangsha Chou is a collective term for Liangsha (gambiered gauze) and Liangchou (gambiered plain silk). Both are made from Guangdong mulberry silk native yarn as the raw material and produced through the traditional sun-gambiering process. Liangsha is woven into a leno (gauze) structure using a jacquard hand loom. Because garments made from it rustle when moving, it was initially called "Xiangyunsha" (rustling gauze), later euphemistically changed to "Xiangyunsha" (fragrant cloud gauze) due to the homophone. Liangchou, on the other hand, is woven into a plain weave using a plain hand loom and is generally known as Heijiaochou (black silk fabric). It is worth noting that if the fabric is only sun-gambiered without mud-painting, the finished product appears red rather than black; this is called "Hong Liangsha Chou" (red gambiered fabric). This type was mostly used by poor peasants or fishermen, distinguishing it from the conventional black Liangsha Chou that undergoes mud-painting.

Unique Value and Cultural Symbolism of Liangsha Chou (Gambiered Silk Fabric)

Liangsha Chou is currently the world's only pure natural plant-dyed silk fabric, produced exclusively in Guangdong Province. It has a tight, soft, and smooth structure, is durable and long-lasting, and features quick-drying, wrinkle-free properties without the need for soap washing. Due to its relatively high production cost, garments made of Liangsha Chou have historically become a symbol of status and prestige, embodying both practical value and cultural significance.

Modern Production Evolution of Liangsha Chou

In the early 1970s, the Guangdong Provincial Department of Light Industry, in conjunction with the Provincial Department of Commerce, specifically formulated production standards for "plain grey gauze" (the base fabric) to regulate the production of Liangsha. Through production practice, the range of base fabrics was expanded. While plain grey gauze remained the main traditional base fabric for Liangsha, other materials such as "electric power silk" (a type of fine plain silk fabric) and fine-patterned silk brocade were also used for sun-gambiering. Broadly speaking, other degummed silk products can also be sun-gambiered, though the resulting quality may vary.

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