Dyeing & Finishing Step 5: Initial Silk Rolling
Rolling Procedure & Fabric Characteristics: After six rounds of liquid sprinkling and complete drying, the base fabric becomes stiff and rigid, crackling crisply like kraft paper at the slightest touch. At this stage, sun-drying workers commence the first rolling of the silk. This step is highly artistic, requiring workers to fold the fabric meticulously, akin to the bellows of an accordion. During the operation, workers first cut the stitched tacking threads, remove the bamboo nails, and extract the supporting bamboo rods. They then pinch the fabric approximately 40 cm from the rod sleeve, pull it back, fold it, and repeat this motion.
Folding Essentials and Final Form: During the folding process, workers must handle the fabric gently, carefully arranging the pleats while preventing permanent creases. The most critical aspect is avoiding breaking the now brittle and stiff silk fibers at the fold lines. With proficient and deft skill, the worker quickly creates uniform pleats across the entire bolt of base fabric. Next, the pleated fabric is folded in half at the center, and the entire bolt then resembles a large orange-red fan. Finally, the worker carries it into the dyehouse for storage, awaiting the next crucial step—sealing with Liangshui.
NALANGE CHRONICLES
Editor-in-Chief: Wang Xuan
Photographer: Xiao Tie
Calligrapher: Zhi Ming
Costumes: WURAY MIRACLE, YUNSHA STAR RHYME
Dedicated to promoting Xiangyunsha silk as China’s intangible cultural heritage.
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