Step 17 in Dyeing and Finishing: Softening by Rubbing
Process Details: As the seventeenth step in the dyeing and finishing process, "softening by rubbing" is a key manual procedure following "moisture spreading," aimed at further enhancing the softness and wearability of Gambiered Guangdong Silk.
Necessity of the Process: Issues remaining after "moisture spreading." Although "moisture spreading" introduces slight moisture to the fabric, improving its hardness and thickness to some extent, these characteristics still persist notably. In a dry state, the raw silk fabric retains a distinct crispness, with a texture close to that of "kraft paper." It still produces a characteristic "rustling" sound when rubbed. This condition is not conducive to subsequent cutting and sewing into garments and directly affects wearing comfort.
Objective and Name of the Process:
Objective: To manually rub the Gambiered Guangdong Silk, making its texture sufficiently soft to meet the requirements of clothing production and wear.
Name: This process is vividly referred to as "softening by rubbing" due to its core action.
Core Operations and Technical Requirements:
Manual Rubbing: Workers must repeatedly and meticulously rub the Gambiered Guangdong Silk by hand.
Control of Force – Key Difficulty:
Risk of Removing the Dye Paste: Excessive force may cause the key dioscorea cirrhosa (yam) paste layer adhered to the silk surface—which gives the fabric its color and distinctive characteristics—to be rubbed off or damaged.
Risk of Creasing: Excessive force can create permanent, irreversible creases or damage the silk surface.
Insufficient Force: If the rubbing force is too light, it cannot effectively break down the stiff structure between the fibers, failing to achieve the desired softening effect.
Excessive Force: If the rubbing force is too heavy, it carries the two major risks mentioned above.
Technical Requirement: Workers must possess extensive experience and a keen tactile sense to accurately and consistently control the force throughout the rubbing process. This ensures effective softening of the silk body while avoiding any form of damage.
Significance of the Process: "Softening by rubbing" is an indispensable step in endowing Gambiered Guangdong Silk with its final skin-friendly touch and good drape. It embodies the importance of artisan handcraft in traditional techniques, as well as the requirement for a deep understanding of material properties and precise control. This process serves as a crucial bridge connecting the earlier dyeing and finishing results with the ultimate comfort of the finished garment.
NALANGE CHRONICLES
Editor-in-Chief: Wang Xuan
Photographer: Xiao Tie
Calligrapher: Zhi Ming
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