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Step 3 of Gambiered Guangdong Silk Production: First sun-drying.

Step 3 of Gambiered Guangdong Silk Production: First sun-drying. 南沙文化社
2025-11-21
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导读:Issue 16: Knowledge Sharing on Gambiered Canton Silk

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Xiangyun Sha, originally known as "Liang Sha", specifically referred to a silk gauze (a lightweight, open-work fabric woven with the leno jacquard technique, commonly called "twisted-eye openwork") patterned with designs such as swastika motifs, victory flowers, walnut patterns, or checkboards. The gauze was then processed through sun-dyeing (a unique dyeing and finishing technique for Xiangyun Sha). Later, its meaning expanded to become the general term for "Liang Sha Chou", which encompasses both the open-work Liang gauze (Sha) and the plain-weave Liang satin (Chou). It is important to note that Liang Sha and Liang Chou are entirely different in terms of their weaving techniques.


XIANGYUNSHA SILK
NANSHA CULTURE


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Step 3 of Dyeing and Finishing: First Sun-Drying


Within the intricate production process of Gambiered Canton Silk, the "First Sun-Drying" is a core step in the dyeing and finishing stage. Its purpose is to allow the grey silk to dry evenly under the sun and fully absorb the essence of the gambier liquid, laying the foundation for subsequent steps. The specific operating procedure is as follows:


Removing Morning Dew: Grassy fields in the early morning are often covered with dew, which can adversely affect the drying effectiveness of the silk. Workers first use a specialized coarse hemp tow, approximately 80-90 cm wide and 1.2 meters long, to repeatedly drag it across the designated drying field. This absorbs the dew droplets from the grass blades, ensuring the ground is sufficiently dry.


Spreading the Grey Silk: Workers transport the grey silk saturated with gambier liquid to the sun-drying field. The field has been divided into sections according to the length of the silk pieces, with short wooden stakes spaced approximately the width of the silk apart fixed at one end. The workers slip the pre-reserved "rod sleeve" at one end of the silk onto a bamboo rod. They then secure the ends of this bamboo rod behind two adjacent stakes. Holding the other end of the silk, a worker walks forward, unrolling the bolt until the entire piece is fully spread out. Upon reaching the end, the worker must grip both ends of the rod sleeve firmly and pull the silk taut, applying even and moderate force to straighten and smooth it. This is a critical technical step: insufficient force will leave the silk surface uneven, while excessive or uneven force can strain the silk fibers or cause distortion after drying.


Sweeping to Remove Bubbles: After a batch of grey silk is secured, workers gently sweep a palm-leaf broom over the surface of each piece. The purpose is to remove small gambier liquid bubbles adhering to the silk. If these bubbles remain, they can leave marks after drying, affecting the final quality of the Gambiered Canton Silk. This process is called "Sao Se".


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"Kicking the Bamboos" to Prevent Curling: After sweeping is completed, workers place long bamboo poles transversely across the spread-out grey silk at intervals of approximately one meter. This prevents the silk from curling at the edges during the drying process. Under the intense sunlight, workers must periodically patrol the area and use their feet to gently nudge ("kick") these bamboo poles, causing them to shift slightly. The purpose of this is to avoid the poles leaving prolonged pressure marks on the silk surface. This dynamic adjustment action is vividly called "Ti Zhu" (Kicking the Bamboos).


Summary: The First Sun-Drying is a task combining physical effort and seasoned experience. Every step—from clearing the dew, precisely spreading and smoothing the silk, securing it firmly, and meticulously sweeping away bubbles, to dynamically adjusting the pressing poles—directly influences the uniformity of the silk's drying and ultimately affects the smoothness and colour of the final product. The workers' precise judgement regarding the amount of force required and their perfect timing are key to ensuring the high quality of the Gambiered Canton Silk.


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If you're intrigued by the intricate beauty of Gambiered Guangdong Gauze and wish to explore it further, we have a curated space just for that. Simply leave a comment below or send us a private message with "NanshaXiangyunsha" to find your way into our WeChat cultural community.
Wang Xuan, Xiangyunsha Culture Researcher

NALANGE CHRONICLES
Editor-in-Chief: Wang Xuan
Photographer: Xiao Tie
Calligrapher: Zhi Ming
Costumes: WURAY MIRACLE, YUNSHA STAR RHYME
Dedicated to promoting Xiangyunsha silk as China’s intangible cultural heritage.

Email: 1399229194@qq.com


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