Step 15 of Dyeing and Finishing: Spreading the Fabric
Detailed Explanation of the Fabric Spreading Process
In the intricate dyeing and finishing process of Xiangyunsha (gambiered silk), "spreading the fabric" is a crucial preparatory step before rolling the silk (typically the 16th step in the sequence). The primary objective of this step is to ensure the even distribution of the warp and weft threads of the Xiangyunsha fabric, ultimately achieving a smooth, flat, and well-stretched state for the entire bolt.
Core Tool: The Silk Table
Material and Structure: A specially crafted workbench made of thick firewood.
Dimensions: Approximately 1 meter long, 60 centimeters wide, and 80 centimeters high.
Design Features: The table surface and all edges are finely polished to a smooth, rounded finish to prevent damage to the delicate silk during operation.
Standard Operating Procedure:
Initial Preparation: The worker places the bolt of Xiangyunsha to be processed on the ground near the front legs of the silk table.
Spreading the End: The end of the Xiangyunsha (also known as gambiered silk) is lifted, fully unfolded, and spread evenly across the entire surface of the silk table.
Diagonal Smoothing:
The worker holds the two diagonal corners of the silk table surface (e.g., front-left and back-right, or front-right and back-left).
Simultaneously applying force: The left hand presses and smooths downward while the right hand lifts and smooths upward, moving diagonally across the fabric.
Pulling and Setting: When the hands reach the diagonal ends of the table (the opposite corners of the starting points), the fabric is pulled outward firmly to stretch and set it in place.
Shifting the Fabric: The smoothed section of fabric is pulled off the silk table and neatly folded or arranged.
Repetition: The next section of the Xiangyunsha bolt is spread onto the table, and steps 3–5 (diagonal smoothing, pulling, and shifting) are repeated.
Completion of the Bolt: This process continues until the entire bolt of Xiangyunsha has been treated.
Reverse Processing (Optional): To enhance uniformity, after the entire bolt has been spread, it is often reversed, and the spreading process is repeated from the beginning in the opposite direction.
Core Function of the Process:
Through repeated smoothing, diagonal stretching, and pulling, the "spreading the fabric" step effectively adjusts and aligns the warp and weft thread structure of the Xiangyunsha. It eliminates potential wrinkles and uneven tension, laying the foundation for the subsequent rolling of the silk and ensuring the final product presents a smooth, flat appearance.
NALANGE CHRONICLES
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