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A Century of Vicissitudes in the Xiangyunsha Dyeing and Finishing Industry | Nansha Xiangyunsha 35

A Century of Vicissitudes in the Xiangyunsha Dyeing and Finishing Industry | Nansha Xiangyunsha 35 南沙文化社
2026-02-08
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导读:Issue 35:The Rise and Fall of Shiqiao Liang Cloth: A Century of Vicissitudes in the Xiangyunsha Dyei


Xiangyun Sha, originally known as "Liang Sha", specifically referred to a silk gauze (a lightweight, open-work fabric woven with the leno jacquard technique, commonly called "twisted-eye openwork") patterned with designs such as swastika motifs, victory flowers, walnut patterns, or checkboards. The gauze was then processed through sun-dyeing (a unique dyeing and finishing technique for Xiangyun Sha). Later, its meaning expanded to become the general term for "Liang Sha Chou", which encompasses both the open-work Liang gauze (Sha) and the plain-weave Liang satin (Chou). It is important to note that Liang Sha and Liang Chou are entirely different in terms of their weaving techniques.


XIANGYUNSHA SILK
NANSHA CULTURE



薯莨布成衣|定制:吾瑞奇迹


Historical Overview of the Xiangyunsha Dyeing and Finishing Industry

I. Origins and Development (Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China Era)

  • Qing Dynasty: Small-scale dyeing workshops and itinerant cloth dyers emerged in the major market towns within the county. The gambiered cloth sun-drying and cloth bleaching industries in Shiqiao became trades with a significant number of practitioners. A local specialty of Shiqiao was "Shiqiao Liang Cloth" (distinct from the silk-based Xiangyunsha of Foshan/Nanhai). Its characteristics included:

    • Made from white calico as the base material, dyed with gambier juice; also known as "bamboo cloth."

    • Low-cost, wear-resistant, suitable for laborers.

  • Early 19th Century: The gambiered cloth sun-drying industry had already appeared in Shiqiao.

  • Around 1930 (Peak Period):

    • Number of Shiqiao manufacturers: Over 120.

    • Practitioners: Over 1,000.

    • Annual output: 600,000 bolts of gambiered cloth.

  • Occupation Period (Early Anti-Japanese War): The industry suffered severe damage and declined sharply.

II. Post-War Recovery and Turning Point (Mid-to-Late 1940s)

  • Post-War Recovery: The number of manufacturers recovered to 60. Gambiered cloth sun-drying factories appeared in villages like Shawai and Luojia, as well as in areas like Conghua, Huaxian, and Nanhai.

  • Output Peak: In the late 1940s, annual output once reached a high of 1 million bolts.

  • Industry Turning Point (Late 1940s):

    • Shift in Market Demand: Gambiered cloth in black-blue and ochre colors fell out of fashion.

    • Consequence: Overproduction led to operational difficulties and widespread closures of manufacturers. By 1949, only fewer than 50 manufacturers remained in Shiqiao.


III. Adjustments and Conclusion in the Early Post-Establishment Period (Early 1950s – 1964)

  • Government Support (1951): The government supported revival through measures such as loans and placing processing/manufacturing orders. There were now over 70 combined manufacturers in the bleaching and gambiered cloth sun-drying industries, employing over 700 workers.

  • 1952: Formed into a cooperative association, implementing joint purchasing and marketing while maintaining independent accounting.

  • 1956 (Public-Private Partnership): Transformed into a Public-Private Partnership Gambiered Cloth Sun-Drying Factory. Merged with the former Datong Dyeing Factory. Expanded its business scope to include bleaching, dyeing/printing, and gambiered cloth sun-drying.

  • 1964: Sales of gambiered cloth continued to decline, ultimately leading to a complete cessation of production.

IV. Transition and Modernization Development (From the 1960s – 1991)

  • Initial Transition (Early 1960s): Focus shifted primarily to the dyeing and finishing industry. Initially processed low-grade fabrics (e.g., Da Cheng Blue, Grass Green, Wool Blue Slate Black cloth, etc.).

  • 1968 (Renaming and Technical Transformation): The Sun-Drying Factory was renamed Panyu Dyeing and Finishing Factory. Underwent technical renovation: established a dyeing and finishing production line capable of processing fabrics with a width under 120 cm. Environmental measures: built wastewater treatment equipment capable of purifying 200 cubic meters of industrial effluent per hour.

  • 1986 (Joint Venture and Upgrade): Panyu Dyeing and Finishing Factory, the Foreign Trade Textiles Import and Export Company, and Hong Kong's Weiye Industrial Company jointly invested to establish "Panda Dyeing and Finishing Factory". Total investment: 10 million Hong Kong dollars. Introduced equipment: 20 sets/pieces of advanced imported machinery.

  • 1991 (Scale and Benefits): The two factories (Panyu Dyeing and Finishing Factory, Panda Dyeing and Finishing Factory) had a combined workforce of 350 employees. Annual dyeing and finishing capacity: 10 million meters of various fabrics. Annual output value: 98 million yuan. Taxes and profits: over 5 million yuan.



If you're intrigued by the intricate beauty of Gambiered Guangdong Gauze and wish to explore it further, we have a curated space just for that. Simply leave a comment below or send us a private message with "NanshaXiangyunsha" to find your way into our WeChat cultural community.

Wang Xuan, Xiangyunsha Culture Researcher

NALANGE CHRONICLES
Editor-in-Chief: Wang Xuan
Photographer: Xiao Tie
Calligrapher: Zhi Ming
Costumes: WURAY MIRACLE, YUNSHA STAR RHYME
Dedicated to promoting Xiangyunsha silk as China’s intangible cultural heritage.

Email: 1399229194@qq.com


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