Step 4 of Dyeing and Finishing: Spraying Gambier Juice Six Times
(The "洒莨水" process is also known as "洒耳" – "Spraying the Ears".)
Preparation and Spraying:
The base silk, which has undergone initial immersion dyeing and sun-drying, is prepared. Workers use a specially designed sprinkling barrel for the spraying operation. The sprinkling barrel is a wooden bucket equipped with a long nozzle, a handle on the barrel body, and a crossbar to secure the spray rod. The spray rod extends diagonally upward from the bottom of the barrel, measuring approximately 60 to 70 cm in length, with a nozzle attached at the tip. The size of the wooden barrel is designed to allow workers to lift it comfortably with one hand.
Operation Method:
The worker holds the handle with one hand while supporting the bottom of the barrel near the nozzle with the other. By tilting the barrel and swaying it from side to side, the "second-pass gambier juice" (a secondary liquid extracted from the gambier plant) inside is sprayed out through the nozzle. The spray can reach a height of over 2 meters and a distance of 2 to 3 meters.
Even Treatment:
Once the gambier juice is sprayed onto the silk surface, the worker must immediately use a palm-leaf broom or a drag broom to evenly spread the liquid and remove any surface bubbles.
Repetitive Process:
Once the silk surface has dried, the steps of spraying and evenly spreading are repeated. This entire process must be carried out six times, which is why workers vividly refer to it as "Spraying the Ears."
Effect and Purpose of "Spraying Gambier Juice":
During this process, the front side of the base silk receives significantly more gambier juice than the reverse side. This operation intentionally creates a noticeable color difference between the front and back of the silk, which is one of the unique and sought-after visual effects of gambiered Guangdong silk.
"Sealing with Gambier Juice" Process:
After completing the "Spraying Gambier Juice" step and achieving the color difference, the subsequent "Sealing with Gambier Juice" process is carried out. Unlike "Spraying Gambier Juice," the "Sealing with Gambier Juice" process results in roughly the same dyeing effect on both the front and back sides of the base silk.
What is "Second-Pass Liquor"?
"Second-pass liquor" refers to gambier dye liquid of a specific concentration used in the dyeing and finishing process of gambiered Guangdong silk. Its preparation involves multiple stages of filtering and soaking, with the specific steps as follows:
Initial Pressing and Liquid Storage: After the gambier tubers are pressed for juice and initially filtered, the liquid is channeled into a storage pool.
First Filtration ("First-Pass Liquor"): When the storage pool is full, the gambier juice is pumped into the first filtration pool. A bamboo sieve is mounted over this pool; as the juice flows through the sieve, it undergoes a second filtration before entering the pool. The liquid obtained after this filtration stage is called "first-pass liquor."
Second Soaking and Filtration ("Second-Pass Liquor"): The residue left from the "first-pass liquor" filtration (or alternatively, fresh gambier residue) is mixed with water and placed in a sedimentation tank for soaking. The liquid obtained from this soaking is then pumped into the second filtration pool. The juice flows through a bamboo sieve mounted over the trough for another round of filtration. The liquid obtained after this filtration stage is the "second-pass liquor."
Subsequent Dilution ("Third-Pass Liquor," "Fourth-Pass Liquor"/"Residue Water," "Fifth-Pass Liquor"): Similarly, the residue can be repeatedly mixed with water, soaked, and filtered multiple times. The resulting liquids are sequentially termed "third-pass liquor," "fourth-pass liquor" (also called "residue water"), and "fifth-pass liquor."
Collection and Storage: All the filtered gambier liquids of different concentrations (first-pass, second-pass, third-pass, fourth-pass, and fifth-pass liquor) are separately collected in large wooden barrels for later use.
Concentration Levels and Uses of Gambier Liquor
Difference in Concentration: During the multiple rounds of soaking and filtration, the concentration of the gambier juice decreases progressively. The "first-pass liquor" has the highest concentration, followed by successively lower concentrations in the "second-pass liquor," "third-pass liquor," and so on.
Key Concentration Level: The "fourth-pass liquor" (residue water) is the gambier liquid with the highest concentration among all the levels.
Typical Use: The "fourth-pass liquor," possessing the highest concentration, is typically used for the first dyeing process of the base silk.
NALANGE CHRONICLES
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