爱慕时尚工厂荣获德国设计大奖- 大数跨境

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爱慕时尚工厂荣获德国设计大奖

中国服装论坛

2017-11-30

导读：2017年10月20日，由德国设计委员会颁发的德国设计大奖公布了2018年度获奖名单，爱慕时尚工厂获得优秀交流建筑设计奖奖项。

2017年10月20日，由德国设计委员会颁发的德国设计大奖（German Design Award）公布了2018年度获奖名单，爱慕时尚工厂获得优秀交流建筑设计奖（Excellent Communications Design—Architecture）奖项，颁奖仪式将于2018年2月在德国举行。

On 20th of October, 2017, the German Design Award, held by the German Design Council, published the list of winners for 2018, Aimer Lingerie Factory, among them, received the Excellent Communications Design—Architecture Award. The awarding ceremony will be held in Germany in February, 2018.

爱慕时尚工厂颠覆了“工厂”的传统模式，以面向全社会开放休闲、文化和购物设施为基础，在为消费者提供消费环境的同时潜移默化的改变和引领着时尚的生活方式。

Revolutionizing the traditional concept of "factory", the Aimer project includes recreational, cultural as well as retail facilities open to public to embrace visitors. More importantly it therefore shapes the Aimer brand and its “fashion way of life”.

爱慕时尚工厂用地5.3万平方米，由Crossboundaries建筑设计事务所设计，项目主要负责人为蓝冰可（BinkeLenhardt）和董灏，通过设计的整体性、功能性、共享性及可呼吸性，在满足生产、技术、物流、商业购物与文化休闲多种功能的同时，展现企业实力，增强品牌形象。

Covering an area of 53000 m², Aimer Lingerie Factory, was designed by Crossboundaries, with the responsible partners BinkeLenhardt and DONG Hao. Through the four key ingredients of the building, unity, functionality, connectivity and breath, the design symbolizes the company's strength and enhances its image, while the complex satisfies the needs for production, R&D, logistics, shopping and recreation

“德国设计大奖由德国设计委员会授予，机构聚集了德国品牌和设计领域专家。奖项由最高权威机关委任，代表德国设计行业最新发展动态。1953年在德国联邦议院（德国议会下议院）的提议下设立该奖项，在此基础上，议院也不断对行业各个范畴提供支持，目标在于通过设计延续并增加品牌价值。而后，德国设计委员会成为世界设计领域中，在交流和品牌管理方面的领先竞争中心之一。成员阵容强大，囊括各大设计师和设计机构，包含众多著名品牌的品牌总监及负责人。”

来源于官方网站：http://www.german-design-award.com/en.html

“The German Design Council, the expert for brand and design in Germany, bestows the German Design Award. Commissioned by the highest authority to represent new developments in the German design industry. Established on the initiative of the German Bundestag (the lower house of German parliament) as a foundation in 1953, it supports the industry in all matters consistently aimed at generating an added brand value through design. As a result, the German Design Council is one of the world’s leading competence centers for communication and brand management in the field of design. The exclusive network of foundation members includes in addition to designers and design associations, in particular the owners and brand directors of numerous renowned companies.”

From the website: http://www.german-design-award.com/en.html

而提名环节之后，国际化评审团经过重重评选，将奖项颁给“真正对德国和国际天际线带来突出和前沿贡献”的项目。

Following a nomination process an international jury guarantees to only award those projects“that truly represent pioneering contributions to the German and international design landscape.”

爱慕时尚工厂设计工作于2004年启动，于2014年正式落成使用。其设计通过一个单体外立面囊括不同功能区，呈现出整体性；良好合理的设计最大化建筑使用功能；从建筑外部置入到内部的露台，成为内部景观的同时，提供沟通交流的平台，从而实现共享性；使建筑容纳空气、阳光与植物，从而达到可呼吸性。

The Aimer project, started in 2004, was officially completed in 2014. The design reflects unity by gathering different functions in one stand-alone volume; functionality is maximized through efficient design; an inner platform, that cuts across the outdoor landscape through the center of the building, realizes connectivity byenriching the natural landscape while aiding communication. Air, light and greenery reach inside the building, bringing breath into its core.

爱慕时尚工厂自建成以来，在国内和亚洲建筑设计行业脱颖而出，荣获多项认可，先后获得中国建设工程鲁班奖（2014-2015年）以表彰其工程出色、2015北京市第18届优秀工程设计奖一等奖、2015亚洲建筑大奖荣誉提名奖，2016中国建筑学会建筑创作奖银奖（公共建筑类）等。国际奖项包括2016Architizer A+大奖最终入围，2017年受邀参选德国设计大奖，获优秀交流建筑设计奖，也意味着爱慕时尚工厂在国际设计行业受到权威认可。

Since its establishment, Aimer Lingerie Factory has stood out in the domestic and Asian architectural industry, winning a couple of awards including the China Construction Engineering Lu Ban Award (2014-2015) for its excellent construction, the 1st prize of the 18th Beijing Exploration & Design Excellent Project Design Award in 2015, the Honorable Mention of the Arcasia Awards for Architecture in 2015 and the Architectural Creation Award (Silver) of the Institute of Chinese Architects in 2016. The Aimer project was also internationally recognized as Architizer A+ Award Finalist in 2016 and is now winner of the German Design Award 2018 in Excellent Communication Design in Architecture, gaining recognition by an authority within an international design industry.

2004年，爱慕集团董事长张荣明先生与刚刚从纽约普瑞特艺术学院完成建筑学硕士学业回国的蓝冰可、董灏见面，并表达了未来要建成的爱慕时尚工厂并非传统意义的工厂，要彰显爱慕的特性——时尚。除了爱慕的目标外，董灏对工厂也有自己的见解，他认为，多数工厂单一从实用主义、生产主义出发，以经济简朴为标准，较少考虑人性化、美观等。事实上，工厂的概念应该被重新定义，好的工厂应该体现企业的价值观，包含企业对产品的看法、对生产的态度、对世界的看法等。

In 2004, BinkeLenhardt and DONG Hao, who had just come back to China with Master Degrees from Pratt Institute, New York, met with Mr. Zhang Rongming, the president of Aimer, who expressed his ambition of building an unconventional Aimer Lingerie Factory that reveals the feature of Aimer and represents fashion. Apart from this goal, DONG Hao also expressed his thinking about factories. He believed that many factories, due to a pragmatic and production driven design approach, are designed to be economic and simple, hence they lack human-friendliness and beauty. In fact, he believed that the very concept of a factory needed to be redefined. A “good” factory should reflect the company values, which includes the firm’s attitude towards the product and production and last but not least towards the world.

建筑可以成为企业价值观的体现，作为设计方，蓝冰可和董灏以及设计团队理解了爱慕的需求，将各自独立的想法逐渐融合，并通过建筑语言将爱慕的诉求翻译出来，表达爱慕对人的关怀、对时尚的激情、对科技的追求以及企业实力。将这些价值观通过建筑表达出来，也使得大众对于品牌不仅有产品使用感受，还能够认识爱慕创造美、传递爱的企业使命，从而提升品牌形象。至于后续在工厂举办的新品发布会、宴会、会员沙龙等区别于传统工厂的活动，在董灏看来，是建筑传递企业价值观的结果，同时也更进一步的增加了品牌附加价值。

The architecture can represent the company value. As designers, BinkeLenhardt and DONG Hao with their team gathered and merged ideas based on the understanding of Aimer's needs, before translating it into an architectural language, expressing Aimer's care for people, passion for fashion, pursuit of technology and showcase of strength. The representation of those values through architecture extends the public brand awareness beyond the product using experience, it enhances Aimer's mission of creating beauty and spreading happiness, values that reflect the brand image. Additional unconventional factory activities happening at the complex, such as product release conferences, banquets, VIP saloons and fashion shows convey further the company’s key values, which increases the added brand value, Binke points out.

设计之初，建筑师对爱慕的产品进行仔细的研究，将内衣的主要材料——蕾丝的透视感运用在建筑和周围景观中，例如露台线条和大厅地板源自内衣面料的柔软感。

Carefully studying Aimer's products, the architects transferred the sense of opacity and overlay of a lace—the main material of lingerie--onto the building and its surroundings. The curved lines on the communal deck and the lobby floor for example were inspired by the softness of lingerie material.

爱慕时尚工厂的立面设计灵感也是从内衣面料受到启发，并将这一启发缜密的转移到建筑上。不同区域的使用功能对光照的不同需求，办公区和生产厂房需要大量自然光，面料易受光照影响，因此库房应避免大量日光。在设计中考虑到这一点，通过外立面玻璃材料及木质材料的拼接、过渡，满足不同区域对日光的不同需求。

The inspiration of facade design also came from the abstract interpretation of lingerie material and was carefully translated onto the building. Different functional areas have varied lighting needs: the office and production areas require good natural lighting, while storage and distribution do not, as fabric should not be exposed to sunlight. Having considered this, the façade responds to the functions behind with glass or solid panel and address directly the various needs.

在Crossboundaries看来，建筑与内衣的逻辑相同。内衣根据伦理、社会认知、身体需求等多种角度重塑和保护身体，将被认为需要展示的部分尽情展示，同时将应该被遮挡的部位遮挡。建筑亦是如此，时尚工厂根据不同的使用功能，通过材料变化实现不同区域室内空间与室外的互通，其外立面的可视效果同样反映了包裹和裸露的平衡。

In Crossboundaries’ point of view, the building shares the same logic as lingerie. Lingerie reshapes and protects the body, showing and hiding certain parts according to ethics, social cognition, body needs, etc., so does the building. The Aimer Lingerie Factory achieves connectivity between inner and outer spaces in different areas through function-based change of materials. The visual effect of its façade also reflects the balance between opacity and coverage.

设计爱慕时尚工厂的十年，既是经济腾飞的十年，也是爱慕高速发展的十年。这期间，伴随着外部环境及企业需求的变化，设计不断完善，蓝冰可和董灏认为，这是一个双方都很开心的过程。爱慕时尚工厂是蓝冰可来到中国后设计的第一个大型建筑，当时对中国文化的陌生并不影响整体策划设计，因为在她看来，爱慕时尚工厂使用的是全球化设计理念，能够适应企业的未来发展。但之后随着对中国文化的深入了解，她认识到中国的“单位”概念——将不同的领域连接到一起，设计出一座统一的复合建筑，这也是优秀交流建筑设计奖所认可的创造点。

During the ten years of the development of this complex, Aimer's brand and product range rapidly developed and the Chinese market experienced an enormous economic growth. Through those years, the design was gradually refined and adjusted along with the evolvement of external conditions and the company's needs, which, Binke and DONG Hao believe, was a happy process for both parties.The Aimer factory was the first larger scale building for Binke after arriving in China. Back then, her unfamiliarity with Chinese culture introduced a new outlook to overall design, as she believed that Aimer Lingerie Factory was imbedded with globalized design concepts, which would be adaptable to company's future progress. With a deep understanding of the Chinese concept--"danwei"--a working and living unit, the architects reacted to its segmented approach with a unified, compound building that linked different fields together. The Excellent Communications Design—Architecture Award is testament to their innovative approach.

走进爱慕时尚工厂大堂，通透明亮的环境以及由89 根白色钢管组成的“爱慕时尚森林”，使时尚工厂之旅的起点充满简约时尚气息。透过“丛林”掩映，隐约可见爱慕商店、博物馆及三楼餐厅。

The journey into the building starts in the lobby, where the visitor is welcomed in an open and generous space from where, through an inserted forest of white steles (altogether 89), the Aimer store, museum and restaurant in the 3rdfloor can be spotted.

爱慕学院位于时尚工厂一层，具有会议中心相关配套设施，展现出爱慕人不断自我超越的持续奋斗状态。本着“有爱、厚德、分享、超越”的精神，爱慕学院自主研发课程体系、培养讲师团队，为爱慕人提供系统培训，是爱慕人才培养和输出的知识平台。

Situated on the ground floor, Aimers own Academy in form of a conference center with meeting and gathering areas is aiming to constantly train and encourage self-improvement of the employees. With the spirit of the brand (love, virtue, sharing and progress) the Academy serves as a knowledge platform for talent cultivation and output through systematic training, based on its self-designed course system and private lecturers.

在“爱慕时尚森林”背后的大堂南侧有一间500多平方米的工厂店，汇集爱慕集团旗下所有品牌产品，顾客能够获得全家人、一站式内衣服饰购物解决方案，并享受专业、温馨的服务，以及家一般愉悦、轻松、舒适的购物环境和氛围。

Behind the steles, in the southern area of the lobby a generous factory outlet is welcoming the visitor to shop and experience the whole palette of Aimer products. The compound indulges customers with one-stop lingerie shopping solutions for the whole family, professional and warm service, and homely pleasant, relaxed and comfortable environment.

从“爱慕时尚森林”中拾级而上，在工厂店上方可见一方较为独立的建筑空间，这便是爱慕内衣博物馆。浓缩时代特点的文胸排列开来，展示了爱慕内衣及文胸设计的具体变迁，折射出百年文胸史的点点滴滴。

Almost as an independent volume tucked into the lobby behind the white steles and above the store is the Aimer Museum. Classic lingerie is on exhibit, explaining the development of Aimer’s underwear and bra design in particular and in context to its development of history.

一件件爱慕经典产品，是爱慕发展二十余年的掠影，蕴含着爱慕对内衣历史文化的崇敬、对设计制作的追求、对时尚潮流的解析、对生活方式的诠释；模杯、面料、蕾丝……都反映出爱慕在设计研发等领域的不断深入和超越成果。

The display of diverse items introduces the development over the last two decades and is reflecting Aimer's deep understanding of and respect to lingerie, its pursuit in design and interpretation of lifestyle and detail knowledge in regard to fabric, lace and cup sizes.

走出博物馆继续来到三楼，爱慕餐厅视野开阔，俯瞰大堂，提供了时尚优雅的休闲餐饮环境，一杯香醇咖啡，一壶浓香好茶，亦或是美味的菜肴，满足味蕾，点缀悠闲时光。

Carrying on through the museum and climbing up further the visitor arrives at the Aimer Restaurant on the 3rdfloor, from which he can oversee the lobby and is welcomed in an elegant setting for a recreational dining experience, also offering tea or coffee.

而后，拥有先进设备的实验室呈现内衣诞生的全过程，向游客介绍生产车间、裁剪车间、原材料库、物流中心立体库的功能，传递爱慕“创造美·传递爱”的企业使命。

The advance lab then allows insight into the manufacturing process, explaining the functions of production department, cutting workshop, raw material area and distribution center to the visitor, concluding here in the mission of the brand Aimer.

时尚大气的环境，充满设计感的建筑，爱慕时尚工厂颠覆传统工厂的模式，不仅融生产、技术、物流、商业购物与文化休闲等多项功能于一体，还创新地将爱慕所引领的时尚生活方式贯穿其中，传递“爱”与“美”。

The impressive, strong atmosphere of the complex embraces the bold design of the architecture. Aimer Lingerie Factory revolutionizes the traditional factory setting by merging production, technology, distribution, shopping and recreation functions under one roof. The architecture creatively integrates Aimer's idea of the fashion lifestyle, delivering "happiness" and "beauty".